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Is F-150 Still King?
 
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2009, 10:50 AM
vloney vloney is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black1 View Post
I've done 11K miles since deleting the EGR cooler. The cooler had failed completely (second time) - exhaust full of coolant - so the option was delete or replace. I am not running any sort of tuner. The truck now runs as good as new. NO hinky driveability issues whatsoever. Completely transparent.

I'm beginning to have faith in the truck again. With two EGR cooler failures I was ready to set fire to the whole thing. With that engineering disaster properly installed in a dumpster where it belongs the truck runs fine.

Current mileage 146K.

Again, my ONLY regret in deleting the EGR cooler is that I didn't do it sooner.
OK, so what did you do to correct the problem that was causing the failures? (hint: its still there)
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Old 10-09-2009, 01:13 PM
Powerstroke_wannabe Powerstroke_wannabe is offline
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I think he's asking if you replaced your oil cooler.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2009, 01:23 PM
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I think he's asking if you replaced your oil cooler.
Nope! Take it deeper than that!
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2009, 01:47 PM
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Deeper than that? What is next in line? All I can think of is bad coolant.
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Old 10-09-2009, 03:15 PM
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Besides the coolant it's what's in the coolant, but I have a sneaking suspicion that it goes way way deeper than we are thinking. At least if I know anything at all about Vince.
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Old 10-09-2009, 03:37 PM
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I disconnected the EGR on my 04 after replacing the o-rings, I did not hook it back up. No codes shown at dealer and no CEL. When it is cold it is slow on the take off but warms up and runs well. Also starts well. The 200k mil story is the first one that gave me any sense of comfort in my purchase. It has 70k on it. The rest of the horror stories and recommendations to replace/purchase after market parts to cure inept engineering make me think getting rid of it or staying in the driveway is the way to go. I also experienced the bolts missing, broken parts and grease all over.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2009, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vloney View Post
Nope! Take it deeper than that!
The suspense is literally killing me Vince! I have a truck that came in today and the dealer has thrown two egr coolers at it and now the truck is out of warranty and the cooler has popped and the heads have to. The dealer never replaced the oil cooler, so i need to know how deep I need to go to get this man's truck right the first time. Please hurry!
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2009, 06:18 PM
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Delete the cooler and do ARP studs for the heads.. You're almost 3/4 the way there to do the heads if you take the intake off..
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Old 10-09-2009, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by vloney View Post
OK, so what did you do to correct the problem that was causing the failures? (hint: its still there)
Vince - is it possible that Black1 has head gaskets leaking. The exhaust gas gets into the coolant and can cause silicates to drop out (chemical reaction). The silicates plug the oil cooler and then the EGR cooler fails?

I have seen this IMPLIED in a TSB, but I have never heard of people actually confirming this mechanism for "coolant solids" formation.

If it is not that, then the only other things I could think of would be a weak water pump or excessive exhaust gas temperatures.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2009, 10:20 PM
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We are finding that the coolant will rapidly corrode everything it comes in contact with. The test strips will help you to monitor coolant health. Coolant will cause severe cavitation in the front cover (6.4 too), releasing aluminum particles (that will plug small passages). Undetected, you'll get cross contamination with oil and coolant, and possible overheating. The problem with the casting sand is also there. My thoughts are not to delete the egr cooler, but to fix what causes the problem to begin with. Coolant filter, and monitoring coolant health is more beneficial than deleting emission components. There is an iron cleaner to use prior to a complete flush assuring that you have a good start.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2009, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vloney View Post
We are finding that the coolant will rapidly corrode everything it comes in contact with. The test strips will help you to monitor coolant health. Coolant will cause severe cavitation in the front cover (6.4 too), releasing aluminum particles (that will plug small passages). Undetected, you'll get cross contamination with oil and coolant, and possible overheating. The problem with the casting sand is also there. My thoughts are not to delete the egr cooler, but to fix what causes the problem to begin with. Coolant filter, and monitoring coolant health is more beneficial than deleting emission components. There is an iron cleaner to use prior to a complete flush assuring that you have a good start.
Great to know Vince - many thanks. I know BBC advocates changing coolant out WAY before 90k miles, so I did mine at 50k. Now I am very glad I did.

One question though .....

The coolant has a long shelf life in the bottle, so what is it that depletes the nitrites? It has to be heat or some kind of chemical reaction doesn't it?
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2009, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
It has to be heat or some kind of chemical reaction doesn't it?
It could be both.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2009, 01:44 PM
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I have a question on the delete. As I type my 06 350 is being towed to dealer due to white smoke and rough run for about 5 mins. Started 10 mins later and fine but dealer said tow anyway. Am out of warranty and cannot to any mods myself so what do i do? Replace either head or egr or find diesel shop to do? My funds are limited can someone please give me some advice. thanks
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2009, 11:00 AM
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I'm with Brian, my orange hose leaks should replace it? delete the Egr (already disconnected) and cooler OR what?
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2009, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianjphillips View Post
I have a question on the delete. As I type my 06 350 is being towed to dealer due to white smoke and rough run for about 5 mins. Started 10 mins later and fine but dealer said tow anyway. Am out of warranty and cannot to any mods myself so what do i do? Replace either head or egr or find diesel shop to do? My funds are limited can someone please give me some advice. thanks

Sounds like a stuck EGR valve....
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