1972 Ford Truck Carb Questions
#1
1972 Ford Truck Carb Questions
So I picked up a 2 barrel carburetor of a 1972 Ford Truck, most likely an F250. Has a tag and everything, this is a Motorcraft 2100-D (D2TF JB). No electric choke or anything like that. So I'm wondering if I can run the carb with choke permanently open? Also is there an electric choke conversion that I can buy, if so where is it? I can't seem to find one. Also what are the adjustments. I seem to have 2 needle valves to adjust and one other. Thanks for any help you guys can provide. Here are some pics:
#2
That carburetor would have originally come with an automatic choke, but it has been removed. If you check out your first picture, you can see the three mounting studs where the choke housing assembly was once attached. One of the studs has two holes - one is threaded for the mounting stud screw, and the other is a manifold vacuum passage. When the choke housing is in place, that passage passes vacuum to the inside of the choke housing, to cycle warm air through the choke stove. You can also see the partially-missing fast idle linkage in the first picture.
If you run the carburetor like that, you'll have a vacuum leak due to the open choke housing mounting stud. Like I said, that carburetor is missing some hardware and is not supposed to be like that. To answer your other question, you'll have cold-starting problems running without a choke. But that's not your primary problem at this point.
To solve the problem, you'll have to pull the choke housing from another carburetor. Note that I'm not just talking about the black choke cap - the entire metal housing by which the choke cap mounts is gone. Just an FYI, the accelerator pump arm rod is missing as well. The rod by which you have the ID tag fixed is not supposed to swing free like that. Let's get that stuff straightened out, and then we can move on to adjustments because the carburetor can't be run the way it is now.
If you run the carburetor like that, you'll have a vacuum leak due to the open choke housing mounting stud. Like I said, that carburetor is missing some hardware and is not supposed to be like that. To answer your other question, you'll have cold-starting problems running without a choke. But that's not your primary problem at this point.
To solve the problem, you'll have to pull the choke housing from another carburetor. Note that I'm not just talking about the black choke cap - the entire metal housing by which the choke cap mounts is gone. Just an FYI, the accelerator pump arm rod is missing as well. The rod by which you have the ID tag fixed is not supposed to swing free like that. Let's get that stuff straightened out, and then we can move on to adjustments because the carburetor can't be run the way it is now.
#4
No; as I clearly explained in my previous post, that carburetor has a vacuum leak because the choke housing is gone, and the choke plate has no mechanism to close. The vacuum leak will make it difficult to tune, and the free-swinging choke and fast idle linkage will make it hard (if not impossible) to start and it won't idle during startup. Starting an engine without a choke is a good way to blow a power valve. As I stated before, you're missing crucial hardware that must be replaced.
#5
#6
While the choke is engaged, the motor must maintain a higher idle to compensate for the enriched combustion chemistry. There is a mechanical linkage that raises the idle of the engine while the choke is engaged.
Most 2100's and 2150's should have what you need. Some very early model 2100's (maybe as far back as the Autolite 2100's) may have a choke pulloff piston that pre-dates the air-horn mounted pulloff you have, so pretty much any 2-barrel from the 70's should work (I can't make any gaurantees though).
Here is some useful background information on Motorcraft chokes:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post6939116
#7
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#9
sorry for the hijack........
Im looking at moving to san diego sometime next year, whats the deal with getting these trucks registered down there? up here in WA we dont have to pass smog test or any of that so the 74 is good to go. am i going to have any issues with it when i make the move? it had smog at one point in its life but now has a 5.0 roller motor in it and hogh flow exhast with no emissions to speak of......
chris
Im looking at moving to san diego sometime next year, whats the deal with getting these trucks registered down there? up here in WA we dont have to pass smog test or any of that so the 74 is good to go. am i going to have any issues with it when i make the move? it had smog at one point in its life but now has a 5.0 roller motor in it and hogh flow exhast with no emissions to speak of......
chris
Anyways, I found a proper and complete motorcraft carb, with everything. surprisingly enough of a 1968 Ford Galaxie, same size and everything, just a few minor differences, here's some pics:
#10
That post you quoted isn't part of this thread. Whoever that guy is isn't going to see what you wrote.
I don't think that carburetor is a Motorcraft 2100, it looks like an Autolite 2100. They're essentially the same thing (Ford sold Autolite and created Motorcraft to replace it), but the two era of carburetors have subtle differences. Mainly the one I mentioned in my third post - your old one has an air-horn-mounted pulloff, while the new one does not. If memory serves me correctly, the pulldown in the new carburetor is intergral to the choke housing and uses a vacuum piston. As such, I'm not sure this one is going to work. Try it and see. I did say to look for one from the 70's...
I don't think that carburetor is a Motorcraft 2100, it looks like an Autolite 2100. They're essentially the same thing (Ford sold Autolite and created Motorcraft to replace it), but the two era of carburetors have subtle differences. Mainly the one I mentioned in my third post - your old one has an air-horn-mounted pulloff, while the new one does not. If memory serves me correctly, the pulldown in the new carburetor is intergral to the choke housing and uses a vacuum piston. As such, I'm not sure this one is going to work. Try it and see. I did say to look for one from the 70's...
#11
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/choke1.jpg
It starts like it's fuel injected and runs plenty good after that. ;)
There have been a couple other guys on FTE with the same
choke setup I've got one was in the Dakotas and the other in
Michigan and claimed the same things. YMMV?
I have a collection of different sizes of shotgun shot that sure
enough has come in handy when working on carburetors. ;)
Alvin in AZ
It starts like it's fuel injected and runs plenty good after that. ;)
There have been a couple other guys on FTE with the same
choke setup I've got one was in the Dakotas and the other in
Michigan and claimed the same things. YMMV?
I have a collection of different sizes of shotgun shot that sure
enough has come in handy when working on carburetors. ;)
Alvin in AZ
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