Dana44 TTB in F250HD
#1
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Dana44 TTB in F250HD
Looking for some ideas or opinions. Did a search and didn't quite find what I was looking for.
Would like to convert my truck all the way to 4wd eventually since it already has a working transfer case, but my 3.08 rear end gearing is an issue.
From my research, that basically rules out the Dana 50 and 60 front ends, but I have found 3.07 ratio listed for the Dana 44. About 90% of my driving is on freeways right now so the better compromise for me is to keep the 3.08s.
This leaves two options for me.
1, go with a bone stock 8 lug D44 TTB setup from a light F250 from 1980-1996, or
2, find a rare D44 solid axle from a 1978-1979 F250
Right now I'm leaning more toward option 1 because of better parts availability, lower cost, and ride comfort. This would involve some minor front end frame mods, but nothing major from what I can tell and most of it would be bolt on.
I'm not planning any kind of rock crawling or bogging or snow plowing. Its mainly an asphalt work horse/light towing mule, but I need to be able to deal with occasional snow, mud or loose gravel on inclines.
How reliable will a D44 front end be for me under these conditions? Are there any upgrades I should look at (other than D60 SAS) that could make the springs, bushings and related parts last a little better?
So far, I don't really have any strange tire wear problems with my twin I beam suspension on the F250 or F150, so I'm not too worried about that.
Also, does anyone know what sort of ride height difference there is between the 2wd and 2wd front ends in this era of F250? I'd like to avoid raising the front as much as reasonably possible. Another knock against the D44 solid axle.
Thanks,
David
Would like to convert my truck all the way to 4wd eventually since it already has a working transfer case, but my 3.08 rear end gearing is an issue.
From my research, that basically rules out the Dana 50 and 60 front ends, but I have found 3.07 ratio listed for the Dana 44. About 90% of my driving is on freeways right now so the better compromise for me is to keep the 3.08s.
This leaves two options for me.
1, go with a bone stock 8 lug D44 TTB setup from a light F250 from 1980-1996, or
2, find a rare D44 solid axle from a 1978-1979 F250
Right now I'm leaning more toward option 1 because of better parts availability, lower cost, and ride comfort. This would involve some minor front end frame mods, but nothing major from what I can tell and most of it would be bolt on.
I'm not planning any kind of rock crawling or bogging or snow plowing. Its mainly an asphalt work horse/light towing mule, but I need to be able to deal with occasional snow, mud or loose gravel on inclines.
How reliable will a D44 front end be for me under these conditions? Are there any upgrades I should look at (other than D60 SAS) that could make the springs, bushings and related parts last a little better?
So far, I don't really have any strange tire wear problems with my twin I beam suspension on the F250 or F150, so I'm not too worried about that.
Also, does anyone know what sort of ride height difference there is between the 2wd and 2wd front ends in this era of F250? I'd like to avoid raising the front as much as reasonably possible. Another knock against the D44 solid axle.
Thanks,
David
#2
My 89 has a dana 44 with the diesel engine. You can't get much worse than that, except I plow a few driveways with it too. No problems, except the balljoints are shot. I am sure they were shot when I bought it, and I have had it two years now. That's the only issue I have ever heard about them under normal usage, is balljoint wear. I noticed the parts places have what they call a "problem solver" balljoint for these models, and of course they are a little more expensive, but it may be worth it.
I just bought the installation tool for the balljoints, and am getting ready to replace mine.
I just bought the installation tool for the balljoints, and am getting ready to replace mine.
#3
Hey David, I'd go with the D44HD. Prolly the least expensive way to go if you can find one with the required 3.07:1 ratio to match the rear diff. My F250 has the D50 w/3.55's. I've gathered some parts to do the SAS with a D60 but may not go that route due to the $$ involved. My F150 has the D44 (light duty) with 3.07's and it has stood up to some drunken 4L stump pull attempts that I really shouldn't have tried. I think you gotta catch some air with a larger than stock tire to really put the D44 at risk. From your post it sounds like you're not in that croud...
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#5
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I always thought TTB was supposed to be better for getting air born because of longer travel, taller beam cross section (less likely to bend), and being independent it can take up the shock better (spreads the load across the frame better).
Um...not that I would know first hand.
I guess sagging springs on these things ended up being more of a myth in the end? Only truth I found was that the front spring shackle bushings can wear out and that might cause wheel camber problems. Ball joints are another one.
I have no plans what so ever to go away from the stock 235/85/16 tires (32" typical) so thats shouldn't be a problem either. Tires are perfect for highway and even a little mild cutting through snow as I discovered.
Don't plan to pull any stumps either, but might come in handy to be able to pull another vehicle out of a tight spot from time to time.
Do these front ends have a camber adjuster on them? I think thats standard for the ball joint setups.....
Um...not that I would know first hand.
I guess sagging springs on these things ended up being more of a myth in the end? Only truth I found was that the front spring shackle bushings can wear out and that might cause wheel camber problems. Ball joints are another one.
I have no plans what so ever to go away from the stock 235/85/16 tires (32" typical) so thats shouldn't be a problem either. Tires are perfect for highway and even a little mild cutting through snow as I discovered.
Don't plan to pull any stumps either, but might come in handy to be able to pull another vehicle out of a tight spot from time to time.
Do these front ends have a camber adjuster on them? I think thats standard for the ball joint setups.....
