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how do I get the best HP out of my 360/390 FE

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  #1  
Old 08-23-2009, 12:01 AM
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how do I get the best HP out of my 360/390 FE

I have a 360 FE. I already know the only difference between a 360 and a 390 is basically the crank and the carb that came stock. i already plan to rebuild my 360 . i know I want to install a 390 crank.My questions are:

#1 should I bore it out and how much?

#2 What size cam should I run?
My options are : . .256/.268---.487/.493
.270/.270---.519/.519
.262/.27--- .513/.520
.268/.268 ----.494/.494
.272/.282 ---.460.480
.280/.280 ---.530.530
.296/.296 ---.572/.572

Now bear in mind I am not Building a race truck. this is a truck that is bagged and body dropped. I just want to be able to burn the tires off for the sole purpose of looking cool. Right now it can't pull the hat off your head much less do a burn out.........
I already have a 4 barrel carb and edelbrock intake and my other plans are a set of headers.. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.. Thanks

P.S If you truly have no advice or you do not know what you are talking about please do not submit a reply thanxs


 
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Old 08-23-2009, 01:24 AM
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If you want it to be driveable on the street, but light 'em up quick, a mild street/strip cam would probably fit your needs best. When I get around to modding my 360, I'm not gonna go nuts with the lift, and that's why I will make the following suggestion:

Lunati Bracket Master II hydraulic

300/300---.514/.514

RPM range 1500-5000

Volumetrically, I think this duration/ lift will work very well with your dual plane setup and help to maintain your torque at lower RPM. It's one of the three cams I have been looking at for mine, with the other two being hydraulic roller cams.

Hope this helps you.
 
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Old 08-23-2009, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Bowtie_Schmowtie
If you want it to be driveable on the street, but light 'em up quick, a mild street/strip cam would probably fit your needs best. When I get around to modding my 360, I'm not gonna go nuts with the lift, and that's why I will make the following suggestion:

Lunati Bracket Master II hydraulic

300/300---.514/.514

RPM range 1500-5000

Volumetrically, I think this duration/ lift will work very well with your dual plane setup and help to maintain your torque at lower RPM. It's one of the three cams I have been looking at for mine, with the other two being hydraulic roller cams.

Hope this helps you.

thanks that helps.......
 
  #4  
Old 08-23-2009, 02:14 AM
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Bore it the minimum required to clean up the bores. It really just depends on what kind of condition your block is in, some clean up with .015 or .020, others need .030 or even more. With an engine that runs good now I would say you won't need much, but finding pistons in .015 or .020 can be tuff and that also forces people to go to .030. Out of the cams listed I would go with the third one down 268/27? .513/.520, it is close to what I had in my 68 with a 390 and it would turn the tires no sweat, but was still decent to drive. Be careful of wheel hop if you are running stock suspension.
-Johnboy
 
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Old 08-23-2009, 09:43 AM
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What are the part numbers for those cams? Those numbers don't mean squat, it's duration @ .050 plus lift, plus overlap that begin to tell the whole story.

Josh
 
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Old 08-23-2009, 11:27 AM
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bored my 74,360,+.060,all new innerds, ground 390 crankshaft r-010;m-010,balanced all, with hedmans and comp.k33-230-4 cam. rumbles, still good on street. chow
 
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Old 08-23-2009, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
What are the part numbers for those cams? Those numbers don't mean squat, it's duration @ .050 plus lift, plus overlap that begin to tell the whole story.

Josh
The Lunati kit that I suggested is #00053LK.

223 duration on E and I at .050

112 degree lobe separation
 
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Bowtie_Schmowtie
The Lunati kit that I suggested is #00053LK.

223 duration on E and I at .050

112 degree lobe separation
That sounds pretty nice. Keeping the duration of 220-230 would make for decent power and keep the vacuum brakes happy. I would personally err on the side of 230 @ .050, with 550 lift and between 112-114 overlap.

As for the block just bore what is needed to clean it up and stay with the standard sizes of 030, 040 and 060 overbore.

Don't forget you'll need the 390 rods with the 390 crank, 360 rods will not work.

Josh
 
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Old 08-23-2009, 08:50 PM
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Don't forget that when you add the 390 crank, you will also need 390 rods. If you are planning an overbore, you will already be getting new pistons. What type of carb/intake are you planning to run?
 
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Old 08-23-2009, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdavesohc
Don't forget that when you add the 390 crank, you will also need 390 rods. If you are planning an overbore, you will already be getting new pistons. What type of carb/intake are you planning to run?

Thanks everybody for you advice.... I do know I will need to run 390 rods. What type of pistons would you guys run?

I am not running stock suspension





also i need a timing chain cover.. Does anyone offer a new one.. I can get one from a junk yard here but I am afraid it will be cracked or will crack like mine did. That aluminum is sooo brittle
 
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Old 08-24-2009, 08:38 PM
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Speed pro forged aluminum. Works great. Are you running Ford heads or aftermarket? I would be shooting for a 8.7-9.0 compression. No higher than 9.0, though.
 
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Old 08-25-2009, 09:18 PM
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I have always heard that 360 and 390 had the same rods and only the wrist pin location on the piston and the stroke was different. The chart I have only shows the 352 as having a different rod length than the other FE engines. But this does share the same stroke as a 360 so maybe I am wrong?
 
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Old 08-25-2009, 10:08 PM
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Actually, I believe you can stroke that motor to 401 with the right crank. You might want to check with your machine shop.
 
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Old 08-25-2009, 10:12 PM
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352 and 360 have the same length rods 6.54 inches versus 6.48 inches for 390, 406, 410, 427 and 428.

A 360 used the same pistons as the Mercury 410.

Josh
 
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Old 08-25-2009, 10:15 PM
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A 060 over 390 is 401 cubic inches.
 


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