52 ign. switch help
#16
08-04-2009, 02:33 AM
OL11572A .. Ignition Switch / Obsolete
Fits: 1951/52 ALL Trucks / 1953/55 P350/500 (Parcel Delivery only) / 1950/51 Lincoln.
MATLOCK FORD-MERCURY in Franklin IN has ONE.
No other Ford Dealer, no obsolete parts vendor has any.
------------------------------------------------------
The problem with the LMC (once sold by autoparts stores) type of "Universal" ignition switches is, they aren't universal.
They only fit some vehicles.
Fits: 1951/52 ALL Trucks / 1953/55 P350/500 (Parcel Delivery only) / 1950/51 Lincoln.
MATLOCK FORD-MERCURY in Franklin IN has ONE.
No other Ford Dealer, no obsolete parts vendor has any.
------------------------------------------------------
The problem with the LMC (once sold by autoparts stores) type of "Universal" ignition switches is, they aren't universal.
They only fit some vehicles.
#17
08-04-2009, 11:36 AM
Post Fiend
Hmmmm well ok I guess I'm just not good at names.
There is a wiring configuration where the starter button will turn the starter without there being any spark. This was done mainly to provide pre oiling in cold weather conditions.
When you turn the key on and then push the starter button it should fire up. If you get no spark with the key on check the ignition switch wiring IAW the drawing I provided above and check or replace the coil. Correct Edit: You should not have a ballast resistor with a 6 volt system. And I agree with you about LMC selling that as a 52 switch.
There is a wiring configuration where the starter button will turn the starter without there being any spark. This was done mainly to provide pre oiling in cold weather conditions.
When you turn the key on and then push the starter button it should fire up. If you get no spark with the key on check the ignition switch wiring IAW the drawing I provided above and check or replace the coil. Correct Edit: You should not have a ballast resistor with a 6 volt system. And I agree with you about LMC selling that as a 52 switch.
#18
08-04-2009, 02:29 PM
Did'ja all know (prolly not 
) that the starter button used on some a these trucks was also used for the windshield washer button on other models?
2C11500A .. Starter Push Button / Windshield Washer Push Button (Motorcraft SW287) / Available from Ford.
MSRP: $11.33 // FTE sponsor Y2KFORDPARTS.COM price: $6.12
Fits:
Starter Button: 1952/55 trucks.
Windshield Washer Button: 1965 F100/250 / 1966 F100/250 with Single Speed Wiipers / 1966 Econoline.
) that the starter button used on some a these trucks was also used for the windshield washer button on other models? 2C11500A .. Starter Push Button / Windshield Washer Push Button (Motorcraft SW287) / Available from Ford.
MSRP: $11.33 // FTE sponsor Y2KFORDPARTS.COM price: $6.12
Fits:
Starter Button: 1952/55 trucks.
Windshield Washer Button: 1965 F100/250 / 1966 F100/250 with Single Speed Wiipers / 1966 Econoline.
#19
08-04-2009, 11:50 PM
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#20
08-05-2009, 12:25 AM
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A simple contact switch used on wipers. I guess you had to let it go at just the right time to get the wipers to park.
#21
08-05-2009, 01:15 AM
1965/66: It mounts above the ignition switch on the left side of the dash.
Give the button a push = water sprays on the windshield...that is, if the w/s washer motor still works.
I used to take that washer motor out of its housing and install it in slot cars. I had the fastest cars on the local track.
#22
08-06-2009, 02:03 AM
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#23
08-09-2009, 08:59 AM
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As an update: I was unable to find an origional switch so I made the spacer like Julie suggested and it worked great.
Now for the next question. My new later switch has the outside posts labeled ACC, IGN, and BAT. My 1952 wiring diragram has a black/green wire coming from the ACC post going to the strap on the gauges. It has a red/green wire coming from the COIL post going to + post on the coil. and it has a yellow wire going from the AM post to the lower circuit breaker. Can you tell me which wire goes onto which post on my new switch. I want to keep the starter button which brings me to another question.
My wiring diagram has a red with blue tracer coming from the circuit breaker to the starter button and a red w/ blue tracer coming from the starter solinoid to the switch. Thats fine for the generic two post button i bought from tractor supply but the one wire switch i bought from LMC I have no idea how to wire it. Thanks again Ian
Now for the next question. My new later switch has the outside posts labeled ACC, IGN, and BAT. My 1952 wiring diragram has a black/green wire coming from the ACC post going to the strap on the gauges. It has a red/green wire coming from the COIL post going to + post on the coil. and it has a yellow wire going from the AM post to the lower circuit breaker. Can you tell me which wire goes onto which post on my new switch. I want to keep the starter button which brings me to another question.
