If your not certain it's pre-oiled good enough, you could also disable the fuel pump so it won't function & have the injectors wet the cylinder walls down & so the engine won't start.
Then crank the engine with the starter motor, to make sure the oil pump is primed & to build oil pressure.
Don't crank for more than 15 seconds, so you don't over heat the starter motor.
This will do a pretty good job of building oil pressure & pre-oiling the engine.
If you do it with the spark plugs removed, the starter will have an easier time of it, will build oil pressure quicker, as it'll crank the engine over faster.
If your really persnckety, you could squirt a little Marvel Oil into each cylinder before cranking the engine as it'll help lube the rings before starting the engine.
Replace the spark plugs, then re-enable the fuel pump & start it up.
More engine pre-oiling thoughts for consideration.
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99 Ranger 4dr 4x2 4.0L 5spd auto 3.55L/S Payload pkg2 tow pkg
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The problems with just turning the engine over to prime it is you will wipe all the break in lube off your cam. If you really want to do it this way do it before you install the lifters and lash the valves.
-Johnboy
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Pete in San Ramon
2005 F250 6.0 Lariat 4x4 CC Short bed (stock)
1997 F250 7.3 XLT 4X4 Reg. cab (stock)
1986 F250 6.9 XLT Gone but not forgotten
Well got a scare, I was running the drill and the socket came out of the extension, Thought the socket lodged onto the oil pump shaft be cause I JB weld the socket to the extension, but the weld did not hold, I said a small prayer to the big man and got a new extension to try and retrieve the socket, well it came out. Thank the Lord! Pump should be primed!!
Were you running the drill in reverse? The one's I've primed (pre-lubed, actually) had counterclockwise distributer rotation. It takes a good bit of torque and I burnt up the first drill I tried to use for this. Now I use a speed handle taped to a 6-pt deep socket and let one of my sons turn it.
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