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Can't get the snap ring on 3 shims under locking hub

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Old 08-09-2009, 08:28 PM
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Can't get the snap ring on 3 shims under locking hub

Just installed a new hub and bearing on a 99 early 350 sd dually. I had to use the later 99 hub along with a new rotor to match, dealer says "old hubs obsolete". Along with that, replaced ball joints, everything went well up to getting the snap ring over the 3 spacer washers under the locking hub, i am about the thickness of 1 washer too much. I left the 3 washers in, installed the locking hub along with the large snap ring which went in perfect, can't figure out why only that there must be a slight difference in the later hub, only a guess.
If anyone has any suggestions, i would sure appreciate it. Thanks.
 
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Old 08-09-2009, 10:19 PM
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They should be the same hub size. Have somebody pry the stub axle in at the u-joint with a bar and push on the hub while you install the snap ring.
 
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Old 08-09-2009, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by EXv10
They should be the same hub size. Have somebody pry the stub axle in at the u-joint with a bar and push on the hub while you install the snap ring.
x2 on prying the axle shaft toward yourself while trying to get the snap ring in. Had to do that one mine a few months ago after doing ball joints.
 
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Old 08-10-2009, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 1975StroppeBaja
x2 on prying the axle shaft toward yourself while trying to get the snap ring in. Had to do that one mine a few months ago after doing ball joints.
Thanks, sounds like it's not uncommon for this to happen. I did try to pull the stub but didn't have another hand to see if the snap ring would go on. After thinking about it, I made "the tool", flange, 1.250 pipe and cut it down in the lathe. I was thinking when I drove the axle in with it, I should have stopped before seating and let the hub seat it and then the stub would be in the right place for the clip. What's your opinion on that. One other, I absolutely needed to have this project ready for today, I put it together with the 3 washers, no clip. If i run it like that for 200 mi, would it be safe for damage until I can pull it down and get the clip on. Thanks for your help.
 
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Old 08-10-2009, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 1975StroppeBaja
x2 on prying the axle shaft toward yourself while trying to get the snap ring in. Had to do that one mine a few months ago after doing ball joints.
x3. It's a tight fit. After I seated the axle in the differential housing and installed the knuckle and hub, the snap ring is just a little short of making it all the way across the axle splines (after installing the 3 shims). The trick is to use a small prybar behind the axle u-joint (between the axle joint and the axle housing...be careful not to damage your dust seal if it's not broken already) and pry the axle out a bit until you can get the snap ring to seat behind the splines. Don't be wimpy, it will take some decent force to move the axle far enough to get the snap ring on, but it will go on.

Originally Posted by Sonny Dee
Thanks, sounds like it's not uncommon for this to happen. I did try to pull the stub but didn't have another hand to see if the snap ring would go on. After thinking about it, I made "the tool", flange, 1.250 pipe and cut it down in the lathe. I was thinking when I drove the axle in with it, I should have stopped before seating and let the hub seat it and then the stub would be in the right place for the clip. What's your opinion on that. One other, I absolutely needed to have this project ready for today, I put it together with the 3 washers, no clip. If i run it like that for 200 mi, would it be safe for damage until I can pull it down and get the clip on. Thanks for your help.
I would not drive it without the snap ring installed. This helps keep the axle lined up with the knuckle and maintains proper distances. You may or may not damage it, but I wouldn't risk it. Plus you have to take everything apart to get to it to try again. The prybar trick works and is a cinch. Just make sure you put some muscle into it and don't be afraid to really pry on the axle.

Also, with the hub to knuckle seal (the one that you drive on with the special tool). You need to drive the seal on completely with the tool. It's a really tight fit on the axle and I don't know if it will "seat itself" if you don't do it first (and if it doesn't, your ESOF won't lock the hubs). I just replaced ball joints and drove the seal on the axle with the Home Depot special tool, installed the axles, knuckle and hub. Then I used a prybar and got the 3 spacers on and the snap ring (like I said, you will have to pry pretty hard to get the axle out far enough to get the snap ring on, but it will go). Buttoned everything back up and my ESOF works the hubs with no issues.

Stick with it and you'll get it done. You'll be glad that you got it when it's 2 days from now and you don't have to tear back into it to finish!
 
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Old 08-10-2009, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by brian42
x3. It's a tight fit. After I seated the axle in the differential housing and installed the knuckle and hub, the snap ring is just a little short of making it all the way across the axle splines (after installing the 3 shims). The trick is to use a small prybar behind the axle u-joint (between the axle joint and the axle housing...be careful not to damage your dust seal if it's not broken already) and pry the axle out a bit until you can get the snap ring to seat behind the splines. Don't be wimpy, it will take some decent force to move the axle far enough to get the snap ring on, but it will go on.


