I'd like to swap in a spare 390 I have into my 79 F150 4x4. I know that the FE was discontinued in 76. I have a manual tranny so I know I'll need to use an FE bellhousing and a rear sump oil pan. Since the frames are supposedly the same on F150 4x4 between 73-79 I gotta think that this shouldn't be a big deal. I haven't found any info so far though. Everybody is talking about swapping in a 385series motor to replace 335 series motors. Anybody? FE into Full sized 78-79 Bronco or 77-79 F150 4x4? Are engine stands for the 351M/400 different from the 360?
I am with John here, you should be able to swap the engine in with the correct engine perch. However the accessory mounting brackets will all be different, so you will need FE brackets for the power steering pump, alternator, etc.
1966 F100 4X2 428 4 and 3 sp. 2.75:1 rear
1965 Ford Mustang 351W/C4 auto
Looks like I have some nickel and dime issues. Either way I go, I'm rebuilding an engine. If I go FE, then I need to acquire an FE bellhousing, a rear sump oil pan an pickup, engine towers and a power steering bracket. I could raid my 2wd for most of the stuff, but that would leave me with a truck that doesn't run until I replace the stuff. I would also have to have exhaust work. Currently I have the stock Ypipe single exhaust with catalytic converter. I know that headers are made for both my 351M/400 including fender-well exits, as well as for FE engines in pre 77 models. I wonder about how I get pipe around my side gas tank unless I go with fender-well exit and run the exhaust outside of the frame rails. Looking at the drivers side, I can't imagine how a pipe squeezes from the collector inbetween the T-case, driveline and gas tank? Does a pipe have to make a hard turn under the bellhousing to the passenger side? I've not heard of fender-well exit headers for the FE engine, do they exist?
OK, I just did this irritating swap. First of all, if you're snagging a 2wd motor, watch out. Your engine perches will NOT work. You need 4wd FE engine perches, or alternatively, 4wd 300 six cylinder perches work (that's what I did).
But wait, there's more than NO ONE tells you on this site. You need to locate the front two bolt holes on the perches. By 'front' I mean the two holes that are closest to the radiator on each perch. They're on the vertical portion of the perch. OK, you will need to elongate the holes toward the firewall. This is so that you will be able to slide them slightly to line up the perches with the motor mounts. The perches will have to bolt to the 'front' two bolts on the spring towers. With the two bolts installed, you will have to weld the rest of the perch to the frame.
Now, if you used a 2wd motor, you will indeed need a rear sump pan and pickup tube. You'll also need the main cap bolt that supports the rear of the pickup tube. You will also need the 4wd dipstick tube. Now that you're that far along, you'll want to plug the old dipstick access. A 9mm Luger brass works very well. Clean the area well and apply a liberal amount of RTV and tap the shell casing into the hole.
OK, now that you've done THAT!,......you will have to decide if you're going to hunt for the ellusive vertical FE oil filter assembly or stick with your 2wd horizontal variation. If you stick with your horizontal assembly, let me save you a lot of time by telling you that a FRAM PH16 is a shorter version of the PH8 that you'd normally install. The PH8 is too long and interferes with the power steering box (or hard lines).
OK, when you get to this point, you are ready to rock and roll. She'll go right in. Hind sight being 20/20, I would have bought another 300 six to install and called it good, at half the price. But anyone could do that, right?
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