Thanks. I was thinking that because it was a little worse after I changed it. I'll probably try to pull it this afternoon and go and switch it out. I might take the ICU off and have them test it while i'm at it. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again!

 

Well I took the ICM and the distributor off friday when I got home from work. Upon inspection of the "re-manufactured" distributor, I noticed that the rubber boot on the PIP sensor was dirty with what looked like Arizona clay. I took them down to the auto parts store and had the ICM checked (multiple times) and it passed. They told me that they didn't have another distributor and I would have to go to another store about 15 miles away which had 2 of them. I get out there and the guy brings the first one out. The sensor looked better at first but while I was examining it, I noticed that a couple of the wires had black electrical tape on them wrapping them up. It sure didn't look like a new sensor, so I told him to bring the other one out. It looked pretty good, with the exception of a few metal shavings on the tip of the sensor, which I blew off with an air gun. Installed everything, fired it up, set the timing (with the SPOUT out) and drive it around. It actually used to have a miss a little bit when it warmed up. It runs better than ever now, not to jinx it, but I put around a tank of gas through it and started it multiple times. So i'm thinking that all that aggrivation wouldn't of happened if the auto parts store would of did the re-man job right the first time. They might of just bench tested the old sensor (and it was intermitent like my old one) and put it back into a box. Hopefully all fingers will be crossed and it will let me go for a while now. Point being, sometimes they auto part store will sell you bad parts. I guess it really does depend on how much you spend. I was ready to break down and buy a ECU (which I wouldn't of needed) all because of it. It stinks but that's what good information can help you out with.

I would like to send a special thanks to subford for all his knowledge and help, which without it, I would of probably kicked myself in the *** for taking it to a shop and it being something so simple. He is definately one of the most knowledgable people that i've ever came across. I'm passing you a virtual beer to show my appreciation. It says that I can't give any more rep until I give it someone else first or I would do that. Thanks again and if there is ever anything that I can help you with, just let me know. Now on to the next big problem (or series of smaller problems)! Thanks again!!!

 

Dude i had the same exact thing happen to mine. I detemined it was the "pickup coil" thats in the distributor...but in my case i had to replace the whole distributor because the gear was hard to get off in order to change the coil, so about an hour or so and 90 bucks for the distributor, shes all good and started fine ever since...just make sure you follow correct re-timing procedures...and you should be good...good luck man

 

It's running better than ever. I did follow the correct timing procedure, even though I had to use the #4 spark plug wire to time it because my balancer is all screwed up. I just wish that it didn't take two different distributors to get it right. Thanks!

 

It's doing it again! The truck was hard to start sunday, cranking for about 20 seconds, before it finally started and ran great. Yesterday, tried to start and nothing but cranking again. Checked for spark, nothing out of the coil. Checked the pulse to the coil with a test light, nothing again. If it's that darned dizzy again i'm going to put my foot up the part guys a$$! It's been running great with no problems at all for almost 3 weeks! I didn't have time to get into much troubleshooting yesterday so I couldn't be more thorough.

I checked the codes again but couldn't do a KOER test because I couldn't get it to run. lol. I got KOEO 565 (Canister purge circuit failure) and CM 172 (HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean (right side)) and 536 (Brake On/Off circuit failure / switch not actuated during KOER test). Both of the CM codes are showing as KOER but I never did that test. There is no indication of the PIP sensor throwing a code this time either. Would the O2 sensor keep the engine from throwing spark?

I'm at a loss and i'm not sure if I should start changing out parts again. I have continuity through all the wires that i'm supposed to so I don't think one is broken. I could try to get the physical resistance measurements of the wires to completely rule that out though. I can't believe that I would get that many bad distributors unless it's just really really poor workmanship. Is there anything that would make the PIP sensor go out electrically? It's starting to get to me. I have no idea why it won't just run good all the time (I know I ask for too much).

 

Make sure you are getting battery voltage at the distributor, if you are then get a AC volt meter and put it between the PIP wire and the Ignition Ground wire from the distributor.
Crank the engine and you should get between 3-6 VAC. if you do the PIP is good. If you do not get anything then the PIP is dead.

 

I should do this by probing the wires with my meter with all the connectors connected and the key on correct?

Should I also do this by probing the wires with everything connected? What does the PIP do exactally, take DC input and convert it to AC output when the blades are passed through the field or does it create it's own field of AC output current?


If there is voltage, will it pulse between 3-6VAC or be steady?

If this sensor is bad again, I think that i'm just going to go to Ford, get the part and replace it myself. I'm sick of getting bad parts from the junk auto parts depot. I'll try to check it out when I get off of work. Thanks yet again subford!

 

Yes that is correct.

Yes that is correct.

The first part of your question.
It takes the DC input and convert it to AC output when the blades are passed through the field.

It is a DC pulse but you would read it on the AC scale.

More information:


A tester I was going to make but it will show you how it works:


/

 

Alright, thanks! I'll see what I can find and let you know!

 

On the PIP voltage a correction:
DVOM on 20 volt AC scale.

Make sure SPOUT in-line connector is disconnected or the PCM disconnected.
You may also want to disconnect the ICM to get to the PIP test pin (J15).
Crank engine and measure voltage between (J15 in the diagram below) PIP wire and (J7 in the diagram below) B- wire Ground.
The voltage should be between 3.0 and 8.5 volts AC.



/

 

I have an auto ranging meter so I think that it will correct it to what ever scale I need. If not I can manually change the range.

Alright, so check for voltage between the incoming power wire and the ignition ground at the distributor when I turn the key on first. Then pull the SPOUT connector and check for AC voltage between the PIP wire and the battery ground. Sounds simple enough. I'll let you know!

 

You may have posted at the same time I updated (edited) the above post so you may want to hit reload at the top of your screen.

 

Ok got it. Then I won't have to poke holes in the wires. lol. Thanks subford!

 

Pull the coil wire off, clean the white corrosion crap off the end w/ sandpaper, clean out the plugwire end. Fill it up w/ dielectric grease & try that. I recently had one doing the same thing. The coil was overheating. You still may need a coil. If your firing order is 1-3... , you have a roller cam & needed the steel gear. '92&up 5.0 is supposed to be roller & '94&up 5.8.

 

Thanks for the info but the plugs, coil, wires, cap, rotor, and distributor are all new and di-electric greased up. I'm not getting a voltage pulse to fire the coil so that is most likely makeing it not fire.

The coil is new and all the resistance measurements on it are within the range of a good coil.

We covered this earlier in the thread also.

Thanks for trying to help though!