Remote Filter Housing
#1
Remote Filter Housing
I just found this new napa filter housing on ebay, it uses the same filter as the engine (freakin sweet) and I figured Id pass along the find. 36 dollars shipped is a great deal I think, if you wanted to do an oil bypass setup (like Im going to do) and an external transmission filter (like i will be doing)
I hope Im not gonna get in trouble for posting it here, not my auction, Im just trying to pass along the info.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
I hope Im not gonna get in trouble for posting it here, not my auction, Im just trying to pass along the info.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
#2
This is a relocation base, to which you must supply the appropriately-sized hoses.
It's not really appropriate for any other use, as a bypass filtration takes a different size filter, and transmission external filtration won't use a filter this large.
I've done some of this additional filtration already, and if you're interested, here's a link:
http://springerpop.net/F350/
Pop
It's not really appropriate for any other use, as a bypass filtration takes a different size filter, and transmission external filtration won't use a filter this large.
I've done some of this additional filtration already, and if you're interested, here's a link:
http://springerpop.net/F350/
Pop
#3
This is a relocation base, to which you must supply the appropriately-sized hoses.
It's not really appropriate for any other use, as a bypass filtration takes a different size filter, and transmission external filtration won't use a filter this large.
I've done some of this additional filtration already, and if you're interested, here's a link:
http://springerpop.net/F350/
Pop
It's not really appropriate for any other use, as a bypass filtration takes a different size filter, and transmission external filtration won't use a filter this large.
I've done some of this additional filtration already, and if you're interested, here's a link:
http://springerpop.net/F350/
Pop
Basically all Im saying is that this filter is suitable for use as an extra filter for engine oil, transmission fluid, or any other oil type liquid you would like to use it on. I just dont agree with the opinion that it is just too large to be used as a trans filter. It uses a common filter to the engine which is a very nice feature as well.
#4
If stocking commonality is your criteria, then I say go for it.
Otherwise, I'd think that the practicality of remote mounting something that size may be more difficult than smaller filters that will do the job as well. I use a number of different size filters on mine, and don't find it to be a problem.
Granted, a trans filter the size of our primary lube-oil filter will give longer service between changes, but I like to change mine about once a year (just to clean the magnets if nothing else), and a Baldwin BT111 is a third the price of a B7039. I realize the break-even is three years, and the 7039 will still be going strong, but I'm not real comfortable going that long without looking at the magnets to see if ferrous parts are beginning to show up.
Cost differences are a deal-breaker for me, too. Hoses are larger, and less flexible to route, not to mention higher cost to fabricate. Finding an appropriate mounting location is more difficult for a larger filter, too.
Finding a bypass lube-oil spin-on in that size may not be available. Bypass filters are constructed differently. That's not to say that they don't exist, because I don't know.
All I'm saying is that I believe using filters that large to do the job is less practical.
The flow rate differences will be negligible, as the filter isn't the bottleneck, anyway.
Pop
Otherwise, I'd think that the practicality of remote mounting something that size may be more difficult than smaller filters that will do the job as well. I use a number of different size filters on mine, and don't find it to be a problem.
Granted, a trans filter the size of our primary lube-oil filter will give longer service between changes, but I like to change mine about once a year (just to clean the magnets if nothing else), and a Baldwin BT111 is a third the price of a B7039. I realize the break-even is three years, and the 7039 will still be going strong, but I'm not real comfortable going that long without looking at the magnets to see if ferrous parts are beginning to show up.
Cost differences are a deal-breaker for me, too. Hoses are larger, and less flexible to route, not to mention higher cost to fabricate. Finding an appropriate mounting location is more difficult for a larger filter, too.
Finding a bypass lube-oil spin-on in that size may not be available. Bypass filters are constructed differently. That's not to say that they don't exist, because I don't know.
All I'm saying is that I believe using filters that large to do the job is less practical.
The flow rate differences will be negligible, as the filter isn't the bottleneck, anyway.
