Transmission input shaft to replace: It's not there?
#1
Transmission input shaft to replace: It's not there?
Hey everyone, I was told to replace the Trans input shaft gasket, but when I took the part off that I thought it was under....there was no gasket! It was just bare metal.
So here are some pics for reference. Can someone tell me where the gasket I need to replace is located at?
You can see in the next two pics of where I thought the trans input shaft gasket was supposed to be. I know the pics may not be great, but I'm trying to show you that both parts are just bare metal, no gasket.
This is a pic of the trans, can someone point me in the direction of the where-abouts of the REAL gasket I'm trying to replace?
Thank you very much.
So here are some pics for reference. Can someone tell me where the gasket I need to replace is located at?
You can see in the next two pics of where I thought the trans input shaft gasket was supposed to be. I know the pics may not be great, but I'm trying to show you that both parts are just bare metal, no gasket.
This is a pic of the trans, can someone point me in the direction of the where-abouts of the REAL gasket I'm trying to replace?
Thank you very much.
#3
The gasket fits between the trans case in the first pic and the nose piece in the second pic. The four bolts that attach the nose piece to the trans case go through the four holes in your gasket.
Look at the nosepiece you are holding in your hand and rotate it so the flanged end is facing you, the gasket is shaped to fit the flange.
Look at the nosepiece you are holding in your hand and rotate it so the flanged end is facing you, the gasket is shaped to fit the flange.
#5
Ahhhh, I forgot about my shop manual....sinful I am!
Ahhhah. I just didn't see it, but I knew that's where it should've been, especially when I saw the gasket and say that there just happened to be a gasket that looked to fit that!
Thank you guys. I hope to get this trans/engine assy back together within early this week, and then the ball should really start to roll later into next week.
I'm sorry for forgetting about the shop manual, I can't believe I didn't remember I had that sitting in my cars back seat.
Sorry guys. Thank you very much.
Ahhhah. I just didn't see it, but I knew that's where it should've been, especially when I saw the gasket and say that there just happened to be a gasket that looked to fit that!
Thank you guys. I hope to get this trans/engine assy back together within early this week, and then the ball should really start to roll later into next week.
I'm sorry for forgetting about the shop manual, I can't believe I didn't remember I had that sitting in my cars back seat.
Sorry guys. Thank you very much.
#6
I'm not so sure that what you were told to replace is the gasket. I think you were probably told to replace the SEAL. It's standard practice to replace the front transmission seal when the transmission is out as preventative maintenance because it's a real pain to get to if it starts leaking later. They will wear out over time while a gasket will not wear out and leak if properly installed. If you look into the bearing retainer (the part you're holding in the second picture) from the back side, you'll see the round seal pressed into the housing. It encompasses the shaft and rides against it as it turns.
#7
Where would I get that, I was looking for a seal, and never found it. so I just assumed that was the same thing......
dang, can I just make it out of something? hahahahaha
I take it I'd need to have it pulled out and pressed in by a machine shop.......again. But where would I get it? I'll take it apart again and take a look today.
dang, can I just make it out of something? hahahahaha
I take it I'd need to have it pulled out and pressed in by a machine shop.......again. But where would I get it? I'll take it apart again and take a look today.
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#8
Nope, can't just make it out of something. It shouldn't be too hard to find one. Check with NAPA first and then all the usual Ford truck parts suppliers. If they don't show a listing, there will normally be a number stamped onto the front side of the seal. It will be visible once it is removed. Any bearing supply house or NAPA type parts store will be able to cross reference that number for a replacement.
Changing a seal is sort of a skill. It's something that you learn to do. The shop manuals all tell you to do it, but never tell you how. It's assumed that you already know. To remove the old one, I usually invert the housing with the bottom supported by the jaws of my vice and use a long screwdriver or punch inserted through the bore at the front of the housing to catch the lip of the seal and knock it out backwards. As for installing the new one, yes, any machine shop will be able to install it for you. An old, experienced wrench like me can knock a new one in with a hammer and a socket or a piece of pipe, but it takes a special touch to do it successfully without bending or cocking the seal. If you want to try it yourself, order two seals just in case you wreck the first one - and you probably will. Don't take that the wrong way - I've trashed more seals than I care to admit over the years before I got good at it. It's all part of the learning curve. Now I have a shop press to put them in with and the learning curve has started all over again. No worries with a press about getting it started straight, but I tend to want to use too much pressure and crush them!
