Be absolutely sure that the synthetic you choose has all of the ratings called out in your owners manual. I understand that Powerstrokes are very sensitive to oil foaming and gasoline engine oils do not contain enough anti-foam additive. Most diesel owners stick with Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo, or similar oils.
My dad sells motor oil for a living (Kendall mainly) and I have used a Ford F-150 Inline 6 300. I have used Kendall in my truck now for 5 years and after 112,000 miles it still runs like the day I bought it. I would have to say the Kendall is the best oil. Now I have been told that synthetic is basically a waste of money on gas engines unless you race around, basically run the engine hot or at high RPMs, the synthetic does cost quite a bit more, another benifit is that it stays more of a liquid in really cold weather and not quite as thin in really hot weather.
As far as a diesel oil goes, I'm not really sure but this link might be able to help you out...
Again it depends on what type of driving you do, if you offroad a lot it may be worth it to get the synthetic but for everyday driving I think your wasting your money.
Also when oils say that they go beyond 3000 miles, be careful, especially if your driving offroad with a lot of dust. The oil detergents and dispersants can only do so much and then the oil can't hold any more stuff in it.
Hope this helps, whatever you do don't run Penzoil, it's the worst oil there is!!!
One more thing, I hang out at the race track once in a while, if you get a chance ask some of the drivers if they have ever heard of Kendall, they will most likley say yes, and thats all I use. No kidding, even Nascar cars will use it, the same formula as you can get in the store.
Check out the July 2001 issue of Highways Magazine(Good Sams Club) page 28. They address the topic of oil for Ford Diesels. I have never owned a diesel so I was surprised at the answer they gave.
In general the usual answer, "Use the API service rating and SAE certification called out in the manual" is correct. My interpretation is that if the syntehtic API and SAE ratings meet your manual specifications, then you are OK. Often one brand of oil or another will meet specs for current passenger cars but not diesels, I guess this is one time where it is very important to make sure you follow spec.
What surprised me was that the engine oil is also actually used in the injectors of the diesel engine. I thought this was a lot of hooey until I read more and now it makes sense. From what I can interpret, the injectors use pressurized engine oil to activate themselves. I would guess the typical electrically activated solenoid as used by gas engines is not capable of handling the pressures involved in the direct injection used by the PowerStrokes. I don't know since I never used a diesel but makes sense to me now. The process of pressurizing the injectors can cause foaming so if the oil does not meet the specifications you can get too much foaming which could lead to component failure. The Magazine seemed to favor Rotella(Chevron?) oil for the PSD engine.
Use the synthetic as soon as possible. I like Mobil1 Delvac for my F550. You might also want to start oil analysis with a service like Blackstone Labs, etc. Also, Amsoil and Redline oils have excellent reputations, and Amsoil does carry extensive sideline products such as filters, bypass systems. The synthetic with the oil analysis will keep the PSD going several hundred thousand miles before teardown/rebuild. The oil analysis will save you money in the long run because you will be able to extend the change interval.
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 13-Jul-01 AT 03:40 AM (EST)[/font][p]Used Castrol full synthetic 5W50 in my Nissan. Got 426,600 brutalized miles on it. No knocks,pings,or,dings. Runs like it was new. Some people don't like synthetics.
I don't know if this is true,but I was told diesel lube oil
contains parafin as an additive to protect against main/rod bearing wear.(?)
Never use checkvalve type filters on Fords. The bottom end will
clatter and will not stop untill you switch back to a motorcraft filter.Experienced it with 5 Fords. One with only 067,000miles.
Quakerstate is the worst. Pennzoil is second.
>Hey Stab I find it hard to believe that synthetics
>are a waste of money when their is not a petroleum
>based oil on the market that can stand up against
First, I see you still can't read: "NO DEALERS"
Second, Stab stated that synthetics are a waste in 99% of engines. He did not say dino was better. He just said syntehtics are a waste in most of our applications.
Let me try to explain this to you... It means that building an oil that exceeds an engine spec to the nth degree is a waste. Spending buku bucks on an oil that will protect your engine in ways it will never need protecting is a waste.
I like good synthetics like the next guy, but I still subscribe to the "change your oil regularly -- with ANY good oil, dino or otherwise" theory.
So what if x-brand dino does not stand up to Amsoil or whatever brand synthetic? It still protects your engine the way it is needed.
Of course, you are an Amsoil dealer. I wouldn't expect you to understand. Of course, you are also in the 95 percentile... and I don't expect you to understand what that means either. Ask Stab, he'll tell you.
Thanks. I am not trying to be the forum police. I just understand why no dealers are welcome here. There agendas cloud good honest discussions.
If there was a way for them to join the discussion as a 'person' and not a 'dealer', I guess it wouldn't be any big deal. But Ken -- and all of the other moderators -- has obviously learned that that is impossible.
Thanks for the back up RJ. 5% er's have to watch each others backs.
I'm glad a Amsoil dealer showed up. I want to buy some for 0.88 per quart. That is what I pay for Formula Shell and they perform the same in my engines. Send me out a case for that price and I'll switch.
Yeah, the synthetic oils are better than mineral oils. Are they better enough to justify the exspense ? Well, that seems to be debateable. A lot of that would depend on where you live. I live in Michigan, and it is still winter here. (April 5 today) there are spots in this state that still have 4 ft of snow on the ground and it is plenty cold. Being somewhat of a stick-in-the-mud old guy, I just can't get myself to use the newer thin engine oils some guys like. AND I'm still running FE power. So I've always used 20-50 oil. But the gooey stuff doesn't move very fast in the cold, and I can hear the bearings tapping as the engine starts in the cold. Not good. But Mobil1 15-50 allows the engine to crank fast and start easily even in sub zero weather. If you live someplace warm, it may not be important. DF