Troubleshooting a No-Start condition

[bismic]

I have been working on this for awhile. Thought I would post it now and add to it as necessary. Troubleshooting a NO-START: Pull diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) if you can (you can have codes without a Check Engine Light). Automatic transmission fully in PARK or NEUTRAL? If manual, clutch pedal fully pressed? If manual, clutch pedal fully pressed? Battery connections (including ground) - all good? Starter relay connections - all good? Glow plug connectors making good connection? Is the starter engaging? Verify starter and ignition switch are working properly. Load test BOTH batteries and check the charging system (alternator). Fusible links and fuses OK? The FICM relay is labled IDM Relay #304. Check it specifically. Could a factory or aftermarket anti-theft device be causing the problem (Passive Active Theft System - PATS)? Disconnect it if possible. Push the reset on the emergency fuel cut-off switch. Any oil pressure registering on the dash pressure gauge (low pressure system)? If not, it could be a bad oil pump (LPOP), a oil filter drain valve stuck open, or a bad oil pressure regulator. Check PCM and FICM connections - any wire chaffing? Any Injector harness chaffing? Any ICP or IPR harness chaffing? More detail below. Verify that the oil level is correct and the proper oil and filter have been installed. Verify that the air filter is not plugged. Inspect the ICP sensor and harness. Is it oil soaked. Disconnect the ICP and try again. Make sure the harness is on securely. Change both fuel filters, inspect appearance of the fuel when draining the water separator, makes sure the air is purged. Follow the proper air purge (KOEO) cycling procedure before cranking. Check for leaks in the fuel system (fuel leaks at connections AND air leaking into the fuel system) and verify that the upper fuel filter is being filled. If you can, verify the fuel pressure. Must be over 45 psig. Pull the oil filter top and have someone crank it while you watch to see if any oil is flowing into the filter housing. If not then it is a LPO problem. If possible, verify high pressure oil pressure (ICP sensor) - must be over 500 psig to fire the injectors. See link below. Pull the EGR valve and inspect. Clean if dirty. Check the strength of the spring. Consider replacing it - just because. Also clean the MAP sensor hose and the EBP tube. Thesee may cause surging and hard start, but a long shot for a no-start. Troubleshoot the glow plug system (you need a clamp on inductive ammeter). Test each module wire bundle separately, then test each glow plug. Look for any amperages lower on one side or lower to an individual glow plug. Carry out the KOEO Injector Electrical Self-Test (Click Test) Wire Chaffing Locations: http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...1&d=1208412696 FICM and ICP harness recall http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-13.php http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-11.php mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech12_250k.wmv Determinimg if the ICP sensor is seeing 500 psig minimum: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/866900-2006-6-0l-w-35k-miles-will-not-start.html Here is a way of checking to see if you have sufficient high pressure oil without having a gauge or adapter. Strip back the wires about an inch away from the icp sensor connector. Obtain a digital multimeter and set it for voltage (DC). The bn-wh wire is a five volt reference, leave that alone. Strip back the db-lg signal wire and the gy-rd ground wire. Put positive lead on a dark blue-light green wire and negative lead on gray-red wire. Have an assistant crank truck, you need a minimum of 0.80 volts (500 psi) for the truck to start, if you are getting greater than that then you have sufficient high pressure oil. Hard start - no start conditions related to the HPOP could be attributed to the following components in the high poressure oil system (air test while hot will determine the root cause): http://www.*****************.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11583&page=2 Leaking snap-to-connect (STC) fitting Leaky or cracked branch tube Leaky or cracked oil rail (including oil rail end caps/plugs) Leaky o-ring on an injector HPOP itself Also, check the Crank (CKP) and Cam (CMP) sensor wiring harnesses.

[bismic]

Maxium4x4 - thanks for putting this in the Tech Folder. I think w/ some input from the site Techs, this can be a very useful thread. Seems like quite a few "no-starts" lately.

One thing I left off (on item no. 13) is that no pressure registering on the gauge panel could also be a bad pressure sensor. The PCM needs to see a minimum of 5 psig oil pressure for the engine to start.

I believe that also means that the engine will die if the PCM sees the LPO pressure drop below 5 psig. Can someone confirm this?

Also, what troubleshooting techniques could a person use to identify a bad oil pressure sensor? Say they were stranded on the highway?