Honestly, if I were you, I think I would remove the front bearing retainer again and take it into a good, local transmission shop. They've probably got a seal on the shelf and can change the thing for you in about 15 minutes and probably won't charge you much. Ask them if you can watch them do it. This way you'll get the job done properly for fair money and you'll get to see how it's done by a pro without fear of accidentally breaking something or ruining a new seal.
Changing a seal is sort of a skill. It's something that you learn to do. The shop manuals all tell you to do it, but never tell you how. It's assumed that you already know. To remove the old one, I usually invert the housing with the bottom supported by the jaws of my vice and use a long screwdriver or punch inserted through the bore at the front of the housing to catch the lip of the seal and knock it out backwards. As for installing the new one, yes, any machine shop will be able to install it for you. An old, experienced wrench like me can knock a new one in with a hammer and a socket or a piece of pipe, but it takes a special touch to do it successfully without bending or cocking the seal. If you want to try it yourself, order two seals just in case you wreck the first one - and you probably will. Don't take that the wrong way - I've trashed more seals than I care to admit over the years before I got good at it. It's all part of the learning curve. Now I have a shop press to put them in with and the learning curve has started all over again. No worries with a press about getting it started straight, but I tend to want to use too much pressure and crush them!
Honestly, if I were you, I think I would remove the front bearing retainer again and take it into a good, local transmission shop. They've probably got a seal on the shelf and can change the thing for you in about 15 minutes and probably won't charge you much. Ask them if you can watch them do it. This way you'll get the job done properly for fair money and you'll get to see how it's done by a pro without fear of accidentally breaking something or ruining a new seal.
#9
Some of the early nosepieces had an o-ring only. On my '52 I had to buy a new nosepiece from Van Pelt sales: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/t...prices-pg1.htm
I had to order Front retainer # 78-7050 @ $40.00 ans Seal # 78-7052 @ $5.00.
I have a 3 sp light duty transmixer.
I had to order Front retainer # 78-7050 @ $40.00 ans Seal # 78-7052 @ $5.00.
I have a 3 sp light duty transmixer.
#10
Some of the early nosepieces had an o-ring only. On my '52 I had to buy a new nosepiece from Van Pelt sales: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/t...prices-pg1.htm
I had to order Front retainer # 78-7050 @ $40.00 ans Seal # 78-7052 @ $5.00.
I have a 3 sp light duty transmixer.
I had to order Front retainer # 78-7050 @ $40.00 ans Seal # 78-7052 @ $5.00.
I have a 3 sp light duty transmixer.
Why did you have to buy a new one? Was the nose itself damaged?
#11
BlueOvalRage--Thank you very much. I can't express how much, though. That is one of the best and most helpful answers I've ever gotten..
Fixnair--Albuq--I have a feeling you've lost me, hahahahahahaha
------------------------------------------------------
Here are a few pics. However, I never found a rubber seal. Did I look "over" it(miss it, is it disguised)? I can't even tell if one is there!
Once again, here are some pics, if you could point it out, that'd make things go a little faster....I looked in the manual, too...
They are cell pics, sorry, I have no camera, it's as good as it get's for me.
Thank you very much.
Fixnair--Albuq--I have a feeling you've lost me, hahahahahahaha
------------------------------------------------------
Here are a few pics. However, I never found a rubber seal. Did I look "over" it(miss it, is it disguised)? I can't even tell if one is there!
Once again, here are some pics, if you could point it out, that'd make things go a little faster....I looked in the manual, too...
They are cell pics, sorry, I have no camera, it's as good as it get's for me.
Thank you very much.
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