Hello I have a 6.0 crew cab superd and it will not start. I came home last night after filling up and park it in my driveway, I get up this morning to go to work and all it does is cranks and hits a litte but just wont start all the way. ANYONE EVER HERD OF THIS BEFORE? ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT
Welcome to FTE. Since you've found the generic Super Duty section which covers many different years and many different motors, we'll see if we can't get this thread moved down to the 6.0 diesel section so you can get more help from the ones familiar with your engine.
In the mean time, tell us more about your situation, and please don't leave out anything.
You filled up, are you sure it was diesel and not gas? Engine oil full? Any blown fuses? Any issues on the way home last night? Tank still full? How much have you cranked the engine? (If the voltage falls to low the injectors won't fire). When was the last time you changed the fuel filters? Truck parked level or on an incline?
No start after fill up. . . that sounds scarily like gasoline to me!
2000 F-350 CC LB 4x4 6 spd Hmax: headgaskets, valve springs and stage II singles. back to H2E, Terminator Big Oil, Dp tuner, CPRX fuel system, oil bypass kit, Ceremetalic clutch, Procomp 6.5" lift, 05 Front end, 37's on 20's. Guages.
oK GUYS HERE GOES,i FILLED UP ABOUT 25 MILES FROM MY HOME AND IT DROVE FINE NO PROBLEMS AT ALL. I DOUBLE CHECKED THE DIESEL FROM THE STORE ALREADY (BOUGHT A GALLON IN A JUG) i HAVE NOT CHECKED THE FUSES NOT SURE WHICH ONE TO LOOK FOR. MY TANK IS STILL FULL. AND I HAVE CRANKED THE BATTERY DEAD 4 TIMES,THO IT SEEMS THAT I ONLY HAVE TO CHARGE THE ONE ON THE PASSENGER SIDE TO MAKE IT CRANK. SHOULD I POSSIBLY HAVE TO CHARGE BOTH OF THEM? THANX FOR SUCH A QUICK RESPONSE GUYS!!!!!!!
A "no-start" condition could be from quite a few things. Here are some discussed (some you say you have already done):
• Shift lever not in park or neutral. Try restarting while slightly moving the gearshift lever.
• Bad fuel - drain the HFCM water separator and inspect fuel.
• Clogged air filter – Inspect the filter minder, then inspect and/or replace filter.
• Air in the fuel - most frequently caused by a bad seal on the HFCM cap (or bad o-ring). Replace o-ring, lube w/ oil and re-install carefully.
• No fuel flow (clogged fuel filter, bad HFCM, clogged pump suction line, etc). First, remove secondary fuel filter, empty fuel from bowl, and then turn the key (don't start) to see if HFCM is filling the upper fuel bowl, Then, change filters or, if possible, check fuel pressure if you don't mind a little work to install a gauge (install one on the secondary fuel bowl sample port). You can also blow air through fuel lines if you think they may be plugged.
• Oil problems (foaming, loss of viscosity: too thick or fuel diluted). Check oil level for fuel dilution, inspect oil condition, maybe even change oil and filter. Definitely make sure you filled w/ the proper oil.
• Bad batteries (coupled w/ bad alternator) or bad starter (needs 500 rpm to start IIRC) - load test each batteries and test alternator.
• Bad ground or corroded terminals/wires. Check battery and charging system wires and cables.
• Bad anti-theft system or remote-start system - disconnect system and see if it starts.
• Bad ICP sensor. The ICP sensor harness can be removed and the PCM will establish a default control scheme that would allow the truck to start if the problem were the ICP sensor.
• Bad glow plugs or module. You can make a cursory check on this system if you have an inductive (clamp on) amp meter (200 A at first dropping quickly to 35-37 A is OK. Both modules should read apprx. the same.
• If possible, you can pull the ICP and install a pressure gauge to check the pressure in the “high pressure oil system”. Crank the engine and watch the pressure. You need 500 psig to start.
More things that could cause a "no-start" condition:
• Injector oil latching (or stiction). New flash from the dealership can often times help.
• A stuck or bad injection pressure regulator (IPR).
• Injector o-ring failure (or other type of injector failure).
• Bad Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM).
• Low base oil pressure (failed oil pressure regulator).
• Low base oil pressure (bad low pressure oil pump - LPOP).
• High pressure oil rail o-ring failure.
• High pressure oil stand pipe o-ring failure or the pipe itself.
• The high pressure oil pump (HPOP) stc fitting (if so equipped - 05's particularly prone to this).
• The high pressure oil branch tube.
• A weak HPOP pump.
• A bad PCM (computer).
• Bad Camshaft or Crankshaft sensor.
Charge both batteries separately. Then load test them. Then try starting. Do not crank so long that it completely discharges the batteries - it is very hard on them.
I'm no 6.0 expert, but I'd agree you have to start here. Just because the starter will spin the engine does not mean the IDM is seeing enough voltage to fire the injectors. You have to have voltage for the computer type stuff to work.
You need to watch draining the batteries because it can cause you to fry your FICM and its about 1150.00 installed.
__________________ Richard, Texas Mudder, Welders make the world go 'round
2004 Ford F250 King Ranch 4x4, Superchips Programmer, K&N Cold Air Intake,4" Exhaust Turbo Back, 20" Elite Rims, 35" Toyo Tires, Procomp 4" Lift / Skyjacker Dual Front Stabilizer, Kenwood Head Unit, Dual Capacitors, 2 Punch Amps, Custom 12's / Custom Fit Diamond Audio 6x9's in all 4 Doors / Fun: Grizzly 660 with 29x5 Outlaws, 3" Lift
Ok, I just got home from work and tried the fresh full charged batteries,and it stll wont start....But my god does it try hard,almost to the point of running ...Its puttin out alot of thick black smoke tho while it hittin..Any suggestions???
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