How do you know if your ignition control module is bad?
#17
I thank everyone for their help, but I was wondering what the advantage of having electronic ignition over regular ignition?? I found a new distributor for regular ignition at an auto parts store for $41.99. I was thinking about going back to regular ignition, instead of getting a new magnetic pickup (If that is the problem). The guy at the auto parts store told me that a new magnetic pickup is $40. Might as well get a new distributor and go back to regular ignition. Any pointers on what I should do?
#18
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Not exactly. Look at numberdummy's post.
Also the modules can fail in weird ways too.
The start and run circuts are wired to the module seperately, so a problem with one may not affect the other. (The engine cranks and cranks and fails to start, but when I let off the key it starts syndrome) or (the engine starts but then stops again when I let off the key)
Also the modules can fail in weird ways too.
The start and run circuts are wired to the module seperately, so a problem with one may not affect the other. (The engine cranks and cranks and fails to start, but when I let off the key it starts syndrome) or (the engine starts but then stops again when I let off the key)
#19
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I thank everyone for their help, but I was wondering what the advantage of having electronic ignition over regular ignition?? I found a new distributor for regular ignition at an auto parts store for $41.99. I was thinking about going back to regular ignition, instead of getting a new magnetic pickup (If that is the problem). The guy at the auto parts store told me that a new magnetic pickup is $40. Might as well get a new distributor and go back to regular ignition. Any pointers on what I should do?
The Duraspark-II (Blue Grommet) is considered highly reliable, and a worthwhile upgrade from a points system. Very few components to fail. No dwell to adjust etc... And replacement parts are easy to get, and not all that expencive.
The Duraspark-I and II are not swappable or compatible with each other, so a rewiring would be required to swap them around, or get a harness from a 1976 or newer truck.
So with that said, Points system is better than DS-I but DS-II is better than both of the latter.
#21
#22
81-F-150-Explorer and others: I have a similar problem with our '76 F250 - 460 engine. She usually runs fine (except for guzzling the fuel!) but lately is becoming much harder to start when cold. Yesterday she began running real rough and then quit with a strange "run-on" sound - then dead (with a ton of firewood in the back!!!)
I noticed that during the hard starts over the last weeks in the morning, after a good crank and no start, when I turned the ignition switch off, there was a single cough each time.
Could this simply be a bad ignition switch? Is there a way to bypass the ignition switch so that power gets to the ignition system directly?
Before I begin systematically checking the Duraspark module, coil and distributor, I'd like to eliminate the simple stuff. I will check all the grounds (engine ground strap) due to all the body & frame rust. Are there other ground wires in the ignition system - is the DuraSpark unit grounded through the casing to the body?
Also, is the "Blue Grommet" easy to see on the DuraSpark II module?
Thanks - hope I haven't highjacked this thread...
I noticed that during the hard starts over the last weeks in the morning, after a good crank and no start, when I turned the ignition switch off, there was a single cough each time.
Could this simply be a bad ignition switch? Is there a way to bypass the ignition switch so that power gets to the ignition system directly?
Before I begin systematically checking the Duraspark module, coil and distributor, I'd like to eliminate the simple stuff. I will check all the grounds (engine ground strap) due to all the body & frame rust. Are there other ground wires in the ignition system - is the DuraSpark unit grounded through the casing to the body?
Also, is the "Blue Grommet" easy to see on the DuraSpark II module?
Thanks - hope I haven't highjacked this thread...
#23
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DS-II, although it has more wires (6), three of those are between the module and distributor, two is between the module and coil, and/or ignition switch run circut, and one is between the module and "I" terminal on the starter solenoid. The advantage is a cap and rotor, Plugs etc... is a tune up. No adjustments, longer intervals between tune ups, hotter spark. etc...
Not hard at all to wire, especially with a DS-II harness from a donor vehicle. All you need is to hook up three wires. 1976-1986 had DS-II systems, but the earlier the better chance you will find the harness.
But do what you are comfortable with. I'm only giving you suggestions.
#24
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81-F-150-Explorer and others: I have a similar problem with our '76 F250 - 460 engine. She usually runs fine (except for guzzling the fuel!) but lately is becoming much harder to start when cold. Yesterday she began running real rough and then quit with a strange "run-on" sound - then dead (with a ton of firewood in the back!!!)
I noticed that during the hard starts over the last weeks in the morning, after a good crank and no start, when I turned the ignition switch off, there was a single cough each time.
Could this simply be a bad ignition switch? Is there a way to bypass the ignition switch so that power gets to the ignition system directly?
I noticed that during the hard starts over the last weeks in the morning, after a good crank and no start, when I turned the ignition switch off, there was a single cough each time.
Could this simply be a bad ignition switch? Is there a way to bypass the ignition switch so that power gets to the ignition system directly?
Before I begin systematically checking the Duraspark module, coil and distributor, I'd like to eliminate the simple stuff. I will check all the grounds (engine ground strap) due to all the body & frame rust. Are there other ground wires in the ignition system - is the DuraSpark unit grounded through the casing to the body?
Also, is the "Blue Grommet" easy to see on the DuraSpark II module?
DS-II's can be Blue, Brown etc...
Blue is the most comon and the most simple.
#26
81-F-150-Explorer and others: I have a similar problem with our '76 F250 - 460 engine. She usually runs fine (except for guzzling the fuel!) but lately is becoming much harder to start when cold. Yesterday she began running real rough and then quit with a strange "run-on" sound - then dead (with a ton of firewood in the back!!!)
I noticed that during the hard starts over the last weeks in the morning, after a good crank and no start, when I turned the ignition switch off, there was a single cough each time.
I noticed that during the hard starts over the last weeks in the morning, after a good crank and no start, when I turned the ignition switch off, there was a single cough each time.
#28
Thank you 81-F-150....
I'll attack the problem over the next week or so (the vehicle is on an islated island)
When you say coil resistor "bypass" do you mean there should be 12 volts at the "I" terminal when you crank or should the 12 volts disappear when you turn to start.
No, I got no spark when I grounded a plug against a headbolt. But, I'm not confident there was good contact - must try it again.
I'll attack the problem over the next week or so (the vehicle is on an islated island)
When you say coil resistor "bypass" do you mean there should be 12 volts at the "I" terminal when you crank or should the 12 volts disappear when you turn to start.
No, I got no spark when I grounded a plug against a headbolt. But, I'm not confident there was good contact - must try it again.
#30
Fits: All 1977 CA V8 passenger cars // 1978 CA 302 Mustang / Fairmont/Zephyr / Granada/Monarch // 1979 302 CA LTD/Mercury Grand Marquis / Mustang/Capri / Granada/Monarch / Fairmont/Zephyr.
This module was a total POS! The module used on 1977's and on some early 1978's were defective. Ford had them on D99 = National Back Order for THREE months!
It was a FIASCO!
1000's of new and nearly new cars were parked on dealer service lots, because no one was able to get any.
I bought all the used modules I could find locally at wrecking yards, so the customers could get their cars back.
After three months, the modules became available again. The first shipments were also defective!
It took another TWO WEEKS to get modules that worked. It's no wonder that Ford mechanics refered to DuraSpark as NeverSpark!
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BLUE DuraSpark Ignition Module: 1U2Z12A199AA (Motorcraft DY893) / 1U2Z-12A199-AA replaced D9VZ-12A199-A and D6AZ-12A199-A / Available from Ford.
MSRP: $130.60 // FTE sponsor Y2KFORDPARTS.COM price: $70.52.