Ok, on my way to work Tuesday, my F250 6.0 Diesel lost all turbo pressure, with the Turbo no working at all. Made it to work without the light coming out and limping it on in not pushing it. Once at work, called and let the dealer know and he said probably had a boot off just to limp it on in. Had my boss follow me and we started to the dealership, which was about 20 miles away, and the Red Check engine light came on. So I called the dealership back and told him asked if he wanted me still to continue on. He said No.. so I had it toed. They finally got my truck in and said that the VGT Sensor was out and that they would replace it and I would be ready to go. Called them back before I went to pick it up and they said, yep that it was working fine. Had my boss again.. drop me off to pickup my truck, they said it's done I let my ride go and I paid my deposit for my warranty work as it has 95,438 miles on it at time of service. They said they had a couple codes came up and that they replaced the VGT Sensor and then cleaned out the turbo. Not thinking that would help. But.. I took their word. When I paid I got printouts of what they did and also copies of what the Hotline Assistance Request that Ford sends in and receives back... it said for them to do that. I thought Ok.. benefit of the doubt that this is what it is going to be. BECAUSE... this is the 3rd time my truck has been in the shop over simular problems. First time, that I had totally no Turbo Pressure. I walk out get in the truck, start it up let it sit there thinking hummm.. ok still doesn't sound right, I give it gas, the turbo kicks in but will kick out and back in and then when you let off the gas, the engine would no let off suddenly, but very gradually, like it's stuck. Then I race the motor again, and this time the turbo kicks in but when you get to the floor, it only has like 3500 rpm's. Not my normal truck. Then the third time I realize, the turbo is kicking in but have no turbo pressure at all. I go back inside and talk to the service maanger, he comes out and realizes that there is something wrong, but they take it back inside and it shows them to have 24pounds pressure then. So what's going on with it???

HEEEELLLPPPP!!!!

 

P0046 is code for the vgt solenoid not moving, however since they just put one in that is very unlikely. P2262 is a mechanical fault indicating that the turbo was commanded and the boost was so low that there must be a mechanical fault, maybe or maybe not. The inputs need to be checked, MAF,BARO, MAP, EBP. What year is the truck? It is possible to rebuild a turbo incorrectly, I have seen it. We will give them the benefit of the doubt. Also depending on the year, 24 psi is just slightly too low for 2004 late model year to 2007. The spec is a minimum of 25 psi when hot in 3rd gear, wot, heavy load (towing, going uphill, etc) 2003 to early 2004 have a vgt learn procedure that can be kinda of complicated and the spec is a minimum of 22 psi.

 

subscribing.

Please keep us informed! I would say for you to stay all over the dealership on this one since it has a history and you are so close to the end of warranty.

Edit -
Personally it sounds like you need to insist on a new turbo ........

 

My truck is a 2005 built 10/16/2004.

 

Ok... went to pick my truck up yesterday after them finally agreeing to put a new turbo on the vehicle. No such luck that I could get out of the parking lot. I pulled out and went down the first street I could and it would not go over 45 miles per hour. I didn't think it sounded right when I first started it up. But again... I was giving them the benefit of the doubt.

There is no way that they could have even test drove it. I called the dealership and then went straight back. By the time I got back (Not even a mile away) my vehicle smelled like oil. I pulled into the parking lot and then I put the owner into the truck and asked him.. ""OK do you think your mechanic or your service manager even drove this truck??"" he even replied..."No, doesn't look like it" That's how bad it was. Any other suggestions, on what would be wrong with my truck now??

 

With a new turbo installed and your truck being a later build then there has to be something wrong with one of the inputs so the PCM is not commanding good boost. The oil smell is most likely from the turbo, they come preoiled and in a bag so the oil gets everywhere, takes a little driving to burn it all off, if you can still smell it then they didn't drive it at all. Sounds like a bad diesel tech there. Unfortunately if you take it somewhere else now then you will have to pay the $100 deductible again! Might be worth it though, can you hear any exhaust leaks? A leaking y-pipe or egr pipe will cause low boost, a bad turbo tube connection will, I have seen the plastic turbo pipe get a hole in it. Can you hear any loud air sounds when you boost? All you should hear is the turbo spooling.