I would not drive it without the snap ring installed. This helps keep the axle lined up with the knuckle and maintains proper distances. You may or may not damage it, but I wouldn't risk it. Plus you have to take everything apart to get to it to try again. The prybar trick works and is a cinch. Just make sure you put some muscle into it and don't be afraid to really pry on the axle.

Also, with the hub to knuckle seal (the one that you drive on with the special tool). You need to drive the seal on completely with the tool. It's a really tight fit on the axle and I don't know if it will "seat itself" if you don't do it first (and if it doesn't, your ESOF won't lock the hubs). I just replaced ball joints and drove the seal on the axle with the Home Depot special tool, installed the axles, knuckle and hub. Then I used a prybar and got the 3 spacers on and the snap ring (like I said, you will have to pry pretty hard to get the axle out far enough to get the snap ring on, but it will go). Buttoned everything back up and my ESOF works the hubs with no issues.

Stick with it and you'll get it done. You'll be glad that you got it when it's 2 days from now and you don't have to tear back into it to finish!
Thanks for that info, I made the home depot special, took the flange to work and cut to fit and faced it square, worked well. Seal is all the way home, no ESOF, manual all the way. All went well until the washers and clip. I tried to pry the shaft and expected it to stay so now I'll get help to pry the shaft while I put the clip on. I'm also thinking to replace the hubs with Warn, have to use the universal vice grips to lock in the hubs and I can only imagine what Fraud would want for new ones. Thanks again.
 
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Old 08-10-2009, 03:03 PM
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For what Ford wants for new hubs, you could probably get Warn Premiums for not much more (I don't know if the manual hub is cheaper that the ESOF hub).
 
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Old 08-10-2009, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by brian42
For what Ford wants for new hubs, you could probably get Warn Premiums for not much more (I don't know if the manual hub is cheaper that the ESOF hub).

Tnx, researching it as we speak.
 
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Old 08-10-2009, 04:27 PM
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Never run the truck with no snap ring! You are much better off leaving out a washer. It is very possible the your knuckle seal is not seated correctly.
 
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Old 08-10-2009, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by EXv10
Never run the truck with no snap ring! You are much better off leaving out a washer. It is very possible the your knuckle seal is not seated correctly.

Anything is possible, drove the seal on the axle with the proper tool and it bottomed on the shaft, used the same tool to insert the seal into the knuckle and that bottomed. Knuckle housing was shiny clean when I finished polishing it up along with the shaft. I highly doubt the seal not being correct but anything is possible. Taking today off, too hot and will get back on it Wed and try prying the shaft up. Thanks for your advice.
 
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Sonny Dee
Anything is possible, drove the seal on the axle with the proper tool and it bottomed on the shaft, used the same tool to insert the seal into the knuckle and that bottomed. Knuckle housing was shiny clean when I finished polishing it up along with the shaft. I highly doubt the seal not being correct but anything is possible. Taking today off, too hot and will get back on it Wed and try prying the shaft up. Thanks for your advice.
Don't run it with no snap ring!
 
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by EXv10
Don't run it with no snap ring!


Got it, tnx.
 
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Sonny Dee
Anything is possible, drove the seal on the axle with the proper tool and it bottomed on the shaft, used the same tool to insert the seal into the knuckle and that bottomed. Knuckle housing was shiny clean when I finished polishing it up along with the shaft. I highly doubt the seal not being correct but anything is possible. Taking today off, too hot and will get back on it Wed and try prying the shaft up. Thanks for your advice.
That's exactly what I did. After it was all back in and hub was on, put the prybar behind the axle (at the dust seal/axle housing), muscled it to pry it out through the hub a bit and the snap ring went on.
 
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Old 08-10-2009, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by brian42
That's exactly what I did. After it was all back in and hub was on, put the prybar behind the axle (at the dust seal/axle housing), muscled it to pry it out through the hub a bit and the snap ring went on.
Ok but I didn't plan on grabbing it at the dust cover, that's new and do you think I'd bitch it up with a flat bar. I know that's a good leverage point but I was thinking about between the yoke on the uv joint.
Is there a way I can grab it at the dust cover???
 
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Old 08-10-2009, 07:43 PM
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I read a post in here where the axle was catching on the lip of the seal so it wouldn't come out far enough.
 


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