#6
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I found some info here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech.../Dana44TTB.htm
But they are a little short on how to identify a D44HD TTB from a D50 TTB.......
But they are a little short on how to identify a D44HD TTB from a D50 TTB.......
#7
I seriously doubt you'll find a D44HD or a D50 TTB with 3.08 gears.
The only ones I have ever seen either had 3.54's or 4.10's.
A D44HD is easy to spot. Any 4WD F250 will have either a D44HD or a D50. They never made an F250 with a lighter duty D44. The only real difference are the 8 lugs and dual piston calipers.
D44HD came with small hubs/lockouts and 1/2" studs - D50 has D60 equivalent hubs/lockouts, 9/16" studs and beefier outer axles.
The only ones I have ever seen either had 3.54's or 4.10's.
A D44HD is easy to spot. Any 4WD F250 will have either a D44HD or a D50. They never made an F250 with a lighter duty D44. The only real difference are the 8 lugs and dual piston calipers.
D44HD came with small hubs/lockouts and 1/2" studs - D50 has D60 equivalent hubs/lockouts, 9/16" studs and beefier outer axles.
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#8
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I agree its unlikely to find one used, but I am considering aftermarket gears since thats what I did on the rear anyway.
These guys seem to have the ring & pinion sets:
http://www.precisiongear.com/dana44r.htm
My understanding is the D44s go as low as 3.07, while the Dana 50 and 60 only go down to 3.54 gears.
When you say 1/2"-9/16" studs, do you mean the actual wheel lugs?
These guys seem to have the ring & pinion sets:
http://www.precisiongear.com/dana44r.htm
Application:
Bronco 78-96
F100, 150 62-96
F250 77-96
Bronco 78-96
F100, 150 62-96
F250 77-96
When you say 1/2"-9/16" studs, do you mean the actual wheel lugs?
#9
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I was expecting to be told to go with a D60 eventually. Thanks for your opinion, but as I explained earlier I can't put 3.08/3.07s in a dana 60 and I don't need the strongest axle possible.
I did think about a D61, because those can accept 3.07s, but I don't know if they exist with the correct setup (pumpkin on the correct side, with leaf spring mounts). Being more rare, I figured they wouldn't be worth it. Also was concerned about what type of brakes would fit since ford seems to be alone in the 70s an d 80s in using dual caliper front brakes. My understanding is that only chevy and dodge used the "61".
Looks like I answered my own question on how to tell a TTB Dana 44HD from a TTB Dana50. The bottom of the housings have "44" and "50" respectively stamped on them.
I did think about a D61, because those can accept 3.07s, but I don't know if they exist with the correct setup (pumpkin on the correct side, with leaf spring mounts). Being more rare, I figured they wouldn't be worth it. Also was concerned about what type of brakes would fit since ford seems to be alone in the 70s an d 80s in using dual caliper front brakes. My understanding is that only chevy and dodge used the "61".
Looks like I answered my own question on how to tell a TTB Dana 44HD from a TTB Dana50. The bottom of the housings have "44" and "50" respectively stamped on them.
#11
If you start looking at a lot of frontends, you should start being able to discern the size of the lockout hub sticking out the front. The Dana44HD ttb hub is smaller than the Dana 50ttb hub.
I also have had a question about my frontend that may be of interest. I think I have figured it out, but won't be sure till I replace the balljoints.
If you look at the balljoint listings, the lower balljoint for the dana 44HD(3850lb axle) is Motorcraft "MCS10253" part number "except with 4.10 ratio".
If you look at the other listings for balljoints, they list the ones for the dana 50ttb(If I remember this is the 4600lb axle) as part number Motorcraft "MCS10383 ", but don't say anything about the dana44 hd with the 4.10 ratio.
I did find a early listing on rock auto that seemed to suggest the the heavier balljoints from the dana50 ttb are used in the dana44HD with the 4.10 ratio. Since there are no other balljoints listed, I am assuming this is what is going to fit on my axle since it's a 4.10.
Still not sure yet though.
I also have had a question about my frontend that may be of interest. I think I have figured it out, but won't be sure till I replace the balljoints.
If you look at the balljoint listings, the lower balljoint for the dana 44HD(3850lb axle) is Motorcraft "MCS10253" part number "except with 4.10 ratio".
If you look at the other listings for balljoints, they list the ones for the dana 50ttb(If I remember this is the 4600lb axle) as part number Motorcraft "MCS10383 ", but don't say anything about the dana44 hd with the 4.10 ratio.
I did find a early listing on rock auto that seemed to suggest the the heavier balljoints from the dana50 ttb are used in the dana44HD with the 4.10 ratio. Since there are no other balljoints listed, I am assuming this is what is going to fit on my axle since it's a 4.10.
Still not sure yet though.
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I did find out that 3.91 ratio (or something close to it) is a cross over size for the differential case itself on the D44HD. The sterling for example is 4.11. Maybe there were other things that changed with lower speed ratios like 4.10?
It seems logical to go with a stronger ball joint for 4.10 gears since more stress can be assumed with more torque of the lower gearing, but would this also work as a potential upgrade on taller geared front ends? Food for thought...
It seems logical to go with a stronger ball joint for 4.10 gears since more stress can be assumed with more torque of the lower gearing, but would this also work as a potential upgrade on taller geared front ends? Food for thought...
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