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Can anyone help me figure this out? My ford just suddenly started backfiring and started smelling like this sulfer kind of smell and knew i needed a new exhaust so i got a new tailpipe and muffler and problem still persisted so then i replaced the driver side catalytic converter because i had noticed after driving it that it was smoking after driving it . So now i've replaced that and i still got the smell and it just rides rougher and the check engine light is blinking after driving a couple minutes anybody that has a clue please respond. Thanks
Many of the chain auto parts stores will read out the diagnostic codes at no charge. Get the code number and post back here. The code should be in the form 'P0123." Don't rely on the parts store's diagnosis. Just because the code indicates "Lack of O2 sensor switching" does not mean the O2 sensor is bad.
Also, which engine does your Explorer have? It's common for vacuum leaks on the 4.0L V6.
Yankeez76
I have the same problem. My 1998 Ford explorer with the 4L SOHC V6 will turn on and idle roughly, RPM's increasing and decreasing slighty in 10-20 second intervals while idle, and the check engine light is illuminated upon engine start. I put it in neutral and gave it some gave, and kept it at a steady rate and after about 15 seconds the check engine light started to flash, and so I turned it off, and got out, and could smell something burning. I've noticed my car starts smoking too after I've turned it off..... Unfortunately, I dont know much about car engines, and I hear the 1998's 4L SOHC V6 engine is quite complex, I'm not really in a position to tow the vehicle to see what codes come up from a diagnostic, is there anything you have found out about your vehicle, anything I can do/look at/try to do to see what the problem is and fix it?
Alrighty, SOME progress. A neighbor of mine plugged in his code machine which gave me the codes P0301 and P0306 with a pending code P0304. 301, 306, and 304 are cylinders 1, 6, and 4 misfiring. That neighbor told me it could be as simple as changing my spark plugs, so we'll see how that goes, and I located the source of the burning smell, something from the engine is leaking onto a hot part UNDER the engine. I saw this last night after we took it around the block, so I'll have him identify it today now that we got some light to work with. The exhaust still spits out clean stuff, no black or blue so thats a good sign, he said it may be the catalytic converter clogging up, but again I'm not real mechanically savvy so we'll just do the spark plugs and see where were at, more info to come!
With that many cylinders misfiring, it would not be amiss to do a full fuel pressure test.
PUMP Testing Overview: AT LEAST DO ALL the FIRST FIVE. And then an injector balance test .
Before we start, let me state the 8 tests that can be done:
You must do the ones in RED for sure ! steps 1 to 4 use an inline tap , or equivalent, the other tests require special connections, not shown here.
Static Pump test. Key on , no-start Pump PSI at Rail ,16v or into TBI injector back side. ( 89-98 and Sports must be cranked)
Running Pressure, the pressure while idling and running under load. Should be the same.
Fuel pressure Regulator test, vary the vacuum to the Fuel Pressure Regulator device, and measure the rail pressure changes. (varies 10 psi ,easy)
Residual Pump test. The pressure after turning off the Key , after 1 minute. { aka: pump leak down test }
Dead Head test. key one, running , block return line test . (65 psi is typical , don't do this too long, just 5 seconds). [ hard on pumps, but no worse than clogged filter]
Fuel Volume test , fill a bucket with a stop watch or use the fancy gauge shown below. [ no data on this ,sorry , but placed here for accuracy ]
My '98 had the intake leaks and threw an O2 sensor code. The shop knew the tricks, also as per the prior posts, that just because it says the sensor is bad doesn't mean the sensor is bad.
Yes, the SOHC motor has been described here as a "...hateful..." engine after a member did an R & R. Keep your oil clean and run it easy is all I can recommend. However, when running properly, they do make decent power.
well, the cylinders dont misfire any more, I replaced all plugs and wires (accidentally broke my EGR pressure feedback sensor in the process.....replaced it) and the car started idling smoothly, but after driving it around for about after 2 days, the idle is still intermittently rough, atleast now all cylinders are all firing, no check engine light comes on, but there is a hose that irks me. its attached to the main air intake on the passenger side, its the second hose in that connects to the top of the engine in a very mickey mouse way, theres nothing holding it there besides the rigidity of the hose itself, and when you lift it up out of the port it gives absolutely no resistance. I parked the car, and in idle I raised to hood and checked on it and it seems to stay in place, but idk, my neighbor says its where the PCV valve's suppose to go, I'll post pictures soon when I can get some daylight tomorrow
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