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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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  #1  
Old 08-04-2009, 09:58 PM
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Manual locking hub question!

Sorry for all the posts lately... I try to help as much as I ask to make up for it.


I did ball joints on my 88 F-150 with manual locking hubs the other day. It was the first time I took apart a 4x4 hub and I messed up...I took the lock apart on the one side. Is it ok to drive without it in the axle? I want to pull it out and take it somewhere to have it put back together, cause I dont know how to put that spring back in the right way. It doesnt lock right now and id like to have that option available when it snows... Im a southern boy and snow isnt my thing... Heh.

For the record.. Even without rust it took me 8 hours to do the joints. I dont think I ever want to do this again but next time itll only take me 4 hours (flat rate time). Its quite simple once you know what needs to be done.
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:56 AM
quaddriver quaddriver is offline
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the spring that goes in the 'basket' and wants to push the ring gear 'outwards'?

order of assembly:

inner bearing and seal on hub, hub on spindle

outer bearing in hub now

retained by one of 2 options: a ratcheing style locknut, or a locknut, pinned locating washer and jam nut

then basket, held in by outer 3" round piece of wire inside a groove in the hub, and externally expanding snap ring holding the basket with respect to the axle stub shaft.

then the spring goes in.

then the ring gear.

then a small screw that kinda holds in the ring gear

then the 4x4 '****', i.e. the lockout part of the lockout hub

6 little screws to hold it all in
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Old 08-05-2009, 09:26 AM
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Thats not quite it.

The 'basket' is in, no problems. There is that big 4 inch coiled spring that goes into the center and the "ring gear?" goes in front of that. Then, There is something thats like a flat wire coil (this is what I originally removed and screwed up when I was trying to take the hub apart then I happened to notice the lock ring on the outside diameter). I think that locks in the ring gear thing.. But in front of that is the snap ring on the axle shaft.

Right now I have everything pushed in and locked but it isnt right because the hub doesnt engage. Id pull apart the passenge side one to check it but I dont really want to mess that one up too. I mean, I can, but if it doesnt work in my favor I will have to get 2 put back together.

p.s. My truck doesnt have the screw that holds in the ring gear.
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Old 08-05-2009, 02:18 PM
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got a pic? I have a basket apart in the shop and perhaps can snap a pic later tonight, but show me what u got
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Old 08-05-2009, 03:27 PM
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Alright. Here are some pics. I took the middle part of the hub out but not the 'basket' or snap ring because I didnt want to get full of grease today. I took a pic of the hub but im sure you know what it looks like. I also took one of the spring, the gear, and the metal washer/wire coil thingy that I have no idea what it is.




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Old 08-05-2009, 04:50 PM
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The part your finger is under goes around the drive axle, reach in behind the spindle and push on the U-joint so the axle protrudes out of the hub as much as possible, you should then see an gap in the splines on the drive axle where this split ring will sit.

And the gear piece to the left in the pic, the side that is up should go to the inside of the hub.
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Old 08-05-2009, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conanski View Post
The part your finger is under goes around the drive axle, reach in behind the spindle and push on the U-joint so the axle protrudes out of the hub as much as possible, you should then see an gap in the splines on the drive axle where this split ring will sit.
There is a snap ring in that spot holding the axle shaft from sliding.....

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Originally Posted by Conanski View Post
And the gear piece to the left in the pic, the side that is up should go to the inside of the hub.
I know how it goes in, the problem is getting that to lock in with the spring in there to be able to make my 4wd work again. I know how it goes together, just not how.
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:54 PM
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Volvo, just curious, are these original hubs or aftermarket? This may be a good time to replace the originals with aftermarket locking hubs, MileMarker or Warn. I did the swap after several problems getting my '90 locking hubs to lock. The darn red dials wore where the screw goes in and after awhile on my severly hurting knees, I said there had to be a simpler way.

IT may also be worth your while to jack up the pass. side and dissassemble the hub, slowly, even pictures help as you progress, pen and paper, ascending direction of dissassembly with someway of laying each part out in numbered sequence. After my 1st mistake with locking hubs, I made sure that each and every time, I numbered and marked each piece and it's oreintation, even drawing a crude schematic of the disassembly.
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Old 08-05-2009, 11:29 PM
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Hey Timber, supposedly these arent the original. Dont ask me how or why but, when my uncle got this truck he bought it from a gator trapper. The trapper had locking hubs from a Ford Ranger in there. Also, my hubs are not worn.. There is nothing wrong with them except that I took the one side apart and cannot get it back together. All I asked is if it was ok to drive without the locks in there so I can take it to a shop and have it put back together. I cant get an answer. I know how it goes together, I just cant get it together. Also, the hub lock is removable without jacking up the truck. Its a cool little thing.
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Old 08-06-2009, 12:10 AM
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yanno, that spiral thing, looks like the spirals that hold the basket inner and outer together (I know this cuz I had to rebuild one a few months ago)

if it came off, u have issues as something likely caught on it.
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Old 08-06-2009, 12:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quaddriver View Post
if it came off, u have issues as something likely caught on it.
I pulled it out by accident.. This was after I took the snap ring off and before I found the outer diameter ring. Haynes doesnt say too much about the outer ring.. Just to remove it. So, I was busy poking around. I figured it all out just a bit too late.
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Old 08-06-2009, 07:24 PM
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As long as you have all the retainer springs and the axle nuts on properly, you can drive it with those parts not on it.
I have broken enough hubs out on the trail and always made it back safely. I have since started carrying spare hubs.
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Old 08-06-2009, 07:34 PM
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Thank you 2Fords. Yes, everything in the hub is together and torqued so its drivable. I just wanted to make sure it was ok to drive with the switch out. I assumed it was ok since everything else is together and is greased but I wanted to make sure.
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Old 08-06-2009, 08:16 PM
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Hey volvo, didn't mean to stray from your previous posting's. Yes is the answer as 2fords stated. hope all goes well.
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Old 05-10-2011, 12:28 PM
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im having same problem i have a 95 f150 with 79 bronco dana 44s with manual locking hubs i took the hub apart plenty of times but when i was driving my hub snout snapped off and some gears and other inside parts are now missing and i cant seem to remember how it goes back in, i need everything from right behind the rotor where that seal and bearing is all the way on out to the cap, basicaly where do i get the parts and how does it all go back together?
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Old 05-10-2011, 12:28 PM
 
 
 
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