well, i just set it on the front of the truck and i measured it.
it should fit, but i might need to get some new block hugger heads for it.

 

You should have stayed with the 302
But that is jmo.Good luck in what ever you do.

 

thanks, this has been very helpful

 

I know that wanting the HP and torque without spending the $$$ is the dream of every restorer.

But unless you are planning on having the Walt Disney Studios produce your conversion, there are certain things you are goiung to HAVE TO do in order to make that hp and torque SAFE.

Just to take Bob's statement about front suspension a dash farther. When your 460 is built up with an aluminum intake it doesn't weigh but 50 pounds more than the stock flathead V8.

BUT BUT BUT, The stock engine had 95 GROSS hp and that didn't do much twisting when it was thrust upon your frame. These trucks were made with a semi flexible frame to help on unimproved roads. And trust me if you floor the gas pedal in an F1 that now has a 350 HP engine, the passenger side frame and front spring are going to compress almost 4 to 5 inches and eventually they stay compressed.

How do I know this? Next week my truck with it's glorious FE390 @395 Net HP is going to spend a week at San Diego Spring getting the passenger side spring rearched and reninforced, then is going to Sparks welding to get ANOTHER frame brace welded in. My right side has perminently dropped almost 3 inches just from that engine jumping sideways when I step on the gas. Not to mention that I also busted a new motor mount on that side some time ago- the over the frame headers caught the engine heading for the pavement.

Speaking of headers, you will not have enough room on the drivers side for exhaust between the motor mount and the stock steering box. So, you will have to use a different steering box, go over teh frame with headers, or loop the exhaust forward then back on the drivers side. You will have a square box for exhaust 5" by 5" between the frame, engine, motor mount, and steering box.

So, let me be brief and blunt. If you put the 460 and an associated transmission in your F1, and don't box the frame back to the firewall and integrate a full across motormount system (not to mention replacing the stock transmission cross member you are going to have to cut out) into the boxing, and weld in an additional front brace, with stock springs and single beam axel (as I have retained) your gonna die! Want pictures as proof?

 

damn, i was hoping for it to work.

so... all i have to do is replace the springs and shocks.... or do i need a whole new front axle, springs, shocks.....

 

I'm not against hot rodding, in fact that was the plan I had when I first got my panel. I wasn't able to start on it right away and had some time to seriously decide what I wanted. I've decided to go a stock small block mostly for economy but still plenty power for passing. Safety is the biggest factor I have in mind and believe should be for anyone redoing these trucks. Now you have stated that you didn't have the money to do frame upgrades and feel you need all this power and torque to impress lookers at the show and shine and likely for your excitement when you put the pedal to the metal but fear you may wish you spent the money you had on the cautions presented to you from ones who have experience on these matters. That 460 is going to eat the money in your pockets too because gas is no longer as cheap as it was when they were putting those monsters in at the factory. If I'm starting to sound like an old fart I apologize but would like to see that you keep your interest in these old trucks and hang around here knowing you've made a safe and right decision, so spend your money on building a truck that is safe and able to handle the power before you give it the power it or you can't.
John

 

wow, thanks john
i am going to try it out for a little while, and if me and/ or my dad dont think that it is safe, i will replace the front end, or just finish the 302 and put that in instead...
i guess i might be getting carried away with the POWER thing, but i have the engine, and i hope to make it worth me trading my classic car for an engine ( instead of it just sitting in my yard for a few years until i find something new to do.)

thanks again everyone, every word has been taken to thought and i am very grateful for your words of advice.

 

You traded a car for a 460? Dang.

 

good, or bad?

 

it was an old 1974 mercedes and it didnt move, i thought it was worth it

 

I was talking to a guy a couple of weeks ago who had a 48 F1 with a 429 in it. I don't know what the difference is in size but it did fit. He said the biggest problem was the steering box. He had to do other mods as well but it looked good.

Terry

 

F-1 or F-2, it doesn't matter, I wouldn't do the swap without beefing up the suspension. As I stated above, going around a corner with my F-2, and my F-1 panel, can get hairy. These trucks in stock configuration were not made to take a corner at 40 mph. They barely cruise in a straight line at 45-50 mph without complaining. As long as a person can keep their head and never overwork the stock suspension and only cruise 40-50 at most, then you'd probably be OK. But if a person has a high horse power engine I would bet he'll want to push it to it's limit every once in a while. I don't want to be the guy coming in the opposite direction.

Also, you have to take in consideration the stock braking system. Again, these old trucks were made when traffic was less congested and less in a hurry, way before the interstate system. Even with my stock flat six I've had close calls with goofs pull out in front of me as I'm going down the road.

 

do i need to replace the shocks, or the leaf springs, or both?

 

Weight wise, the 460 should not be a problem. But, the condition of the front suspension parts should really dictate what gets replaced. First off, unless the shocks are less than a year or two old, replace them. Then inspect the springs and spring hangers. Look for cracks, thin areas, excessive rust. Replace as required. Inspect kingpins, drag link, tie rod ends.

You will have to cobble up your own motor mount setup on this, and you should reinforce the frame at the attaching points. Same for trans crossmember. The alternative is the trial and error method - just mount it to fit then wait for something to bend or break - like the engine laying over and twisting the frame the first time you take it out and goose it.

Just keep one thing in mind - a structural failure on the road can kill you and/or someone else.

 

no, everything is going to be reinforced and strengthened, i dont want to risk losing something and/or breaking my truck

the springs are stock and haven't been changed since the truck was built, so i definatly need to replace those, along with the shocks, i wouldn't mind a smoother ride

i have to modify the stock tranny mount for it to fit anyways, so i might as well reinforce that as well.... it is going to be a lot safer