Is their synthetic oil in the brand new 2009 V-10 ? If not would I start using it on the first oil change ? Is it worth it ? Does it extend the oil changes as well as the life of the engine ? Is it worth it, extra costs ? Do you have to use a different oil filter ?
I have always used Mobil 1 and go 7500 miles and it does not look that bad when I take it out. But I have never sent it out to be tested. Never had a issue either.
1.) Tolerances on today's engines are much tighter and don't require the "bed in" or beak in of old days.... For instance Chevy's Corvettes come straight from the factory with synthetic in them.
2.) Still a good idea to get everything "seated" with dino oil and run at lighter varying speeds....
FWIW, even in WWII 2000-2500HP fighter plane engines were broken in at full speed with dino oil at the factory before being shipped out over seas and having the living hell ran out of them, these planes were running 20-30+ lbs of boost under conditions that would make every mile you drive look like idle time.
In the end, it's all about what makes you the most comfortable...you won't/can't hurt it by doing it the oild way. I WOULD put in a magnetic drain plug and maybe even one of the filter magnets that wrap around the filter to help trap metal particles.
I used MC 5w-20 for at least the first 5k miles or so and changed the oil/filter at 500miles and 3500miles. After that I switched off between MC blend and full synthetic 5w-20 depending on season.(synthetic flows better in winter cold) Use motorcraft Fl-820s filters, great filter great price.
I use Shell Rotella 5w40 SYN. in everything I own. Plan on switching to rotella at 1st oil change on the new beast.Run Bosch or Motorcraft filters, Change oil at 7500 mi. never had a problem. PS. you know this thread is going to start some chit!
If you live in a cold climate, definitely go with synthetic during winter - or at least don't go dino. Synthetic at twenty below still flows well, but dino doesn't.
__________________
2005 F350 V10 6spd dually, 15K receiver. No 4WD, no LS, no A/C, no special cab - just a lean mean towing machine!
I use mobil 1 in everything. synthetic is good stuff....
__________________
1999 Ford F250 lariat sc 4x4, 6.8 triton V10, 5 speed stick
2008 Yamaha Rhino 700 SE, steel blue, ITP mudlights on factory ss rims, gorilla winch, back seat, lots of fun!!
2005 Yamaha RX-1 1000 with Full Power Performance stage 2 turbo 265hp at the ground sold
2004 Polaris xc 700 sp V force reeds, thunder dome heads, slp single pipe, clutch kit, studded
I use Shell Rotella 5w40 SYN. in everything I own. Plan on switching to rotella at 1st oil change on the new beast.Run Bosch or Motorcraft filters, Change oil at 7500 mi. never had a problem. PS. you know this thread is going to start some chit!
I hope you like clogged oil passages and an oil starved valvetrain because that more than likely what your get running 5w-40 in a modular. If you want to screw up your engine thats fine, but don't recruit.
^^^ that is a fact. i posted a run-in with a local shop owner who insisted that he always ran 20w50 and (10w40 in lousiana winters) in his "BIG BLOCKS", i told him about running 5w20, and he said only an idiot would believe/do that.......... first engine he wiped a cam......... put a new engine in it, 8 mo later it was for sale again with guess what........ a blown engine!
he said he'd never buy another P.O.S. V10 ever again.........
i've never gone back, and probably woun't be treated very well, after i asked if his "ASE" certified sign stood for "A-ask S-omeone E-lse" cause he didnt' know jack.
__________________ Jason 2000 F250 LARIAT, CC, SHORT BED, 4X4- V10, 9"lift, 4.56, 39.5 IROKs, BANKS kit, FM 40 2003 Excursion XLT - V10, 4.30's w/ LS, pretty much stock (for now) V10 sound clips "If at first you don't succed.........do it the way your wife told you to"
I just came off Mobil 1 in all my vehicles. I was SURE that all my vehicles were burning oil as it seemed they all used 1 to 1-1/2 qts during oil changes. After one of the vehicles went in for warranty work, it most likely came back with dino oil in it. I ran it 6000 miles and it showed no oil usage. Looks as if the Mobil 1 was evaperating. I have since went to semi-syn to limit this huge amount of evap.
I use Shell Rotella 5w40 SYN. in everything I own. Plan on switching to rotella at 1st oil change on the new beast.Run Bosch or Motorcraft filters, Change oil at 7500 mi. never had a problem. PS. you know this thread is going to start some chit!
I used MC 5w-20 for at least the first 5k miles or so and changed the oil/filter at 500miles and 3500miles. After that I switched off between MC blend and full synthetic 5w-20 depending on season.(synthetic flows better in winter cold) Use motorcraft Fl-820s filters, great filter great price.
I've used Motorcraft 5w20 oil and FL-820S filters for the entire life of my 2001 V10 Excursion. I change the oil every 6mos (I only put about 7K/yr on it) regardless of miles. No problems.
Dont use Rotella... The Viscosity isnt even correct.
I use Mobil 1 with ther long life M1-210 filter
I will add some threads for reading... If I use conventional oil... It is always Castrol. Does not break down at high RPM's, and under extreme conditions. I am however wating for Castrol Edge to come out in my 5w20 viscosity, I will have to look at the numbers then.
I reccomend and I did, change the oil when you get your car home, Conventional, I over killed it. The oil has been in the engine since it was built. SO look at the build date, that is the age of your oil.
I did mine every 500 miles till it had 2500 on it I think, then swtched to Mobil1.
Now people will say this is an amsoil test or what evr test... I am not an Amsoil person. the other tests are based on cost, and factor that in. I really dont care about a reasonable costing items. Cheap scares me.
__________________
06 SuperDuty 4x4 extcb 5.4, TorqShift, 4:10.
90 Mustang 9's, 750 HP Windsor. Ultratech Chassis http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pibt-TVgAx4
41 Plymouth 49 dodge flathead6 elec ign.
Sig Sauer P229 Two tone.
I hope you like clogged oil passages and an oil starved valvetrain because that more than likely what your get running 5w-40 in a modular. If you want to screw up your engine thats fine, but don't recruit.
You will have to explain your wisdom . And as for recruitment I don't remember telling anyone to run it, just said that I do. Sound's like your doing the recruitment by telling people not to run it.
Running a heavy weight oil is not good for modular engines. Oil passages are small and heavy oils do not flow well within these passages. Poor flowing oil leads to poorly oiled moving parts.
__________________
Mike
2000 F-250, SC, SB, 4X4, Lariat, 6.8 V10, Auto, 3.73, Ford Racing headers, SCT X3 87 Performance tune by 5 Star Tuning
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
dude!!
