i thought u said ip..

anyways ya my lift pump is good. i think. fuel is comin out of the valve on top the filter.

 

What amount and how much pressure?

 

i dont have a pressure gauge for fuel.

but its comin out pretty good. like it saays a few pages back in this thread.




and also,,,,, before with the old ip it would eventually start w starter fluid,
now it only starts for a split second with the new pump.... even if the pump was bad like the old one was bad it should still continue to run after starting it.

i dont think timing got messed up, cuz i didnt take off the gear cover... so if for whatever reason the gear got unmeshed would it cuz it to not start?
and can it get unmeshed wihtout removing the gear cover?

 

I am not sure, I have never pulled a IP and have never had to do any thing but static timing.
Air intrusion is what I think the problem is.

 

I would check for power at the fuel shut off solenoid first.

Then I would loosen a couple injection lines and see if you can get the air out.
Bleeding an injection pump can take some time if the IP was dry when it was installed.
Just remember crank then let the starter cool before cranking again.

No sense killing the starter.

Do you here the fuel shut off solenoid click when you hook and unhook the wire with the key on?

If the solenoid is getting power, and the IP is getting fuel, no fuel out of the injection lines means there is still air in the IP if the IP was off a running engine.

I never really tried to get the IP drive gear to skip a tooth when removingh the IP before.
But normally it don't happen unless you remove the drive gear cover.
Even if it was a tooth off, the engine should fire, it would just run like crap.

 

Sounds like air. Try cracking all your injector lines. Not just one line-all of them.
If air is in the lines, it has no where to go. Air doesn't compress like fuel does...and the injectors need a ton (1,500 psi i think?) of pressure in order to "pop" open and let fuel into the cylinder.
When i installed my IP i didn't even tighten the injector lines on my injectors until fuel started coming out my lines. When fuel started spitting out i set them on the injectors and cranked them about 3/4 thread. Cranked some more, and eventually the truck fired up. It took me a long time...about 15 minutes before the truck fired. So-be patient and persistent.
Take your fuel filter off and make sure it's full. If not-top it off with some fuel or ATF.
Are all your wires hooked up?
Check for power at the FSS like Dave recommended.
But i think you should just be patient. Keep crankin' for 20 seconds and coolin' for 2 minuntes...eventually it should fire.

 

ok. i will try again and be more patient, im waiting for the batt. to charge now.


and yes the solenoid is clicking on and off.

 

look at the red neck gas can and try it to c if it ur lift pump is good


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BR_2Am0_UzM

 

ok. ip pump is on and working,,, thx everyone.

 

good to here

 

Good to hear!!!

 

I just went through great cold starts, rather difficult warm starts, and OK starts right after I shut the engine off at operating temp.

What I am basically pointing out is no matter how much you know and how long you have driven your truck, they can get under your skin at times.

And over time, you don't really realize how much slower starters turn.

I just finished changing mine and once again the engine is running almost before you can let off the key.

Now with the new one installed, man that old one was cranking slow, even when it was cold.

Since this is almost exactly what started this thread, I thought it was a very good place to post this info.

 

i agree Dave. i was blaming air intrusion again for the no start on the 88.now with the new starter in it, it snaps off after 10 seconds of cranking after sitting for 2 months.