Can't get the snap ring on 3 shims under locking hub
#1
Can't get the snap ring on 3 shims under locking hub
Just installed a new hub and bearing on a 99 early 350 sd dually. I had to use the later 99 hub along with a new rotor to match, dealer says "old hubs obsolete". Along with that, replaced ball joints, everything went well up to getting the snap ring over the 3 spacer washers under the locking hub, i am about the thickness of 1 washer too much. I left the 3 washers in, installed the locking hub along with the large snap ring which went in perfect, can't figure out why only that there must be a slight difference in the later hub, only a guess.
If anyone has any suggestions, i would sure appreciate it. Thanks.
If anyone has any suggestions, i would sure appreciate it. Thanks.
#3
x2 on prying the axle shaft toward yourself while trying to get the snap ring in. Had to do that one mine a few months ago after doing ball joints.
#4
Thanks, sounds like it's not uncommon for this to happen. I did try to pull the stub but didn't have another hand to see if the snap ring would go on. After thinking about it, I made "the tool", flange, 1.250 pipe and cut it down in the lathe. I was thinking when I drove the axle in with it, I should have stopped before seating and let the hub seat it and then the stub would be in the right place for the clip. What's your opinion on that. One other, I absolutely needed to have this project ready for today, I put it together with the 3 washers, no clip. If i run it like that for 200 mi, would it be safe for damage until I can pull it down and get the clip on. Thanks for your help.
#5
Thanks, sounds like it's not uncommon for this to happen. I did try to pull the stub but didn't have another hand to see if the snap ring would go on. After thinking about it, I made "the tool", flange, 1.250 pipe and cut it down in the lathe. I was thinking when I drove the axle in with it, I should have stopped before seating and let the hub seat it and then the stub would be in the right place for the clip. What's your opinion on that. One other, I absolutely needed to have this project ready for today, I put it together with the 3 washers, no clip. If i run it like that for 200 mi, would it be safe for damage until I can pull it down and get the clip on. Thanks for your help.
Also, with the hub to knuckle seal (the one that you drive on with the special tool). You need to drive the seal on completely with the tool. It's a really tight fit on the axle and I don't know if it will "seat itself" if you don't do it first (and if it doesn't, your ESOF won't lock the hubs). I just replaced ball joints and drove the seal on the axle with the Home Depot special tool, installed the axles, knuckle and hub. Then I used a prybar and got the 3 spacers on and the snap ring (like I said, you will have to pry pretty hard to get the axle out far enough to get the snap ring on, but it will go). Buttoned everything back up and my ESOF works the hubs with no issues.
Stick with it and you'll get it done. You'll be glad that you got it when it's 2 days from now and you don't have to tear back into it to finish!
#6
x3. It's a tight fit. After I seated the axle in the differential housing and installed the knuckle and hub, the snap ring is just a little short of making it all the way across the axle splines (after installing the 3 shims). The trick is to use a small prybar behind the axle u-joint (between the axle joint and the axle housing...be careful not to damage your dust seal if it's not broken already) and pry the axle out a bit until you can get the snap ring to seat behind the splines. Don't be wimpy, it will take some decent force to move the axle far enough to get the snap ring on, but it will go on.
I would not drive it without the snap ring installed. This helps keep the axle lined up with the knuckle and maintains proper distances. You may or may not damage it, but I wouldn't risk it. Plus you have to take everything apart to get to it to try again. The prybar trick works and is a cinch. Just make sure you put some muscle into it and don't be afraid to really pry on the axle.
Also, with the hub to knuckle seal (the one that you drive on with the special tool). You need to drive the seal on completely with the tool. It's a really tight fit on the axle and I don't know if it will "seat itself" if you don't do it first (and if it doesn't, your ESOF won't lock the hubs). I just replaced ball joints and drove the seal on the axle with the Home Depot special tool, installed the axles, knuckle and hub. Then I used a prybar and got the 3 spacers on and the snap ring (like I said, you will have to pry pretty hard to get the axle out far enough to get the snap ring on, but it will go). Buttoned everything back up and my ESOF works the hubs with no issues.
Stick with it and you'll get it done. You'll be glad that you got it when it's 2 days from now and you don't have to tear back into it to finish!
I would not drive it without the snap ring installed. This helps keep the axle lined up with the knuckle and maintains proper distances. You may or may not damage it, but I wouldn't risk it. Plus you have to take everything apart to get to it to try again. The prybar trick works and is a cinch. Just make sure you put some muscle into it and don't be afraid to really pry on the axle.
Also, with the hub to knuckle seal (the one that you drive on with the special tool). You need to drive the seal on completely with the tool. It's a really tight fit on the axle and I don't know if it will "seat itself" if you don't do it first (and if it doesn't, your ESOF won't lock the hubs). I just replaced ball joints and drove the seal on the axle with the Home Depot special tool, installed the axles, knuckle and hub. Then I used a prybar and got the 3 spacers on and the snap ring (like I said, you will have to pry pretty hard to get the axle out far enough to get the snap ring on, but it will go). Buttoned everything back up and my ESOF works the hubs with no issues.
Stick with it and you'll get it done. You'll be glad that you got it when it's 2 days from now and you don't have to tear back into it to finish!
#7
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#8
#10
Anything is possible, drove the seal on the axle with the proper tool and it bottomed on the shaft, used the same tool to insert the seal into the knuckle and that bottomed. Knuckle housing was shiny clean when I finished polishing it up along with the shaft. I highly doubt the seal not being correct but anything is possible. Taking today off, too hot and will get back on it Wed and try prying the shaft up. Thanks for your advice.
#11
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Anything is possible, drove the seal on the axle with the proper tool and it bottomed on the shaft, used the same tool to insert the seal into the knuckle and that bottomed. Knuckle housing was shiny clean when I finished polishing it up along with the shaft. I highly doubt the seal not being correct but anything is possible. Taking today off, too hot and will get back on it Wed and try prying the shaft up. Thanks for your advice.
#13
Anything is possible, drove the seal on the axle with the proper tool and it bottomed on the shaft, used the same tool to insert the seal into the knuckle and that bottomed. Knuckle housing was shiny clean when I finished polishing it up along with the shaft. I highly doubt the seal not being correct but anything is possible. Taking today off, too hot and will get back on it Wed and try prying the shaft up. Thanks for your advice.
#14
Is there a way I can grab it at the dust cover???