what really grinds my gears....
#1
what really grinds my gears....
Let me start off by saying, i love all fords, my whole family owns fords, my grandfather bought the first f-150s and 250s when they were first made way back in the day(cant remember the year).
what grinds my gears is when people (in particular) 7.3 owners bash on 6.0s, i own a 6.0 and 7.3, both awesome trucks, with their own faults a weaknesses.
I love both my trucks to death and maintenace the hell outta them. My 6.0 has always started, never have i had a no start, sure i deleted my egr valve and cooler, but the originals ones failed at over 100k, not bad if you ask me. Im am still running on the factory head gaskets and bolts, with no problems, i've had a bad turbo at 105k, one bad ICP sensor and a bad altenator, not bad for over 110k miles.
My 7.3 has treated me well also, but not so good in the last few months, i've had several no starts due to a bad sensor in the shifter (didnt show that the truck was in park). several bad altentors, bad shifts (trans is probably going out). She leaks oil pretty bad, as soon as it rolls 200k its going to a ford diesel tech to looked over and fix anything wrong.
I cant remember everything off the top of my head. My 7.3 has been towed twice, 6.0 never. Im not trying to start a fight between which truck is better, im just real tired of all of us blue oval owners and lovers fighting over which motor is better and bashing on the other. we should all look on the bright side, we drive built tough trucks.
So basically, stop bashing on my 6.0, i love both my trucks to death and all this complaining about the 6.0 being a terrible motor is wrong, its a great motor and i love it, as much as my 7.3. they both get the job done, and they tow like hell.
what grinds my gears is when people (in particular) 7.3 owners bash on 6.0s, i own a 6.0 and 7.3, both awesome trucks, with their own faults a weaknesses.
I love both my trucks to death and maintenace the hell outta them. My 6.0 has always started, never have i had a no start, sure i deleted my egr valve and cooler, but the originals ones failed at over 100k, not bad if you ask me. Im am still running on the factory head gaskets and bolts, with no problems, i've had a bad turbo at 105k, one bad ICP sensor and a bad altenator, not bad for over 110k miles.
My 7.3 has treated me well also, but not so good in the last few months, i've had several no starts due to a bad sensor in the shifter (didnt show that the truck was in park). several bad altentors, bad shifts (trans is probably going out). She leaks oil pretty bad, as soon as it rolls 200k its going to a ford diesel tech to looked over and fix anything wrong.
I cant remember everything off the top of my head. My 7.3 has been towed twice, 6.0 never. Im not trying to start a fight between which truck is better, im just real tired of all of us blue oval owners and lovers fighting over which motor is better and bashing on the other. we should all look on the bright side, we drive built tough trucks.
So basically, stop bashing on my 6.0, i love both my trucks to death and all this complaining about the 6.0 being a terrible motor is wrong, its a great motor and i love it, as much as my 7.3. they both get the job done, and they tow like hell.
#3
#6
Anyway, everyone has their own favorites and expectations. To many, anything that doesn't live up to them is inferior. My philosophy is, if it suits you it suits me. Don't fret too much what others think. If we all had the same tastes and expectations we would all have lifts, stacks, cab lights, and whatever else we can slap on our trucks. Thank goodness we don't.
#7
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#9
This is true i understand that, but people saying the 7.3 is the king of all engines are crazy, there is a reason it got discontinued.
The 5.4 is a great hearty motor, little small for superduties but it does bust it's ***.
#10
I can, however, shift a manual transmission without using the clutch, except for the old 1956 F-100 I drove in high school and the unsynchronized 1st gear. Even with a clutch you had to feel your way into it.
I haven't driven a 3-on-the-tree vehicle in at least 3 decades.
I haven't driven a 3-on-the-tree vehicle in at least 3 decades.
#11
with any manual shifting transmission, no clutch is needed to shift, and, if done correctly, does not place any undue wear on the transmission... the problem is, fewer and fewer drivers can rev-match and heel-toe their shifts without the teeth clashing.
An unsynchronized transmission is the most difficult to shift (with or without the clutch)... With this setup, double clutching and rev matching are necessary. The first clutch press is to remove pressure from the engaged gear so it will slip out of engagement. The clutch must then be released and the rotational speed of the gears to be engaged must be matched. Finally the clutch is pressed again to allow the desired gears to mesh... and off you go. Downshifting is similar, only instead of slowing the rotational speed of the input shaft to match revs, you have to increase the rotational speed.
A transmission with synchros allows more room for user error, and easier shifting using any method (double or single clutching, or "granny" shifting) Pressure against the synchro (a designed wear part) will assist in the necessary rev matching, so the clutch and right leg do not have to. This means that while granny shifting, you simply have to get the rotational speed of the gears to be meshed close and the synchros will do the rest. Load doesn't matter, as the easier end for the synchros to increase/decrease rotational speed will always be the engine side.
One note that I will mention is that when trying to granny shift a non-synchronized transmission, there is a chance that the gear teeth (for a sliding gear transmission, the dog-ears for a collar type) will be lined up to interfere instead of mesh... This requires the engine speed to be adjusted and rematched before the gears will mesh... sometimes it can take a few tires which is what makes a non-sync transmission so much more difficult to shift.
#12
#14