Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)Diesel Topics Only
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anybody know who carries them. i need the hard line from the lift pump up to the filter. the threads on the fittings were stripped by the p/o on the upper connection to the fuel filter. what size thread is the inlet with the 90 deg elbow , looks like 1/4 npt into the hausing but the other end of the elbow looks like its not tapered. any suggestions? i was hoping to just get the flare fitting and the elbow and just flaring some straight hardline from auto zone but getting the whole pre bent line wouldnt be a problem if its not 47 million dollars. also the engine came from an e series van ambulance so the filter is over behind the a/c compressor.
The side of the elbow that is towards the line is not tapered - it uses the Parker vibra-lock setup where there is a fat rubber "donut" around the tube and when you tighten the line nut it squeezes on the donut and makes it seal to the tube. The line itself is 3/8". I don't know where to get another line except from a junkyard truck. You are correct on the filter husing threads tho, they are indeed 1/4" NPT, and IIRC it's the same down at the lift pump - I see no issues with getting two fittings that have 1/4" NPT male threads on one side, and 3/8" flared ends on the other side, then installing those in the lift pump and filter housing and connecting them, with AutoZone-special 3/8" steel fuel line. Just make sure you use a clamp or two along the length of the line, to prevent it from vibrating excessively.
I have that on my to do list, to replace the steel line with a neoprene lined high pressure hose and compatible fittings. I think it's neoprene but at any rate it is a lined fuel hose. Regular rubber hp hose will break down in fairly short order.
thx guys. i found a hose barb for the lift pump and the filter inlet. my lift pump was farktup and wouldnt pump fuel from a 5 gallon can i had full of diesel so i changed the pump (what a bitch) i must not have it in there right and it wont pump either.
ive decided to just scrap the whole mech pump and put an electric pump on the frame rail up in front of the selector valve and run some metal 3/8" or 5/16" from there and then bubble flare it and add a shrt piece of hose from there to the filter. the pump is only 50 bux from napa and the big block chevy block off plate is only 5 bux. its a lifetime warranty and ill carry a spare. that mech. lift pump install is a major bitch by yourself without a remote starter. i think the electric pump will be better for keeping the system primed and will be a heluva lot easier to replace if it fails.
I think a E8012S will do the job ($68.99@Oreillys). I cut a section out of my interconnect line and put one in series with the mechanical pump. It works great. I use it to save my starter when I need to prime my system. It is the type that GM used on their imitation diesels. AC had one running for 10,000 hours on test. It never did fail, they stopped the test because they were tired of waiting for it to fail.
this is the closest thread i could find to my problem...but i think my hardline b/w the fuel filter and lift pump has a small crack. seems they are hard to find and (as of now) i don't know how to do the flares/bends to make a new one. anyone see a problem with replacing it with some rubber (or someone earlier in this thread mentioned neoprene) fuel line? on the oil cooler it looks like the p.o. just cut the hardlines and then stuck rubber linesover the stubs of hard line. was thinking of doing something like that.
was unclear what the the thing surrounding the current hardline is though (with the small wire coming out of it).
yeah.just replace this line with fuel hose.that's what most of us do when we convert to electric fuel pumps.just take off the fitting (i forget what it is) and get a hose barb fitting.run some hose,and done for $5 or less.
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