 

I did not hear any leaks, but I read the sheet where the mechanic writes down what he has done, and only said re tested, it does not say that he road tested it this time. It did on the first repair and cleaning of the turbo.

With all the problems with the EGR valves and EGR Coolers... would one of those be out again? We have had to have 2 EGR Values, cranksensor, IDM Mod assembly(?? What ever that is..)2x's and also the EGR Cooler 3 times now the VGT Sensor and also the Turbo. Sounds like they never have gotten to the bottom of the problem in the first place OR is this just the 6.0 Diesel engine itself???

 

So many egr coolers and egr valves are probably related to unresolved cooling system concern. In all fairness that particular TSB has been updated so many times! Now Ford has us replace oil cooler and egr coolers together if the egr cooler is found bad.

However, unless you have a serious egr cooler leak or a egr valve stuck open then that should not affect boost. Again, sounds like you have some sort of leak either intake or exhaust leak or a sensor is inaccurate such as a map hose leak or bias ebp sensor. Once you took it back did it have the same codes?

 

im with him, if they did a good diagnosis they probably checked for carbon on the egr valve. since you might have a hack tech he might not have put new o rings on the egr valve making an intake leak causing low boost. or he didnt lube them or something. ive seen it before and its happened to me before. its pretty sensitive.

 

What suggestions do you guys have on how to get this baby fixed???? I've complained to Ford Customer Support now 5 times and still nothing.

 

There is not a whole lot you can do without some diagnostic equipment, however since you are under warranty you shouldn't have to. Tell the service manager that they need to get the FSE(field service engineer) involved. A FSE travels around and its their job to help with difficult problems. Usually their is one Ford FSE for a whole area but they are a big help when techs get stuck.

 

What's the difference between the Field Service Engineer and the Ford Hotline Assistance that they use??? He was stumped from the beginning from what I understand.

 

Any other suggestions?? I go the new turbo, but still do not have my truck back.

 

jboczar has pointed out the next course. It is so close to end of warranty that his suggestion to request a Field Service Engineer is definitely the way to go. Make sure you document all of this so you still get it covered if you go a little past the warranty time or miles.

While you wait for the FSE ..........

Also, you could pull the MAP hose and EBP tube yourself and see if you had leakage or pluggage in the hose and/or tube.

The MAP sensor mounts under a triangular bracket that is "to the left" of your heater control valve (coolant flow to the heater core). It is near the firewall. The MAP sensor hose (rubber hose w/ a corrugated plastic heat shield around it) connects to a port on the right (passenger's) side intake manifold. I took the hose off and blew air through it.

The EBP tube is a metal tube. The EBP sensor (and the tube to the exhaust manifold) are located on the left (driver's) side of the engine. The later model EBP sensors were relocated, but I do not recall the year model that initiated the change. It is a little harder to remove this tube, but when you look at it, I think it should be pretty clear and not too hard. You can use a flexible .22 caliber cleaning rod or a proper diameter wire to stick through the tube to "rod it out".

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Check the elctrical connectors on these sensors also.

I do know that a bad EBP sensor has gotten a few folks new turbos when the dealership diid not know how to troubleshoot thoroughly. jboczar also mentioned the MAF sensor as a possibility. The FSE should resolve all this.

 

While you are waiting (after checking the hose and tube described above), you can try the VGT re-learn process described in the Tech Folder.

Post 7 in the thread below:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...urbo-abcs.html

It still seems odd that they did not test drive your truck after the new VGT and the new turbo. This is a requirement to complete the repair ..... hard to imagine a dealership tech not doing this (multiple times).