What would happen if you installed the spring on the step. I know it would increase pressure but would it make the injectors noiser. cause after I installed the frx and hpx their alot noiser. and have run the truck for 165 miles. so I think all the air would be out of the sys.

 

I realize this is an old thread, but it is full of great knowledge so why start a new one.

Last night I completed my install and I wanted to pass along a few "lesson's leaned" for those who don't wrench on their trucks all the time. My mistakes were easily avoidable, but since I made them, I wanted to share.

The Passenger Plug:
Sears now sells a set of 1/4" universal sockets for $12.99. The 5/16th universal was able to slip on the 4 pt plug and break it loose without rounding it. When fully loose, I slipped the socket off and removed it with my finger and some needle nose plyers.

Rear plug: same concept, but I had to go with a Stanley 1/4" rachet because it is smaller and would fit on the socket under the babies butt.

Threading the new plug in both locations were a challenge. You have to get them lined up just perfectly. With smaller hands and long fingers I was able to get the front plug started. An open end wrench was a slow way to tighten it down.

The real plug was a pain to see and really made me think it was the wrong size. It took me 20 minutes to get it lined up. I had to keep taking breaks because of my very ackward position.

*NOTE* Go to Harbor Freight and get a big moving blanket. Fold it several times for padding and lay it across your truck to protect you knees.

After the plugs were in, I was ready to mount the new FPR. I started removing the two 13mm bolts holding the fuel bowl on, I got the driver side bolt out released with ease. *Here is my mistake* I used the same ratching box wrench to back out the passenger side. Once it got out far enough, I couln't go further because the wrench was wedged between the still engaged bolt and the EBPS! *oh crap*

Thanks to some channel locks, I got the bolt back enough to remove the wrench an compelte with the low process of an open-end wrench. For ease, remove the belt and the EBPS

Installing the FPR wasn't hard, but not easy. Have a good pick on hand to remove the old Parker seal from the brass nut. Mine was in there really good.

Have a very good bungie cord to pull back the fuel return line, it's stout. Be careful with the spring. I put it in the plunger first because it holds better and because the machining of the FPR helps line up the spring in the center.

With the FPR complete, I tought I was home free... not exactly. Now you connect the FRx lines to the newly installed ports on the heads. The front passenger side was a breeze. I was able to line it up and get the threads to grab. Tightening it up takes time at 1/2 turn at a time.

The rear hose was longer then needed and forced me to be careful with rouging. Lining up the fitting and the nut, blind, took some effort. Again 20 mins of time.

After finally getting it all buttoned up, I primed the fuel bowl 6 times instead of the proposed 3-4. The truck fired up to check for leaks and noticed a leak at the fuel bowl lid seal.

I removed the lid to adjust and noticed I didn't see any fuel in the bowl. Does it drain out that fast with the FRx?

Primed the bowl another several times and fired up the turck again. This time I let it idle for 10-15 minutes to see if anything got moist or showed signs of leaking.

I stopped for the night without a test drive, because if it broke down, I couldn't get back home. I'll take it for a spin today, but so far no leaks.

Well, that's my story. The install wasn't difficult, but knowing these few points would have help prepared me and saved me some time. I don't know what, if any performance benefities I'll have, but we'll see.

Good luck to those wanting to do this mod. The building quality of the product is outstanding!