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Brake line size and flare type help.

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Old 08-26-2009, 09:33 AM
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Question Brake line size and flare type help.

I was up under the truck and noticed that there is some severe corrosion on a few of my steel brake lines (Boston salt...). I would like to be proactive and replace them before they blow out (probably in the worst possible situation).

The corrosion is worst near the frame rail (around the fuel filter area).

What is the correct line size and flare type for these lines? I will replace them with the regular soft steel lines (not ready to go all stainless)

Any help/advice would be appreciated. This will be my first time flaring brake lines.

2003 F-250 SuperCab V10
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Old 08-26-2009, 10:17 AM
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I'd go with the same size tubing as factory (dont go larger). Be sure to use a "double flare". http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TQ2XO6/...SIN=B000TQ2XO6
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Old 08-26-2009, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by WestxSRT10 View Post
I'd go with the same size tubing as factory (dont go larger). Be sure to use a "double flare".
any idea what the factory tubing size is? Is double flare what ford used on the truck?
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Old 08-26-2009, 06:04 PM
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Someone told me that these trucks run a very high pressure in the brake lines - and suggested having pressed fittings. In my case I only needed one brake line - so just used the oem part - I'm not sure how this applies to the rest of the truck, or what fittings are used oem. Sorry for not having more info for you.
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Old 08-26-2009, 07:25 PM
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Gunnerdog, all manufacturers use a double flare on the brake lines.
This gives a stronger leak-proof joint.
PM your vin and I can look up the factory lines for you.

Dan.

(not to be confused with Ed.0



He's my boss. lol.
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Old 09-01-2009, 10:18 AM
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whats up gunnerdog. where in boston are you? did you ever do the brake lines. i a in the proccess now looking for my brake leak and i will changin lines. while i was doing fuel pump yesterday i saw soe rusted lines.

i am in holbrook ma about 15 in south of boston.
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Old 09-01-2009, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y2kfordparts View Post
Gunnerdog, all manufacturers use a double flare on the brake lines.
This gives a stronger leak-proof joint.
I was doing lines on a 95 Chevy van the other day from the master cylinder to the rear wheels and all the union's were bubble flare. Most lines are double flare but I run into alot of older cars and import's using bubble.

I'm in Marshfield, also about 15 min South of boston right on the ocean and I see alot of rotted out lines from being parked by the beach then driven in the salty snow. I believe the lines are 3/16" and make sure your brake bleeders open before you cut into the lines.
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Old 09-01-2009, 11:53 AM
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if anyone is interested in lending a hand or making some money on a lii side job in MA let me know. i need to tackle the brake issue so i can drive it around and see what else is in need of attention since the truck has been sitting for so long.

how long does it take to replace brake lines.
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Old 09-01-2009, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishpimp View Post
whats up gunnerdog. where in boston are you? did you ever do the brake lines. i a in the proccess now looking for my brake leak and i will changin lines. while i was doing fuel pump yesterday i saw soe rusted lines.

i am in holbrook ma about 15 in south of boston.
Hey, sorry somehow i unsubscribed this thread...

anyway, i live in Newton Highlands, just of RT9.

I haven't changed that brake line yet. My fittings are all frozen and rusted, so i haven't worked up the courage to cut them out yet... i did get my parking brakes fixed and i want to have the truck re-inspected before i tear into anything else. I am still not sure what size that line is, the rust makes it hard to judge, but i believe it is 1/4" (for the long one running down the frame rail.)

I figure i will cut the old one out, try to remove it without deforming it too much then i will bend a new piece of tube to match. I'll just flare the ends on the tubing that is left behind and use unions to splice in my new piece. Sounds like a piece of cake, but with the limited room under there and my cruddy flare tool it could take a day or two and a lot of scrapped nuckles and swearing to get it done.
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Old 09-01-2009, 12:37 PM
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Oh and beers, lots of beers to get it done... Mechanical work usually takes me 2-3 beers, electrical usually takes 4-5 beers (6-12 beers if there is significant troubleshooting).

This is my first hydraulic project, not sure how much of a pain it will be, so i plan on having a full case on hand to get me through it.
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Old 09-01-2009, 01:23 PM
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small world... i was emailing you earlier about those tires. .... i just got some fluid today going to try to track down my leak. i want to make this driveable
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Old 09-04-2009, 11:10 AM
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my leak is in the same sarea the fuel filter is
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Old 12-06-2009, 09:10 PM
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I just did entire front-end replacement (ball joints, hub bearings, brakes and rotors) on my 2000 F350 and when I was turning the truck around to do the rear brakes and rotors, I noticed a significant fluid loss (refilled the resevoir twice). It turns out that the steel brake line is crusty with rust and spurting out brake fluid like a stuck pig. I went to my buddy at NAPA and he said to make sure that I bring the ends to match with the hose and flare tool I need. He said if you don't reuse the existing ends it could be a real pain to get the right fittings (he's had to create an adapter brake line). Just a word of advise to those who want to undertake this project. If the ends don't come off, make sure to open all of the bleeders, heat the ends and spray PB Blaster on the fittings to shrink them. Something I have to pursue soon since the first snow fall already hit us yesterday here in rural CT. I'll keep you all posted on my progress...wish me luck!

Last edited by EricPero; 12-06-2009 at 10:49 PM. Reason: spelling
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