Replacing the Cab Mounts on the Frame
#1
Replacing the Cab Mounts on the Frame
When I took the cab off of my 77 F150, I realized the cab mounts on the FRAME were eaten up and now I have oddly shaped holes twice the size of what are supposed to be there--no way will the new bushings mount to these. I can't find replacement ones anywhere...if I could, I would just grind off the rivets and bolt the new ones on. Any ideas on where I can buy replacements? I have someone trying to weld new metal in to my originals and cut new holes, but if not done right, that's asking for a lot of new problems. Thanks!!!
#2
Bronco Graveyard sells "frame savers" essentially its just a big washer that you weld in the rusted out hole on the cab mount bracket. If you can't weld i would just cut the rivets off the brackets and take them to someone to have the washers welded in. I removed mine to take them to work where i have access to a larger welder than my little millermatic. Here are pictures of mine:
Before
After
Before
After
#5
I did the 4 large ones for $4.13! Aren't the "Frame Savers" $8 a piece?!?!
There's a bolt and screw company right across the street from where I work that has EVERYTHING fastener related in stock. I got some perfect washers there. I think they were 3"' o.d. washers is all, plain mild steel and and finish, the center hole is actually a little bit smaller then the stock hole, and bigger then the rubber locating ring on the isolators. And the washers are the same thickness as the frames outriggers.
I weld as a part of my job, and I know when two steel alloys are not welding compatable without following proper procedure. The washers I used and the outriggers are compatable alloys.
McMaster Carr probably has them. For those that don't know, McMaster Carr is an industrial supply company, like Grainger, only MUCH, MUCH better. McMaster Carr has FAR more stuff available and the service and prices are excellent. Their online catalog is exactly the same as their real catalog, page for page, item for item, word for word. The catalog is about 3500 pages long of small print, thin paper, with no glossy BS photos, and a wealth of information given related to each category of items. If you just got the catalog and read it, your I.Q. would go up 30 points in a month.
Don't stick me with Grainger because of the glossy advertisement people. McMaster Carr is superior by far.
Sorry for the aside rant. And I am in no way affiliated with McMaster Carr.
There's a bolt and screw company right across the street from where I work that has EVERYTHING fastener related in stock. I got some perfect washers there. I think they were 3"' o.d. washers is all, plain mild steel and and finish, the center hole is actually a little bit smaller then the stock hole, and bigger then the rubber locating ring on the isolators. And the washers are the same thickness as the frames outriggers.
I weld as a part of my job, and I know when two steel alloys are not welding compatable without following proper procedure. The washers I used and the outriggers are compatable alloys.
McMaster Carr probably has them. For those that don't know, McMaster Carr is an industrial supply company, like Grainger, only MUCH, MUCH better. McMaster Carr has FAR more stuff available and the service and prices are excellent. Their online catalog is exactly the same as their real catalog, page for page, item for item, word for word. The catalog is about 3500 pages long of small print, thin paper, with no glossy BS photos, and a wealth of information given related to each category of items. If you just got the catalog and read it, your I.Q. would go up 30 points in a month.
Don't stick me with Grainger because of the glossy advertisement people. McMaster Carr is superior by far.
Sorry for the aside rant. And I am in no way affiliated with McMaster Carr.
#6
I just made my "frame Savers" out of some frame steel i had laying around. Took me about 20 min per side to make and weld in. Used a hole saw to make the new bushing holes.
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#7
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#11
I agree. They wouldn't even have to look like the originals, just get the dimensions right and there ya go. People would probably pay a little more if the steel was a little more "beefier" so they don't rust out as much.
#12
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