Recently, I replaced the ball joints on my '03 F-250 4x4. I have always worked on my own vehicles, and thanks to this post by Dave http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/35...ll-joints.html I was able to comfortably and easily complete the job. I took my truck to the local Firestone the next day (Saturday) and asked that they do an alignment, balance and rotate the tires, do an oil and lube job and inspect the truck. I told them that I was taking my family on a trip to Chicago (about 1500 miles round trip) and I wanted to make sure that the truck was roadworthy and safe.
This is the first problem (not bashing here) but replacing the ball joints you should have noticed the drag link (always inspect all front end parts when you replace one). Now on to the part about the chain stores, most responding posts are correct, these stores are manned by kids out of school and getting on the job training. Your correct a good mechanic would never had aligned the truck without checking it over first, 2nd the alignment rack would have alerted the mechanic to a problem.
Finialy, glad that you and your Family are ok.
You are absolutely correct. I should have checked the parts and found the problem myself. It was a dumb dumb move on my part after working a 12 hour shift and then doing the ball joints till midnight. The point of the post though is that I am not a trained, paid mechanic. It is their job to make sure that the truck was roadworthy and to perform the work in a timely and professional manner, which they did not. No offense taken BTW.
Good post and glad everything turned out well. I'll agree it's always a good idea to make sure the receipt matches what work should have been done, but I think the most important part of the story is that often times, your truck will give you signs something is wrong before complete failure.
If the slight vibration had occurred on a short trip to work, then it could have easily been put off till later. Then the gradual worsening, which would have been over days instead of miles, may not have been as noticeable, and that's where the bad stuff tends to happen.
If you think you notice something with your truck, that's the best time to check it out.
OP: Glad you're ok and things got fixed before a catastrophic failure.
Speaking of crooks, there are plenty in my area....
I went over to my neighbors house last night (has an '04 F250 6.0) and he started telling me about how his FICM module went out while he was out in the middle of nowhere. He had his truck towed to Tomball Ford where they fixed his truck for a nominal fee of $1200; after telling him his warranty ran out in April. They told him in order to replace the FICM, they had to remove the turbo, oil filter, fuel filter, intake, and a few other parts because the FICM was located in the valley of the engine and was "gear driven". When I showed him where the FICM was and that you only needed to remove the intake the get to it, well....
That's why a Ford dealer or any other mechanic will not touch my truck unless it's something I just can't do. Even then, that's what I have FTE for.
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This thread is precisely what I needed to see. I own a 2002, 7.3 STOCK. It has 124000 miles and is just now needing pads..........I take care of my truck. Regular oil changes (I do them), etc. Second set of tires and shocks (next I get Bilstein...didn't like the Monroes). Well, the dreaded front end rattle issues have come into play and I need to rebuild the front end; bushings, ball joints, etc.
I don't have the time to do it myself and need to take it to a GOOD, HONEST mechanic that is experienced with Ford truck suspensions here in the L.A. / San Diego corridor. Does anyone out there know of such a creature????
Multiple thanks.
Flat
PS: My brother and I are on the sidelines, getting ready to buy an 09/10. Issues with these guys?? I'll never sell my 7.3....love that truck!!!!
I don't have the time to do it myself and need to take it to a GOOD, HONEST mechanic that is experienced with Ford truck suspensions here in the L.A. / San Diego corridor. Does anyone out there know of such a creature????
I've had my truck and have been able to do all of the work myself. I'm so anal about it that I just bought some wheels and tires, and when they come in I'm taking them home and putting them on my truck myself!
As for mechanics, I don't know of any specific ones down here in San Diego. I'm sure there's some good ones in Santee (there are a lot of shops over there) but I haven't had any experience with them. As for dealerships, I drive out of my way to give El Cajon Ford my business. I've not put my truck in for service there, but everybody I've dealt with has been very nice and helpful (especially the parts guys ).
I know it's not much, but I hope this helps some.
EDIT: You might try calling these guys...Dion International Trucks, LLC. They are the fleet International truck parts and service guys for San Diego. They might be able to tell you who would do good work on your Super Duty.
__________________ THE MOOSE
2003 F-250 PSD 7.3 Lariat FX4 CC/SB, 4R100, 3.73LS, dual alternators with 188K+ Miles
AIH delete, In-Tank (ITP) and Harpoon Mod, SS HPX, 203F Thermo w/Billet Housing, FTVB, '08 Rear Diff Cover, Headlight Harness (GOS), Zoodad (King Style), 6637, Foil Delete, Engine/CAC boots (Dieselsite), Moog Ball Joints, BFG Mud-Terrain TA KM2 285/75-16
Real Men Redline Less Than 3500 RPM
Thanks for the quick response. I had taken my truck into Glendale Star Ford for this rattle issue for about a year and they told me there was nothing wrong. When I took it in this last time, they found EVERYTHING under the sun wrong with the suspension.......it has the appearance of HUNGER rather than honesty. Before when I took it in, they claimed it was tires out of balance.....the same tires???
At any rate thanks for the heads up on the people your way. I often fish in San Diego Bay from my kayak but I think it would be difficult to do the maintenance thing down there. I will contact your International people tomorrow and see what they have to say.
I find it so difficult to find an honest, knowledgeble and dedicated shop now days. Twenty years ago it seems people in So Cal were more honest. I am also real anal about my cars but in today's business climate I don't have the time.
How tough is it to replace the bushings and ball joints in the front end? Lots of cursing and swearing with bleeding knuckles?? Then once that's done, who aligns it??
I know..too many questions..Thanks again for your help. I appreciate it.
Flatinfifth, I would call www.ocdieselshop.com. Bud is the owner and a master Ford diesel mechanic for over 20 years. He left Tuttleclick Ford (I think) a year ago or so and started his own shop. This guy in an incredible job on rebuilding my 6.0l. He gave me many options, let me choose which ones, and was honest as could be.