The main reason I started this thread was to help a person rule out the easy things before taking the truck in for repairs. However, just recently, D8chumley helped diagnose a no-start condition for a friend while he was on a trip (turned out to be a HPO problem). Even though the friend could not do the repair on the side of the road, it is still helpful to know the cause of the problem when you are in a location where you do not know the reputation of the repair shops.

The more input and troubleshooting techniques we can pack into this thread, the better!

[npccpartsman]

Originally Posted by bismic

One thing I left off (on item no. 13) is that no pressure registering on the gauge panel could also be a bad pressure sensor. The PCM needs to see a minimum of 5 psig oil pressure for the engine to start.

I believe that also means that the engine will die if the PCM sees the LPO pressure drop below 5 psig. Can someone confirm this?

Also, what troubleshooting techniques could a person use to identify a bad oil pressure sensor? Say they were stranded on the highway?

I'm not sure where you got this information but I've never been able to find anything that the PCM reads low pressure oil from. By looking at the wiring diagram it's nothing but a resistance switch that goes directly to the dash panel. I think that's why you have to tap directly into a low pressure oil galley to use a manual gauge. The LPO is like a safety in itself. If you have no low oil pressure then the HPOP has no oil to fire the injectors anyway and it won't start.

[Maxium4x4]

Great information Bismic, here is the low pressure oil test procedure.

Using a suitable adapter (such as Aeroquip® 2022-4-4S), install it in the engine oil pressure sensor hole to carry out the base oil pressure test.

Install gauge to check the base oil pressure. The minimum engine oil pressure specifications are 82.7 kPa (12 psi) at 700 rpm, 165.5 kPa (24 psi) at 1,200 rpm and 310.3 kPa (45 psi) at 1,800 rpm with the engine at operating temperature.

[D8chumley]

Excellent job Mark. I might just have to print this out and keep it in the truck with me! * Wish I could rep ya*

[juneau76]

Great info as always, Mark. Thanks.

[D8chumley]

Hey Mark, the first link to the diesel garage is just a picture of a pretty black truck. Just wanted to let you know

[william_04_x]

Originally Posted by npccpartsman

I'm not sure where you got this information but I've never been able to find anything that the PCM reads low pressure oil from. By looking at the wiring diagram it's nothing but a resistance switch that goes directly to the dash panel. I think that's why you have to tap directly into a low pressure oil galley to use a manual gauge. The LPO is like a safety in itself. If you have no low oil pressure then the HPOP has no oil to fire the injectors anyway and it won't start.

correct... the PCM doesn't use LPO pressure data.. it's just a switch for the gauge in the cluster...

looks like another great addition to the tech folder Mark..

[bismic]

Originally Posted by npccpartsman

I'm not sure where you got this information but I've never been able to find anything that the PCM reads low pressure oil from. By looking at the wiring diagram it's nothing but a resistance switch that goes directly to the dash panel. I think that's why you have to tap directly into a low pressure oil galley to use a manual gauge. The LPO is like a safety in itself. If you have no low oil pressure then the HPOP has no oil to fire the injectors anyway and it won't start.

Thanks for the clarification. My reference for this is very old, good to know the "stratight scoop".

Any other additions? Any way to make this more useful?

[npccpartsman]

The only other question I have or addition is if all year models will register oil pressure on the dash gauge in a long crank/ no start condition when the complete oil system is known to be sealed.

I now know what coltshrike's oil pressure problem is and I'll post it in his thread. HPO leak.

[ford4x4956]

where is the the emergency fuel cut off switch on the 2005 6.0?

[D8chumley]

You'll have to check your owners manual, but mine is behind the kick panel on the pass. side floor area. I think... I better check myself.

[KRDiesel]

nice Job Mark. Tried to rep you, BUT

[ford4x4956]

so if my ICP sensor reading is less than .80 volts then i dont enough HPOP pressure? do i still have to check the IPR valve if it have less than .80 volts? is it noticeable if the STC fitting is leaking

once i take the HPOP cover off??....sorry for all the questions but im trying to fix it myself and on a low budget ........................

[bismic]

This post is correcting the first link under the "Wire Chaffing" topic.

The link was broken when the forums database was "hacked". Now, the proper link is:
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...ad.php?t=58336

Also, for the video link posted earlier (and will re-post below), you need to copy the link and paste it in your browser.
mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech12_250k.wmv

I am now trying to find the proper link to replace the broken one under the HPO system section.