My wiring diagram has a red with blue tracer coming from the circuit breaker to the starter button and a red w/ blue tracer coming from the starter solinoid to the switch. Thats fine for the generic two post button i bought from tractor supply but the one wire switch i bought from LMC I have no idea how to wire it. Thanks again Ian
#24
08-09-2009, 10:53 AM
Post Fiend
As an update: I was unable to find an origional switch so I made the spacer like Julie suggested and it worked great.
Now for the next question. My new later switch has the outside posts labeled ACC, IGN, and BAT. It should be the same as the original switch except the center "Start" post is the only difference. My 1952 wiring diragram has a black/green wire coming from the ACC post going to the strap on the gauges. Yes that's correct for original wiring. The wire on the "ACC" post of the new switch should run to the post with the metal strap on the back of the gauges (I think it's the temp guage on yours - not sure but it doesn't matter) It has a red/green wire coming from the COIL post going to + post on the coil. This wire would attach to the "IGN" post on the new switch and run out to the coil. and it has a yellow wire going from the AM post to the lower circuit breaker. Here is a drawing of your circuit breaker set up and the wire running from the ignition switch:
You have two circuit breakers - one is 15 amp and the other is 30 amp.
The final wire from the "BATT" terminal on your Ignition Switch should run to the "BATT" post of the 30 Amp Breaker. But you will notice that there is (or should be) a metal strap or large wire connecting the two circuit breakers. The wire from the ingition switch can be attatched to either of the two posts ("BATT" on both Circuit Breakers) that the strap is attached to on either breaker - they're connected by the strap.
Can you tell me which wire goes onto which post on my new switch. I want to keep the starter button which brings me to another question.
My wiring diagram has a red with blue tracer coming from the circuit breaker to the starter button and a red w/ blue tracer coming from the starter solinoid to the switch. Thats fine for the generic two post button i bought from tractor supply but the one wire switch i bought from LMC I have no idea how to wire it. Thanks again Ian
Now for the next question. My new later switch has the outside posts labeled ACC, IGN, and BAT. It should be the same as the original switch except the center "Start" post is the only difference. My 1952 wiring diragram has a black/green wire coming from the ACC post going to the strap on the gauges. Yes that's correct for original wiring. The wire on the "ACC" post of the new switch should run to the post with the metal strap on the back of the gauges (I think it's the temp guage on yours - not sure but it doesn't matter) It has a red/green wire coming from the COIL post going to + post on the coil. This wire would attach to the "IGN" post on the new switch and run out to the coil. and it has a yellow wire going from the AM post to the lower circuit breaker. Here is a drawing of your circuit breaker set up and the wire running from the ignition switch:
You have two circuit breakers - one is 15 amp and the other is 30 amp.
The final wire from the "BATT" terminal on your Ignition Switch should run to the "BATT" post of the 30 Amp Breaker. But you will notice that there is (or should be) a metal strap or large wire connecting the two circuit breakers. The wire from the ingition switch can be attatched to either of the two posts ("BATT" on both Circuit Breakers) that the strap is attached to on either breaker - they're connected by the strap.
Can you tell me which wire goes onto which post on my new switch. I want to keep the starter button which brings me to another question.
My wiring diagram has a red with blue tracer coming from the circuit breaker to the starter button and a red w/ blue tracer coming from the starter solinoid to the switch. Thats fine for the generic two post button i bought from tractor supply but the one wire switch i bought from LMC I have no idea how to wire it. Thanks again Ian
The first type (two wire) activates the Solenoid with power in a Negative Ground system with a 4 post Starter Solenoid (added "I" terminal). And the single wire type simply grounds to the dash and provides a ground for the solenoid in a Positive Ground system - normally. But they are interchangeable if wired correctly.
Let me modify my ignition switch drawing for you and post it in about 30 minutes. If I can't get it done in time to edit it in this post, I will put it in a new one.
EDIT NOTE:
Here ya go:
#25
08-09-2009, 11:30 AM
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Julie, thanks for the quick reply, I have wired the dash/gauges exactly as stock. So to make sure I dont fry something can you tell me which post on the new switch equals the post on the old switch, for example old ACC post equals BAT on new switch etc.... sorry for the repeated questions but i just spend alot of $$ on parts and I dont want any screwups Ian
#26
08-09-2009, 11:50 AM
Post Fiend
#27
08-09-2009, 07:14 PM
#28
08-09-2009, 11:18 PM
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