I would recommend him for anything. He knows ford SDs like no other; engine, suspensions, and all. At least he could give you a contact if you are too far away, since he is in South Orange County. If you call him, tell him Chris w/the large blue f350 says 'hello'. No kickbacks for me, I'm just helping out someone who really knows his stuff. His place has been slammed busy since the day he opened his shop. I actually got his name from the head of the ford-trucks OC chapter, and couldn't have been happier. Good luck.
OC Diesel Shop 23854 Via Fabricante Suite G-4, Mission Viejo, Ca 92691 Phone: (949) 297-8477 FOR ALL SD DIESEL ENGINE/TRANS/SUSPENSION/ANYTHING
P.S. www.DependableOffroad.com in Anahiem does a darn good job, and they are honest, too. They (Steve) built my truck originally, in 2003, (before I owned it) and everythng is still holding together perfectly. Not bad for how big it is. The quality of their work speaks for itself. Steve is the owner and has been doing this since we were kids, in 1978.
Dependable Offroad 1542 N. State College Blvd. - Anaheim, California 714.774.1471 FOR ALL AFTERMARKET 4X4 INFO AND PARTS
As for trusting mechanics, that's a difficult one. I do most everything myself. Never became a master mechanic, but had 4 years of HS/college auto-mechanics, and doing it for 20 years since. I have a few other mechanics I trust; but these two are the guys I trust on my truck. If it's too big for me, then they are where I go.
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- 10.5" Donahoe Racing Springs / 39.5" IROKs / Dual Fox Shocks
- 4" Turbo Back SS Exhaust / ARP Headstuds / SS EGR Cooler
- Banks Intercooler-Intake / aFe Intake Filter
- Magnafine PS Filter / DieselSite Coolant Filter
- SCT X3 Custom Tunes from Eric @ Innovative
Last edited by figurhead; 10-23-2009 at 02:26 AM.
Reason: bad grammar & typos
That's why you have to get in bed with a really good guy, that you personally like and trust. I've been taking my vehicles to the same guy for years and have always been extremely happy. Find yourself a good mechanic and stick with him.
+1 on that! And, if I couldn't find a good local mechanic, the dealer is the next best option if your willing to pay the price.
I'll bet that Firestone has lost a good customer.
Tim
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How tough is it to replace the bushings and ball joints in the front end? Lots of cursing and swearing with bleeding knuckles?? Then once that's done, who aligns it??
I know..too many questions..Thanks again for your help. I appreciate it.
It took me two 8 hour days, but you can probably squeeze it into one. You might be able to do it quicker (I am slow and methodical for the most part), but you want some extra time set aside for any issues or complications. I also replaced all of my tie rods and drag links too.
I had mine aligned at my local Firestone.
One hint if you do the ball joints yourself: PB Blaster. I soaked all of the bolts and nuts I could get to the night before and morning of and had no issues removing anything for the job. Just my .02
__________________ THE MOOSE
2003 F-250 PSD 7.3 Lariat FX4 CC/SB, 4R100, 3.73LS, dual alternators with 188K+ Miles
AIH delete, In-Tank (ITP) and Harpoon Mod, SS HPX, 203F Thermo w/Billet Housing, FTVB, '08 Rear Diff Cover, Headlight Harness (GOS), Zoodad (King Style), 6637, Foil Delete, Engine/CAC boots (Dieselsite), Moog Ball Joints, BFG Mud-Terrain TA KM2 285/75-16
Real Men Redline Less Than 3500 RPM
One hint if you do the ball joints yourself: PB Blaster. I soaked all of the bolts and nuts I could get to the night before and morning of and had no issues removing anything for the job. Just my .02
Dude, no offense, but you live in So Cal. Things don't rust in So Cal. (BTDT) I hit everything with penetrating oil a few days before doing any suspension work, but if I didn't have a serious impact wrench, it really wouldn't matter...
Good adivce? Sure, but there are limits of where you live vs what results to expect.
__________________
- Dave
2005 F250 Lariat SuperCab Long Box 5.4 Auto 4x4
1999 Explorer AWD 5.0 4-door
__________________ -Marv- one of the Brotherhood
"Some of us pride ourselves on the money we've spent on our trucks,
and some of us on what we have NOT"
2000 F350 Lariat 7.3,A/T,CC,LB,4X4,SRW, CCV, Sonnax/springs, Dahl, spin-on trans filter, coolant filter, 6637 & cover, bypass oil, HPX. Email SpringerPop
i need to put in my 2 pennies here. for 1 my father is a 23 year firestone veteran. hes the shop manager here at the kent firestone by kent state university. hes been at every firestone in northeast ohio, hes ASE certified in every category except body work, and is continually renewing his certifications. now i understand, its my dad.
Firestone is a corporation, they employ thousands of mechanics, obviously theres going to be some bad grapes. ive never had anyone other than firestone work on my truck. my dad does always put his "best" guy on it, but never the less, it wasnt firestone that screwed up your truck. it was the mechanic and he had hell to pay for what he did to your truck. it just seemed you had a hate for firestone. they do have honest firestones out there.
I have an appointment with Bud tomorrow Friday at 9 AM. Hope to get most of the intense stuff done by him. I really have the knowledge but no time; I remember when I did, but it seems like such a long time ago. I did order a set of Bilstein HD's from Shockwarehouse.com and I"ll probably install those myself as the job is pretty straightforward. BTW....if you guys have never used it, Kroil is one heck of a bolt/nut/rust removing penetrating oil. I have had a gallon for the past fifteen years and probably still have half the can. Great stuff.
At any rate, my initial contact with them was great and professional. Thanks for the referral. I'll tell Bud you send him your regards.
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