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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2009, 09:10 PM
Kart18 Kart18 is offline
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Well - call me what you want but I put a coil and a throttle position sensor in it tonight and that wasn't the problem.
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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2009, 08:50 AM
Kart18 Kart18 is offline
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Let me ask a question - could this be the IAC (Idle Air Control)? If this thing is bad and never letting more air move threw as you accelerate, stuck at zero %, could this cause a rich, bucking, cutting out condition?

If I understand correctly I can check this by unpluging it and the idle should change? If it doesn't that means it is bad. When unpluged the motor should stumble and stall. If it keeps running and there is no change in the idle it needs replaced or removed and cleaned.
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2009, 03:16 PM
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let the engine run with a gauge on it for fuel pressure for say 30 mins or so, or just drive it a bit till its bucking and chugging, then check the fuel pressure. sounds to me like the fuel pressure regulator. those sometimes will stick after a while, and you will end up with a fuel pressure of 70 80, or sometimes 90 psi. does it run better around 3,000 than say 2000 rpms?*
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2009, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Kart18 View Post
Let me ask a question - could this be the IAC (Idle Air Control)? If this thing is bad and never letting more air move threw as you accelerate, stuck at zero %, could this cause a rich, bucking, cutting out condition?
No... it has no effect on engine operation above idle speed.
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1990 5.0HO AOD XLT X-Cab F150 3.55LS, 1994 3.0L 5-sp x-cab Ranger 3.45, 2004 3.0L 5-sp X-cab Ranger Edge 4.10, 2004 2.5L 5-spd Subaru Legacy
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Old 08-31-2009, 06:11 PM
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Yea the IAC is at 100% open when on the road, its ready position to take over engine idle control.
If it was closed "warm cruise" when it should be full open, your motor would stall, or would tend to try and stall every time you let off the gas pedal.
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Old 08-31-2009, 06:57 PM
Neptoess Neptoess is offline
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is the IAC why ppl in my drivethru sometimes have vehicles that seem like they're slightly revving every second? lol i've always wondered what was up with that
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Old 08-31-2009, 09:33 PM
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The computer is programmed to idle up the engine every time the AC clutch or electric fan engages, the smaller the motor the more it revs under this load.
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2009, 10:55 PM
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It does seem to run a little better, (I said a little better) at higher speeds - rpms. It acts up the worse at like 30 - 45 mph. And after a 12 - 15 mile drive when I stop it seems like it is going to shut off - the idle (in park) goes way up and then way down and up and down......

Dam thing runs all but perfect for the first 2 - 3 miles and then crap. This is when the motor is dead cold.
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Old 08-31-2009, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kart18 View Post
It does seem to run a little better, (I said a little better) at higher speeds - rpms. It acts up the worse at like 30 - 45 mph. And after a 12 - 15 mile drive when I stop it seems like it is going to shut off - the idle (in park) goes way up and then way down and up and down......

Dam thing runs all but perfect for the first 2 - 3 miles and then crap. This is when the motor is dead cold.
It may need a new IAC, or at least cleaned but no its not the reason it runs like it does. I wouldnt do anything with it until the main problem is cleared up.

Its runs better going fast for the same reason it runs good cold, it needs all or most of the fuel its getting for those conditions.
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 08-31-2009, 11:21 PM
Kart18 Kart18 is offline
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I did clean the IAC a few months ago.

So could it be the fuel regulator? Is there any way to check it to see if it is operating properly? I did have the fuel pressure checked at a garage and it was ok. Is the regulator before or after the place you check the fuel pressure?
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Old 09-01-2009, 08:13 AM
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Well after reading a bunch of these, i feel a little better than i am not the only one having the same problem too. I have a 87 F-150 with 89 460 EFI. I rebuilt the the whole thing and it's making me mad. I have put everything new in it besides Coolant temp sensor and fuel pressure regulator. mine runs great for the first few miles as well. loses power and then when shut off won't start, it will just sit there hardly idle or die. if you give it more throttle it dies or do nothing. no check engine light has come on either. unhooked the tps and motor shuts off. so my last option is it's prolly the fuel pressure regulator. That's what i am going to try. all other trucks i have seen have bad O2 sensors never really ran that bad. heck my old build 302 i had in it before didn't even have one and i put a block off plate on the egr and ran just fine.
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Old 09-01-2009, 08:15 AM
Crabby144 Crabby144 is offline
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also i am running platinum plugs. didnt' know dad threw those in when i was out of town working. platinum plugs require a bigger coil. your stock coil does not burn hot enough unless you buy a accel coil or mallory.
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2009, 08:33 AM
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throw out the plat plugs.
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2009, 08:55 AM
Neptoess Neptoess is offline
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yeah for these engines copper is just fine
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-Sony Head Unit controlling 30 GB iPod
-Kenwood KAC-6202 200W RMS@2 Ohms into:
-Polk Audio 55W 6.5" front speakers
-Pioneer 50W 6x8 rears
-Kenwood KAC-6104D 300W RMS@2 Ohms into:
-Alpine Type S 10" Subwoofer mounted behind drivers seat
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 09-01-2009, 10:04 AM
Crabby144 Crabby144 is offline
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Yeah, I just wish I could figure it out with my 460. I am tired of working on it and I want to be able to drive it.

I did forget to mention my plugs are pitch black. so i know it's running rich. so what does everyone think.......try the coolant sensor or fuel pressure regulator.
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Old 09-01-2009, 10:04 AM
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150, 1988, 1990, 2wd, 50, 96, cyl, f150, ford, motor, problems, ranger, rich, running, sensors

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