OK, I've done a search on various combinations of the title of this post, I find just about everything, except info. on locating/changing the MAF!!
SO, for future searches, if one wants to know about this simple device, hopefully this post will provide all sorts of info.
My truck is definitely down on power. It starts/runs well, but when I drop the hammer...it drops something and just goes "OK"...that's about it.
I have a gameplan:
Disassemble all CAC hoses, lines, airbox/filter - basically everything to do with the intercooler up to the turbo. This will allow me to inspect the CAC hoses and get a good look at the wiring/harness connectors to the FICM, etc.
I will be looking for chafing and oil leaks from the ICP (as I have had TWO replaced under warranty) and anything else suspect.
I originally thought I had fuel pump/HFCM issues, but I purchased a new unit and replaced - no fix...my fault for not troubleshooting thoroughly.
SO, now that I'm out $300 on an "Easter Egg" hunt (replacing parts, basically throwing $$$$$$$ at the problem) - I'm looking for more information on the accessories/components I'll be inspecting.
First line of questions is WHERE is the MAF?? Is it in the typical position just after the air cleaner, where there's a harness connector?? Do we have a MAF unit or just the sensor that's replaced? Is there a good (and economical) source to get one?
I am going to purchase some MAF sensor spray cleaner tonight...as I've heard from various members that cleaning the sensor/MAF has solved some issues.
I am going to go through the VGT "relearn" procedure as I basically did this last week but did a simple disconnect of the batteries and didn't really follow a procedure after that...I didn't return the truck back to stock (have an SCT Livewire tuner), etc. I've printed the one out from this site so I'll follow it to a "T" this time.
I hope to find the source of my "down on power" issue this week, it's been almost if not at 100deg. the last two days so I'm not all that excited about standing on a stepstool and farting around with this truck...but I will definitely look into my issues over the next few days.
ANY help/advice/suggestions on what else I should look for or what I should consider replacing would be great. I have read posts, followed links and just pretty much edumakated myself for HOURS via this site - I've utilized and pretty much exhausted the search function. Sorry if this post IS a repetitive one but I'm attempting to get a dedicated MAF post started.
The MAF is right after the air fitler. There may be some trucks that have the smaller IAT sensor instead of the larger MAF sensor. The MAF will have a large rectangle plug and the smaller IAT sensor will have a short round connector.
And don't be surprised how expensive that little jewel is. Around 400 last time I priced it. It will throw a code just as soon as you unplug it. Try checking the EBP sensor and line and see if it's plugged up. It comes from the DS manifold up to just under the dipstick.
Have you had the truck to the dealer for any sort of service? The reason that I ask is that I went through the same type of search last year. I had taken my '04 to the dealer for an overboost condition. I only allowed them to work on it with the condition that they wouldn't reflash it. Anyway I left the dealer with a truck that was way down on power. They had replaced the MAP sensor on the first trip. They refused to believe that it was overboosting (P0299 code). Eventually after bringing the truck back with a trailer attached they agreed to data log it with the trailer. They did replace the turbo but still saying it was underboosting. I just shook my head and went my way.
Then I started looking for where my power went. I replaced the MAP sensor. Nothing. I was advised to disconnect the MAF sensor and take it for a drive. Felt better. Replaced the MAF sensor. Still not it. I had bought the AutoEnginuity software and was doing data logging to try and locate the problem. I did notice that the injection timing was in the negative numbers. After all of this I decided to see if the AE program would show me what the current flash was. It did and it showed the heat inductive flash which they promised me they wouldn't do. I thought my hearing was just not hearing the buzz flash anymore.
Well that ended the search for lost power. The service manager says that they didn't do the flash. Wrong. The truck has only been worked on by them. The tech did that to me for spite because he probably still believes that it was not overboosting. 40 psi on a mechanical guage is certainly overboosting.
The point in me asking if you have had ANY type of service done at a dealership is that a lot of dealers are reflashing trucks that come in even for an oil change. Without the customers knowledge or approval.
This is it...right? SO this is a MAF and not an AFM?? On my Porsche racecar this would be the AFM...not really sure I know the difference except the MAF looks electrical/electronic and the AFM on my Porsche is pretty much mechanical, a "barn door" style sensor.
...and is THIS the glow plug module??
If I've got this all hosed up, just tell me so...I can take it!
