Best Coolant?
#1
Best Coolant?
I know this is the oil and Lub board but I didn't now where to post this question.
I have a couple of cars that are due for a coolant change. Now I hate this job and it is expensive to have done.
So what is the longest running coolant for the best price? I have seen some product out there rated for 5 years or 150,000 miles selling for about $8 a gallon.
I have a couple of cars that are due for a coolant change. Now I hate this job and it is expensive to have done.
So what is the longest running coolant for the best price? I have seen some product out there rated for 5 years or 150,000 miles selling for about $8 a gallon.
#2
Best Coolant?
I am on a different list where we have a lot of experience with Dexcool, Texaco Long Life(dexcool) and the usual green stuff. Most of them claim 100,000 to 150,000 miles between service. Our experience is that at best the long life coolant is OK for maybe 50,000 miles before it might clog up the heater core. The clogging issue is more directly related to air in the system and contamination of the coolant, but it seems more common with the longlife.
My personal experience is that the coolant will get dirty just like any other brand so I would recommend 25,000 to 50,000 mile intervals. You must check the coolant level frequently and not let it get too low, allowing air into the system.
I suppose you could go 100,000+ if you were scrupulous about keeping it topped up, did not use sealers, checked the concentration regularly, and your engine didn't contaminate the coolant much. Easier IMHO to just change it regularly.
The coolant isn't so expensive that changing it regularly would be a problem. Oh, by the way do not mix the long life with the regular stuff.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
My personal experience is that the coolant will get dirty just like any other brand so I would recommend 25,000 to 50,000 mile intervals. You must check the coolant level frequently and not let it get too low, allowing air into the system.
I suppose you could go 100,000+ if you were scrupulous about keeping it topped up, did not use sealers, checked the concentration regularly, and your engine didn't contaminate the coolant much. Easier IMHO to just change it regularly.
The coolant isn't so expensive that changing it regularly would be a problem. Oh, by the way do not mix the long life with the regular stuff.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
#3
#4
Best Coolant?
I agree Jim, I have used Prestone for many years with absolutly no problems. The price changes seasonally, but for around $5.00 a gal every three to four years, that's pretty cheap maintance.
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
#5
Best Coolant?
I have always used Prestone, Zerex and some generic brands for years & never had a problem. I do change it every two years at about 20 to 25 K miles. On one of the vehicles that has been in the family since my Father bought it for over 45 years ago the copper radiator is clean as almost the day it was bought. From what some off the local repair shops experts say is that"heat is what really weares out the antifreeze". Heat causes the break down & chemical reaction with the metals in the cooling system. Otherwise if you only drive a car 5 K miles a year you can stretch the time period for changing the antifreeze. Conversely if you drive 25 k a year you need to change it yearly.My 2 cents worth.:7
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#9
Best Coolant?
Supposedly all of the coolants have rust inhibitors. The problem starts when the rust inhibitors start to wear out or you have diluted the coolant too much. In the old days, you would typically use a 30% coolant to maybe 50% coolant to water mix. Very rarely was more than 50% of the green stuff recommended. Now with the new coolants, they stonrgly recommend that you maintain 50% mix. More importantly they recommend checking the concentration regularly to make sure the mix is 50%, because like I said, the inhibitors wear out. The inhibitors are "consumed" by doing their job. Each car will consume it at a different rate, so the 100,000 mile figure is kind of just marketing hype, ie your mileage will vary. You really should check it or replace regularly.
Note that when you flush and fill the system your self, you should calculate the amount of coolant required for a 50% mix and add it first, then add water. The reason is that usually some water is trapped in the system and will dilute your mix. If you add enough coolant to guarnatee a 50% mix, then you don't need to worry about how much water to add, other than fill it up.
According to the Dexcool study website, the declining concentration of the inhibitors often allowed the cooling system to start "rusting" which then causes deposits. Air in the system encourages deposits to all gather in one place. So it is important to keep the concentration at 50% and the level topped up.
FWIW,
Jim Henderson
Note that when you flush and fill the system your self, you should calculate the amount of coolant required for a 50% mix and add it first, then add water. The reason is that usually some water is trapped in the system and will dilute your mix. If you add enough coolant to guarnatee a 50% mix, then you don't need to worry about how much water to add, other than fill it up.
According to the Dexcool study website, the declining concentration of the inhibitors often allowed the cooling system to start "rusting" which then causes deposits. Air in the system encourages deposits to all gather in one place. So it is important to keep the concentration at 50% and the level topped up.
FWIW,
Jim Henderson
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