Pop
#5
#6
You know, UNTAMND, I believe you're right... Marv WAS trying to discourage people from buying this particular head for the purpose you referenced it to, and with good reason.
There is another significant problem with using a full flow head for bypass filtration that has not yet been mentioned, and that is the simple fact that bypass heads contain a very small orifice to significantly restrict oil flow to prevent robbing much needed pressure and flow from the engine's main lube cycle. In fact, the Amsoil's well-designed bypass system by itself has been known to cause unacceptable loss of main flow oil pressure when Amsoil recommended hose lengths/sizes were not followed carefully by the consumer... and that's straight from the Amsoil Tech folks. Other bypass systems have not been quite as susceptible to this issue because they are typically designed at a 5% flow configuration where Amsoil targets a 10% flow basis.
You see, these orifices are necessary so that only a small percentage of the total lube system oil flow (5-10%) goes through the bypass element. Otherwise, the bypass element would cause excessive pressure drop on the circulation system if more flow went through it, and that's because the discharge off a bypass system goes straight back to the oil sump and not up into the engine internals.
Yes, you can buy an orifice and install it in your inlet head port, but do you know what size to use? Are you willing to risk trial and error with your main engine oil circulation? You can go for it if you want to... it's your engine. However, any of us who know better will at least one time speak up and say "it's not a good idea"... then it's up to you.
Besides, after you build your own bypass head making the appropriate modifications to this main flow head (adding orifices, fittings, etc.), you would be better off to simply purchase one of several types of bypass heads that are already available because the flow design issues have already been resolved for you. MOre money, probably... but in general, you get what you pay for, and the el cheapo route often costs more in the long run.
There is another significant problem with using a full flow head for bypass filtration that has not yet been mentioned, and that is the simple fact that bypass heads contain a very small orifice to significantly restrict oil flow to prevent robbing much needed pressure and flow from the engine's main lube cycle. In fact, the Amsoil's well-designed bypass system by itself has been known to cause unacceptable loss of main flow oil pressure when Amsoil recommended hose lengths/sizes were not followed carefully by the consumer... and that's straight from the Amsoil Tech folks. Other bypass systems have not been quite as susceptible to this issue because they are typically designed at a 5% flow configuration where Amsoil targets a 10% flow basis.
You see, these orifices are necessary so that only a small percentage of the total lube system oil flow (5-10%) goes through the bypass element. Otherwise, the bypass element would cause excessive pressure drop on the circulation system if more flow went through it, and that's because the discharge off a bypass system goes straight back to the oil sump and not up into the engine internals.
Yes, you can buy an orifice and install it in your inlet head port, but do you know what size to use? Are you willing to risk trial and error with your main engine oil circulation? You can go for it if you want to... it's your engine. However, any of us who know better will at least one time speak up and say "it's not a good idea"... then it's up to you.
Besides, after you build your own bypass head making the appropriate modifications to this main flow head (adding orifices, fittings, etc.), you would be better off to simply purchase one of several types of bypass heads that are already available because the flow design issues have already been resolved for you. MOre money, probably... but in general, you get what you pay for, and the el cheapo route often costs more in the long run.
#7
Clux,
I've always maintained that if you've sufficiently clogged any filter to cause it to go to bypass mode, you've ALREADY got much bigger problems.
The reason I use filters is to be sure those "bigger problems" never arise to begin with, not to catch the products of a failure. If I load up a filter, I've got to work on the truck, no matter what.
Pop
I've always maintained that if you've sufficiently clogged any filter to cause it to go to bypass mode, you've ALREADY got much bigger problems.
The reason I use filters is to be sure those "bigger problems" never arise to begin with, not to catch the products of a failure. If I load up a filter, I've got to work on the truck, no matter what.
Pop
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#8
Pete,
You bring up something very valid, the use of a restriction of some kind when using the "stock filter" for bypass lube-oil filtration, but there's yet an additional reason not to:
The B7039 full-flow for the 7.3 is rated at 25 microns, absolute. The B164 bypass is rated at 15 microns absolute, and that translates to 3-5 microns nominal. I'm not sure what the nominal is for the B7039, and because of the decreased flow rate it WILL be better than the one already in full-flow operation, but only marginally so. What's the real gain when used as a bypass?