Can someone clarify the whereabouts of the EBP sensor and how to clean it out? I thought I recall reading about this last night but can't seem to find where it was!!
misterc, sorry, forgot to answer your question...NO, haven't had the truck in for service lately, I do all my own work except for two ICP replacements...last one was about a year ago.
I installed the 4" MBRP exhaust and SCT Livewire system in March I think...truck HAULED **** up until about 4 weeks ago.
I change flashes to tow my racecar trailer and then back to the MAX HP (Performance??) tune on the SCT. Only thing I did different on my last tow trip was to select the "Jake Brake" option via the SCT Livewire...pretty neat and LOTS of squeel from the turbo...wondering if I got that sucker too hot??
Again, in the next few days I am going to remove everything on the MAF side of the turbo to check it out, clean the MAF sensor and look into this EBP thingey...but need more clarification on that.
When all is done will do the "VGT relearn" procedure and see what I wind up with.
This is frustrating as it seems there are a good 15 things that could be wrong!! Turbo issues, injectors, MAF, EBP, HPOP, you name it. I need to install gauges but don't really have the spare $$$$$$$ at the moment - maybe I should've checked my fuel pressure before spending $300 on a new HFCM/pump, tools and filters!!??
You're batting 1.000 so far. The EBP sensor is on a small bracket, basically attached to the left front corner of the motor. If you look at the DS manifold where it comes out of #2 cylinder there is a fitting with a tube attached to it right on the top of the manifold in the curve, very similar in size to the dipstick tube. In fact it runs within 2" of and parallel to the dipstick tube.
Thanks for the clarification, I've spent AT LEAST an hour reading on this forum EVERY day when I get into work...I think I've learned TOO much and am confused as to what my issue is, but I'm gathering enough info. to keep me busy for an afternoon this week.
What is a "DS manifold"?? Is that "Down Side" or something in relative to the turbo/intercooler airflow path? Just guessing.
This truck IS confusing, it IS complicated but when it's all working great - WOW!!
OK, thanks...I am now officially on board with your acronymns!
I know where the EBP sensor is now, I have finally figured out the trick to searching...select "in title only" and that helps pinpoint what you're looking for, especially info. on EBP sensors!!
Now, after reading every post that came up in that search - what is involved with cleaning the tube?? ...it seems that people say this will not fix anything??
I believe that if you have the latest flash (inductive heating) it's taken out of the strategy anyway. As far as cleaning it goes it's only an empty tube. Loosen it from the manifold and sensor and blast it with carb cleaner or even compressed air. 5 or 10 minutes start to finish. Maybe a little PB blaster on the manifold end just in case of "heat corrosion".
Nope, I still have the "buzz flash" - got it about 2 years ago, maybe longer...still hear the "buzz" when I start the truck and shut it off...thinking I'll keep that unless I hear better advice on the new inductive heating flash.
Thanks for clarifying all the business associated with the EBP sensor...I actually went out to check it out, stood on my tow hook and checked it out, saw the 18" or so long "pipe" that went from the sensor to the manifold, I get it now!
SAY, if I DO get the next flash to remove the EBP from the system...can I use that port for the EBP sensor in the manifold for an EGT gauge?? I know, drilling/tapping is easy but man, wouldn't that be much EASIER??
NEW INFO: Decided to go out in the parking lot at work and do a few things...I hooked up the livewire and set it up to monitor IAT and MAF, both #s seemed to fluctuate, the IAT lowered as I drove it around the block and the MAF #s went into the 200s when I floored it.
What I'm noticing is more black smoke than usual. I would usually get a large plume when I nail it then it would go clear, seems I'm getting a bit more now?
I'm definitely going to go forward with taking things off the turbo and going from there.
QUESTION: regarding the turbo vein operation et al, if I can hear it cycling at idle (with the 4" exhaust can hear it VERY well) is this a good indication the veins are moving about correctly?? It will go quiet then get pretty loud with a turbo whistle and a rushing air sound...I kinda like it!
If this is a good indication of vein operation, do I need to even be concerned with the turbo or the actuator that I hear some of you have had replaced? Seems like if the veins weren't operating or stuck I would get a code?
Again, I appreciate all who are reading my incessant ramblings and chipping in with advice/suggestions. I will conquer this issue, I will do it...I will persevere!! ...I'm NOT going to let some Ford product kick my ****!!