I was installing an amp for a subwoofer yesterday. I needed to get 12v for the remote on the AMP (For those who don’t know I just need 12v to act as an on/off switch for my amp, so It’s not getting power once the vehicle is off). I chose to splice into a while on the back of the factory radio which gives 12v with the ignition switch. It was perfect because my amp would turn on/off with the ignition. I unplugged the radio from its harness and spliced the wire and ran it to the amp.
After I hooked up the amp and the subwoofer everything worked fine. Radio/lights.. the whole 9 yards. But when I went to leave the garage , the car would turn over and want to start, but would’t catch. I know it’s a problem with the PATS Securilock system because the “Theft” light its blinking rapidly. I know all about the chip in the key and the PATS module. Sooo…
I went to a locksmith today and they came out to the car because they said when you unplugged the radio it gets the PATS system out of SYNC with each other. So they made a new key and ran some other test with their scan tool and the car will still not run. He said there is no problem between the ignition (where the key inserts) and the module but maybe from the module to the PCM? I have a feeling the system just needs to be disengaged, but I can’t find any information at all. Anyone have anything?
So since the PATS theft system is engaged, how do you disengage it.. I really don’t want to take it to the DEALER.
Wish I could give specifics on the PATS, but I can't.
I have unplugged the radios and replaced them on 3 different ford trucks and never had a problem. Not to second guess the guy, but I am second guessing him.
I know exactly what you are talking about re: the switched 12 volts for the amp. I recently installed an amp and subwoofer in my son's Explorer. I seem to remember a switched hot wire available in the harness available for this purpose?
I wonder if splicing has lead to your problem?
If it were me, I'd put everything back EXACTLY to factory conditions and see if the problem clears.
Maybe then look at a different approach to hooking up for power.
Well, I finally broke down and sent it off to the dealer today. I don't have any more time to mess around with it. I have called countless Tech's/dealers/webforum/internet search. Seems this PAT system is as elusive as Snipe Hunting. I just hope they don't pull the, " your transponder is bad 1000$ please" card. But whats a guy going to do. I need a vehicle.
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