Hey guys, i've determined my the issues i'm having with my '95 F150 is due to a bad stator and/or TFI. This truck has 234k on the original pieces so i'm going to replace them anyway with new ones from the dealer.

My question is how hard is this? I saw one brief write up but it was on a V8. They had to yank the distributor out, drive out roll pins and pull the gear off and such. I'm leaving for a 10 day road trip to California in 2 days from Austin, taking Route 66 in the middle of nowhere. I don't have time to mess with removing the distributor. I can take another car if I have to, but I REALLY want to be in my truck for that trip.

Anyone with a 300 replaced both pieces and was it hard?


Thanks!

-Chris

 

The TFI should be quite easy to replace. Remember to apply a small amount of Dielecric grease to the back side of before mounting and tightening the bolts downs.

The stator itself is going to involve the technique you mentioned earlier. One questionis whether or not your have checked to ensure that the Stator is definately bad before replacing it.

Have you tested the TFI module as well? If you know for sure it is bad, then replace and go from there.

Another member here can chime in about the Stator condition, but there are tests' to confirm if it's either malfunctioning or not.

Matthew

 

No you want to use thermal compound, not dielectric grease. It is for heat dissapation not current.

 

Haynes and Chilton both said for either remote or distributor mounted,
"Step 55. whether you are installing the old module or a new one, wipe the back of the module clean with a soft, clean shop rag and apply a film of Silicone Dielectric Grease to the back side of the module (see illustration 8.49"

Illustration 8.49 - Be sure to wipe the back of the ignition module clean and apply a film of dielectric grease (essential for cool operation of module) - DO NOT use any other type of grease

Both paragraphs copyright's of Haynes, 2004 publishing.
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Step 6. Coat the TFI module baseplate with a thin layer of silicone grease (FD7AZ-19A331-A or its equivalent)

Paragraph (Step 6.) copyright, 1997 publishing
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If you wanted I guess you could use some thermal compound for Computer Processors, such as Artic Silver 5 or another brand. I have also heard of another product available for automotive use that is better than dielectric grease or check with your local Ford dealer for the appropiate grease or thermal compound.

Matthew

 

You are correct on what the manuals say, however the is little to none heat dissapation to dialectric grease. Much better to use thermal compound. As you stated artic silver is what I use. Before I new better I used dialectric grease and would get shutdown. Just noticed this was on a 95 so it should be a remote mount which gets less heat.

 

Rather than change the stator, I changed the entire distributor. Took about 15 minutes to get it out and back in, and then set the base timing. It was a rebuilt, and used my old one for a core. Think it was about $60. Been a couple of years, not sure on the price.
Good Luck Frank

 

Buy a remanufactured distributor.

Chances are if you don't have the proper tools to press off the distributor shaft drive gear you'll damage it and end up purchasing a rebuilt distributor.

That is also what the factory service manual says.

In the late 80's there was a class action law suit against Ford. The engine would randomly stall but could be restarted. Ford ended up reimbursing owners if they could prove they had purchased a new TFI module and also reimbursed owners for any towing bills.

Ford determined the factory OEM TFI modules were failing due to heat from the engine.

As you stated, they eventually moved the TFI module to the fender well.

So if you ever need to replace the TFI module use heat sink compound/thermal grease on the mouiting surface for the TFI module.

 

Yeah, I also owned a '90 4.9, and it was located on the distrubutor and I couldn't understand why on earth you would want it there with the engine block heat acting as an insulator...

My '92 is remote-mounted and so far haven't had any problems with since the Driver side Fender well, sees cooler temps than left side of the Engine block...



And Yeah, just swap for a rebuilt dizzy. It perhaps would be quite easier if you don't have the tools on hand and you know it's been rebuilt to OE standards.

And I wouldn't have Guessed many user's here would have known of AS 5, 87fomoco. Great Idea!

Matthew