Maybe it's already been answered, but wouldn't it be easier to just take the parts from a truck that already has the manual shifter? From the looks it should be very similar to the shift on the OBS trucks too.

 

it was a obs shifter arm. you can use the superduty linkage but would need to make the parts on the t case. From my understanding the manual shifting t case and electric shifting ones are different

 

Hello, was looking for some ESOF answers and came across this awesome idea.
we have had several plow trucks and never had this issue before. My current project truck i am working on is a 1999 f 250 4x4 diesel 120k miles. My ESOF is currently not working scanned it got p 1867 p 1812 codes also got code for the stop brake light sensor I dont have that code # in front of me as I type this. The fuses have been checked the relays have been checked went ahead and replaced the ESOF motor didnt fix the problem. Started to test out the wires at motor test light was to ground and 4x4 motor activated as was testing pin holes for current as we moved the switch.... Did some additional tetsing seems to be the gem or the 4x4 module thats on dash wall behind glove box or radio..... any thoughts? I really liked this idea or has anyone ever wired their own 2 way switch for the ESOF????? Thanks DOUG

 

I would love to be able to just have a toggle switch in the cabin that makes the ESOF motor shift from 2 to 4H and 4L rather than the crap shoot of the OEM **** and use the GEM and all of the other crap in between. That would be a win win for me!

 

I have a 99 f350 and I had a problem a while back with the hubs having vacuum all the time. I unhooked them under the hood by the battery and plugged the line. Just locked them in manually. 4x4 work fine. The other day I go to use my 4wd and nothing. No light on the dash. I checked the fuse it is good. I pulled the two relays and swapped them nothing. Only thing is they are warm even after sitting overnight. And as soon as you pull them they click. Up until this point other than the hub issue I never had a problem with the esof. Any ideas or where I should start. It is a V10 truck.

 

Also I have 4x4 light on dash after start up. But nothing when switch is turned.

 

found this on the Dieselstop.com fourms
" Got a parts list together if anyone wants to dive in. The Ford stuff is:
F81Z*7277*BC. Boot/trim
F81Z*7210*AB. Shifter upper
4C3Z*7210*BA. Shifter lower
4L3Z*7213*AB. ****
4C3Z*7B051*JA. Linkage rod
6C3Z*7B106*A. Linkage arm
Around $325 for all. I used a piece of 6061-T6 aluminum plate, 1/4" thick, I had from another project, & the motor for a template for the holes. The rest of the bits came from Ace hardware:
(2) 1-1/4×3/4×1/16" bronze thrust bearing
(1) 1-1/4×3/4×18 gauge zinc machine
bushing
(2) 5/8×5/16×1/4" steel bushing/spacer
(2) M8x1.25x25mm mini-head flange bolt
(1) M8x1.25x25mm flat-head socket cap screw
(2-3 ea) M6 & M8 spring washers
(1) M6x1.00x20mm socket-head cap screw
The flat-head socket cap screw goes in the upper-most hole so the linkage clears. You must also cut a notch in the linkage arm to clear this bolt in low-range. For this reason no spacer is used here, instead I drilled a hole right below & tapped for the M6 cap screw to mount from the back of the plate & act as a foot. Use the spring washers to get the bolt head & spacers the same thickness. The pin on the linkage arm is welded on from the back & I had to remove most it for clearance to the case so I ground 2 deep cuts in an "X" across the back of the pin area & welded, then ground smooth. Take your time opening up the hole on the arm to fit the shift-shaft, as play will cause wear. That needs to be a snug fit. Bronze bearing goes on shaft first, then steel, linkage arm, & you should have just enough shaft left for the other bronze. Barely. Grease them all liberally as you install. The plate holds it all on. It's a slight interference-fit. "