Better to use a filter designed for that kind of use. As I said above, there may not be a dedicated bypass design in that exact form factor.
But that, too, falls out of the O/P's commonality requirement.
Pop
You bring up something very valid, the use of a restriction of some kind when using the "stock filter" for bypass lube-oil filtration, but there's yet an additional reason not to:
The B7039 full-flow for the 7.3 is rated at 25 microns, absolute. The B164 bypass is rated at 15 microns absolute, and that translates to 3-5 microns nominal. I'm not sure what the nominal is for the B7039, and because of the decreased flow rate it WILL be better than the one already in full-flow operation, but only marginally so. What's the real gain when used as a bypass?
Better to use a filter designed for that kind of use. As I said above, there may not be a dedicated bypass design in that exact form factor.
But that, too, falls out of the O/P's commonality requirement.
Pop
#9
Clux,
I've always maintained that if you've sufficiently clogged any filter to cause it to go to bypass mode, you've ALREADY got much bigger problems.
The reason I use filters is to be sure those "bigger problems" never arise to begin with, not to catch the products of a failure. If I load up a filter, I've got to work on the truck, no matter what.
Pop
I've always maintained that if you've sufficiently clogged any filter to cause it to go to bypass mode, you've ALREADY got much bigger problems.
The reason I use filters is to be sure those "bigger problems" never arise to begin with, not to catch the products of a failure. If I load up a filter, I've got to work on the truck, no matter what.
Pop
#10
Yes, up where YOU live!!
Thank goodness, mine never sees those temperatures. Whew!
But that's a good point, and may be how the common misunderstanding about the 4R100's bypass operation came about!
Pop
Thank goodness, mine never sees those temperatures. Whew!
But that's a good point, and may be how the common misunderstanding about the 4R100's bypass operation came about!
Pop
#11
How about this particular filter housing for a transmission filter. Springerpop used a typical remote filter housing for his setup (full flow type) with what I can only find info on as being a regular filter (9gph 20 micron) The 10 dollar fl1995 filter is from what i can find, 30gph and 20micron. I think that it would work well for a transmission filter, but probly not as well for an oil bypass filter housing. Im still looking for a bypass filter with a 1.5"x16 thread, Ill call napa tomorrow. Most bypass specific filters ive seen (researching now that you guys enlightened me on the difference between full flow and bypass) have the restriction in the filter, which is a .060 hole (about 1/16") As far as the comment about hoses being larger and costing more, the hoses will be the same size, you jsut put a different aeroquip/jic fitting in the filter head and use the small 1/4 or 5/16 hose you normally would have ran. I was planning on getting highpressure hydraulic hoses made up and jic fittings for the oil bypass setup, as well as for when I did the transmission filter.
You all have made some good points, I just need to revise my idea some.
You all have made some good points, I just need to revise my idea some.
#12
#13
Marv... good point about the micron filter rating! That by itself would cause some flow restriction and pressure drop, but the orifice does complete that picture... BOTH are certainly required fr a well-designed bypass arrangement.
UNTAMND, not all bypas systems use the 0.060" orifice. I know for a fact that Racor uses different orifice dimensions dependon on the truck application and it's associated oil sump capacity. Both the LFS-801 and LFS-802 heads use only 0.040" orifice openings. The larger the opening, the higher the bypass flow, and the more increased potential there is for robbing necessary pressure/flow from the engine's main lube circuit.
UNTAMND, not all bypas systems use the 0.060" orifice. I know for a fact that Racor uses different orifice dimensions dependon on the truck application and it's associated oil sump capacity. Both the LFS-801 and LFS-802 heads use only 0.040" orifice openings. The larger the opening, the higher the bypass flow, and the more increased potential there is for robbing necessary pressure/flow from the engine's main lube circuit.
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