I spent the past few evenings after work replacing the wheel studs in my 60 F100 with longer studs because I'm using wheel spacers and the original studs weren't long enough. I pretty much blazed right through the first 3 wheels then, of course, on the last wheel--passenger side front(2wd)--I couldn't get the drum off!! I adjusted the "star-nut" or whatever it's called all the way in...still did not budge! Beat on it with a mallet--it would NOT move!! The interesting thing is, this drum differed from the other 3 in that it has holes drilled (look to be 5x5.5) between the existing studs. None of the other drums had these holes. I couldn't tell for sure if the studs may have been attached to the drum and the drum was being held on some other way, like via the castle nut under the bearing cap somehow?? Is this possible or do I just need to persuade it with a bigger hammer? I pried on its outer edges a lot--they would flex open some until the bar eventually slipped--but the hole in the center of the drum--where it meets the hub--never budged even the slightest bit...2 of the other wheels hung up slightly on the brake shoes, but I got them off w/o too much difficulty. Is this the most likely problem here? Any suggestions? Thanks.

 

Get the big man hammer or heat it up. Brake fluid topped off? Can you thread a bolt into it to force it off?

 

If I understand you correctly, you are trying to remove the drum and leave the hub mounted to the spindle. Correct? If so, this being a modifed drum you don't know exactly what you are working with. Try removing the hub and drum as an assembly. If it comes off you can see from the back what you are working with. I know on my '66 mustang, the studs were pressed into the drum and there is a special cutting tool that fits over the stud to cut the shoulder from around the stud to remove the drum. Just a thought, might help.

Gil

 

Tried heat and a big hammer to no avail. Took the hub off and began to beat one of the studs out and the flange broke loose from the drum. Apparently those holes that have been drilled in the face of the drum let water in between the drum and the flange and the two parts rusted together...anyway, I got all the new wheel studs in. Next project is to get the front springs rearched. Thanks...

 

Consider replacing that oddball drum?

 

I would venture to say that the drum you are talking about is the last one of an older set - the other three have been replaced. The stock and older drums came double drilled and th enew ones only have the five holes needed.

I would also venture to say that the drum has gotten so worn that the shoes have cut themselved deeply into the drum and there is a lip on the back 1.8 inch edge of the drum that didn't wear and the shoes are now set into the groove they have worn for themselves behind this lip.

It sounds like you have a soft drum and a pair of hard shoes, so the drum wore faster than the shoes.

As the drum wore, the shoes were adjusted more and more outward and cut themselves deeper into the drum. Now the are sitting in their own rut and the part of the drum on the back edge that didn't wear is holding them on.

You will need to loosen the adjustment screw all the way in so the shoes pull in as far as they will go, then the lip on the drum should slip over the shoes.

Then throw the drum away. Be sure to check the other drums for wear - there isn't much tolerance and most of drums we have have probably exceeded the wear tolerance. Replace your brake shoes with the softer linings.

 

Yes, I should replace that oddball hub, because the same thing is bound to happen again. The parts catalogs are pretty proud of their front drums though--they're about double what the rear drums cost. It was really easy removing the hub so, for now, I'll leave the oddball on. Julie, the contact surfaces of the drums look good--smooth, no ridges or lips. All the brake components look new, which indicates that those parts don't take too long to form a very strong bond if they get wet and rusty.

On another note, I'm still debating whether to have my front springs rearched or buy replacements. The problem is that my front leafs are completely FLAT. In fact, they look like they're beginning to reverse. I was just looking through NPD's online catalog and they spec 1960 front leafs as having 5 1/8" of free arch. I cringe at the sight of upcoming bumps and potholes as I've got very little travel before I hit the bump stops. Compunding the problem is the fact that I've got larger than stock tires on the truck. I prefer my trucks to sit up high--just my personal preference--I like the look of a taller stance. Any opinions on how much the arch will be decreased by after installation? I've got the I-6 engine and I'm looking to go up about 2 1/2 - 3 inches from where I am now, which would level the truck up from front to rear. I'm not too worried about steering being affected, because it looks like the drag link would actually benefit from the lift. I'm leery of rebuilding leaf packs that are composed of 50 year-old fatigued steel...question is, the leaf packs that are offered in these aftermarket catalogs--where does this steel come from and is it quality steel? Has anyone purchased these and, if so, are you satisfied? Thanks!