Well came across a 100.00 dana 60 frt 2004 4.10 open diff. The long side tube is bent. I've never replaced a tube before but this looks like a good place to start, not much invested. Gonna torch out welds at case but how to get tube out with out to many cuss words. Was told to cut tube close to diff and use a ram to push out weld a plate on cut tube for ram to work against. My question is how much interference fit do these tubes have into tube. .002 or .005. Do you heat up diff and then slide tube in and wrap up everything so it doesn't cool down to quick. In wyoming not to many resources and a kinda doityourself situation. Gonna get it done but need a little tech on fit of tube. thanks from wyoming.

 

Im not real sure that I would even spend 100 bucks on that axle. Really, I might, but not certain that it would be a worthy investment.
Here is why:

Tube replacement is a pain, the press fit is tight, I mean real darn tight, and one must have or make a fixture to maintian a true / square fit. You will have to cut and "face" the tube, so you need a lathe, then you will have to machine the tube OD, as well as the diff ID to maintian the proper tolerance. If you can remove the tube without destroying the diff itself, you will have to try your luck at installing the tube without tearing up the diff, and let me tell you, this is no easy task. After this is done, you will have to verify that the tube is straight and that the inner "C" is true to the opposite side. Once the tube is straight and true so the axle can ride within it without binding, you will then be left with an axle that has a different dimension than the more desirable 78 / 9 axle. If the width is alraight then you are making progress, and them we should discuss the fact that this axle is a ball joint axle, as well as an axle with unit bearings. Upgrade the unit bearings to a conventional adjustable Timken, and you will drop 1700 bucks. Add an aftermarket crossover knuckle (no bolt on steering arms for this axle) and you sheel out another few hundred. Fortunately the hub kit comes with 35 spline outers and decent lockouts, so you wont be spending dough twice, but even if this axle was free, and you were one heak of a machinist, this axle with desirable stuff would cost more than 2,000 bucks in parts alone (not including gears or traction device) to make it a reasonable axle. Keep in mind that all of the machine work requires some heat, so seals and such are gonna be required. Man the cost just keeps adding up.
Master install kit, gears, traction device, hub / bearing kit, crossover steering knuckle, and the machine work to replace the tube would put this axle well over 3500 bucks, and the axle will still have a metric pattern.
Thinkin I would pass on this one.
Now, just cause, I like the idea, and appreciate where you are going with this, I am gonna have to find some notes to see what Dynatrac documented when they re-tubed a later axle and made it fit my 73 F100. I could not find a 78 / 9 axle at the time so I had one built. Mucho dinero!

 

Well I was thinking about this and I guess if I screw up a dana 60 this is the one to screw up. If everythingworks out it going into a truck that isn't designed for off road use. Mainly a hauler and huntin rig for county rds at most. Gonna figure out how to do it because I'm curious. My friend called and said their is a .005 interference fit. Thats tight. heat up diff to 500 degree's and tube will slide in. Wrap up and let it cool down slowly. The C on end will be done lateronce tube is set and welded. Interesting challenge , if it works great if not got some gears and axles or 100 bucks rotors and stuff.

 

Well I followed up on you comments and your correct. By the time I build to OEM I could of built a really nice axle with some upgraded C's and other cool parts. I will continue with this project but not OEM. Got the tubes out last weekend with a friend who has done this before. Was a pain but doable. Thanks for input on parts stuff catch you later. Project has been delayed due to sturgis ralley going on as we speak.