Symptom is like battery is dead when trying to start, however, battery has 12.8 volts and 12.9 volts. Lights work, windows work, dashboard works. After "wait to start" light goes out, i turn the key the rest of the way, lights on dash go out and nothing happens. Could this be the starter or the ingnition switch? Or something else?

 

Sounds like you have one bad battery. Take them out and have them load tested.

 

If the batteries are 3-4 years old change them out. Replacing the batteries now is cheaper than replacing both batteries and the starter at the same time.

Weak batteries kill a starter faster than you can blink. You will be really crying then if you need new batts and a starter.

 

I also tried to start with a charger, set on 12V, 200 Amps, engine start, did not even turn over the starter.

 

Could be bad cell in one or both batterys ( still showing battery voltage 12.5v to 12.75v but no amps available ), corrosion at cables ( remove and clean any white ,grey or black film off battery posts and cable ends), cables may be loose at posts or at solinoid or starter, I would clean the posts and cable ends, load test and hydrometer test both batterys. ( or use one of the new electronic battery testers). If you don't have the equipment to test them you can take them out and take to most parts stores to have tested, most will test for free. You want to rule out the batterys before you start thinking about starters and switches.

 

3 months ago, i replaced one of the two batteries. I had them both checked at that time and one was week the other needed to be replaced. So I replaced the bad one. That was only 3-4 months ago.

 

Keep the ideas coming. Post are clean as a whistle. Sears coated all four posts when they replaced one battery. Even if one was dead, wouldn't a 200 amp charger set on "engine start" still at least turn over the starter?

 

if a battery is bad it won't always let a 200 amp charger start it either. be careful doing that as well if it does start it can spike your alternator and blow the diods out of it. it is also hard on your ECM

 

A good rule of thumb is always change both at the same time. A used battery will usally be a little weaker than the new one and will always be drawing the new one down. We always change all batterys at the same time even on semis with 3 or 4 batterys, saves alot of hassel and inconvience in the long run

 

If the dash lights only go out when the key is turned the check your starter solenoid. I've run into that problem more than once in several gas cars.... If the batteries are weak the solenoid will at least click as it tries to engage the bendix...

Sounds like a bad starter solenoid from this description....

 

I agree, I don't see why everyone is focusing on bad batteries. To get a direct answer, put a voltmeter across the terminals of the starter relay, and if you don't see any voltage as you try to start, then the batteries aren't the problem.

 

Getting lots of good advice! I am at work today, I brought both batteries with me to run by Sears and have them check the batteries. There is no clicking sound, so maybe it is the solenoid. I suspect that I have at least one bad battery since it is not new. I will remember next time to change both at the same time. I do not see the need to to both now since one is only a few months old unless Sears gives me the credit on the new one still under warrantee. I think I might be pulling the starter tonight.

 

You said your battery posts are clean. What about the other ends of the cables? Loose / corroded grounds or connections can do the same thing.

 

Absolutely,w/ the light going out,that was my first thought.
(ground cable)

 

I will check the other ends this evening when I get home.