No joke, as a kid I always stuck my head out the window to sniff the fumes as my dad filled up the Ford Falcon. I like the smell of Rislone, regular motor oil, WD-40, really just about any oil, even used crankcase oil. After reading that Marvel Mystery Oil has wintergreen I bought some just to check it out--great smell. Also, new books, especially the ones with the heavy glossy pages, and fancy magazines, new three ring binders and other plastic stuff smells great. Paint smells good. Ummmm, how about new tires? Ah, yes Beer too. Even a faint odor of Skunk from a distance is not bad, but I must say one smell I can't stand is new carpet.
INLINE SIX POWER! '95 F150 XL
300 Cubic Inches of Low RPM Truck Torque! And twin-I-beams too!
"Drive a stick young man! There'll be time for automatics when you're old and unable."
>Nothing beats the pure sweet smell of 100 octane leaded
>avgas.
>
>Jim
I am afraid I haven't had that pleasure. However, there is a really hot Dodge Dart that goes through my neighborhood and when he went by my Ford-engineeer neighbor inhaled deeply and said, "ahhhh, racing fuel." I must admit, it did smell quite nice.:-)
Oooh, Oooh, Oooh. Just tried out an old bottle of CRC 5-56. Anybody have this stuff. It says it stops squeeks, loosens rusted parts, etc. In using it on my hood hinges yesterday I noticed it (like Marvel Mystery Oil) has wintergreen in it. But a somewhat different smell.
I`ve been using the Purolator Pure One,its $6.00 at pepboys.But if the filter media really is the same,I`ll just go with the FL-1A for $2.77 at Walmart.The FL-1A doesnt have a silicone antidrainback valve like the pure one,is this a disadvantage? I think the 400S has silicone though.The FL-1A does have the bypass valve in the ford-specified location,I guess thats desirable.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 09-Dec-02 AT 11:06 PM (EST)]Well, I am finally trying to post some pics of these two filters. Can anybody tell me the easy way to do it? Thanks...Ken.
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06 F350 PSD CC/SB FX4 Lariat w/ Torqueshift, Readylift SST 2.5" Leveling Kit, Toyo 285/75-18 AT's, Edge Evolution, MagHyTec Diff and Tranny covers, Dieselsite Coolant and Tranny Filters, Rancho RS 9000XL Shocks, FS2500 Oil Bypass Filter, Magnaflow SS Exhaust
"Only when the tide goes out do you discover who's been swimming naked" - Warren Buffett
I have a '98 Ranger, bought new, and a '00 Explorer bought in '05.
I change their oil myself every 3K.
Pennzoil 5W30 / Fram Tough Guard (Ranger)
Pennzoil 5W30 / Motorcraft (Explorer)
The Ranger is a bear to change the filter. Can't get it from underneath because the starter's in the way/ I go from the to top and have to "finagle" it out, while burning my hands on the hot exhaust manifold.
I tried using Motorcraft filters, but they collapse under the band filter wrench. A "cradle" type filter wrench is not an option due to close quarters.
NASH (Loved that '71 'Cuda) Well, for one thing, there is no need to burn your hands on hot exhaust manifolds! Drain the oil, hot, but let the engine cool down before doing any more work. The block warm, but not HOT, is fine and by then the exhaust manifolds will be cool enough to touch.
I wrap my exhaust system and it saves and cuts unneeded underhood engine heat, and heat soak conditions off of the starter, transmission bellhousing / pan area as well. Heat, over time, is the enemy of those components especially when we can get 100+ degree summer days here at times.
I still say the easiest way is from under the vehicle to access the oil filter. If the filter wrench crushes the filter canister a bit, so what? It's being removed and tossed, anyway but you simply need to break the seal, so you can spin off the oil filter.
I have a '98 Ranger, bought new, and a '00 Explorer bought in '05.
I change their oil myself every 3K.
Pennzoil 5W30 / Fram Tough Guard (Ranger)
Pennzoil 5W30 / Motorcraft (Explorer)
The Ranger is a bear to change the filter. Can't get it from underneath because the starter's in the way/ I go from the to top and have to "finagle" it out, while burning my hands on the hot exhaust manifold.
I tried using Motorcraft filters, but they collapse under the band filter wrench. A "cradle" type filter wrench is not an option due to close quarters.
Anyone had similar experience?
Which engine in the 98 Ranger????
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99 Ranger 4dr 4x2 4.0L 5spd auto 3.55L/S Payload pkg2 tow pkg
Details are trifles but trifles make perfection & perfection is no trifle
(Ben Franklin)
Our signature is a sign of a job completed autograph your work with excellence
"I still say the easiest way is from under the vehicle to access the oil filter."
Hmm.
I have dropped an oil filter in the engine compartment, and it grounded against the starter and burned a hole in the filter.
I may not have enough clearance to get a ratchet & "cradle" in there, plus I'd be afraid of grounding MYSELF against the starter...
I am familier with the 3.0V6 and it's "odd" design of having the starter below the oil filter.
Here's a trick I have used numerous times. With the (front wheels) truck up on ramps, and the oil pan bolt removed, start the engine for 5-6 seconds or so. This will pump immediately the oil in the filter out, and drop it into the block and pan area where it will drain. The engine is still warm, so you have plenty of oil still protecting moving engine parts for that 5-6 seconds.
Then put some paper towels, and some plastic over the starter. You then cam remove a nearly empty and light oil filter, and any residue drops are quickly caught. You protect your starter, block and frame area from having oil drip everywhere, when trying to spin off a full oil filter.
I've done this for years, and have enjoyed quick, clean and easy oil changes.
(Still would like to speak with the Ford engineer who designed that oil filter / starter placement, though...)
I did notice that they put a funnel right below the oil filter mount in an attempt to keep oil off of the starter. That's not my problem, though. My problem is getting the filter itself - full of oil or not - out of the engine compartment. I do it from the top, but I wish I could do it from the bottom. I'm afraid of grounding something against the starter.
I did notice that they put a funnel right below the oil filter mount in an attempt to keep oil off of the starter. That's not my problem, though. My problem is getting the filter itself - full of oil or not - out of the engine compartment. I do it from the top, but I wish I could do it from the bottom. I'm afraid of grounding something against the starter.
Once you get the vehicle with the 3.0L Vulcan engine up on ramps, pull the negative battery cable & tuck it out of the way so it can't spring back & make contact with the battery post, then you can work the oil filter without the chance of arcs & sparks.
You could fashion several layers of aluminum foil into a U shaped funnel to fit under the oil filter mount, to catch & drain away into your catch container, any oil that drains or drips out.
I sometimes have to use a strap wrench with a length of emery cloth, grit side towards the filter, to get enough bite, to get the Daughters hand tightened stuck on Kia oil filter off.
Some of the Pureolator filters have the by-pass valve on the wrong/closed end of the filter, not a good idea to have it there on a inverted filter mounting, as any debris settled out there could be sucked past the filter media, through the open by-pass valve & back into the engine & the main bearings are the first inline to get that debris!!!!
So opt for a filter design like a Motorcraft, that has the by-pass valve in the filters open/mounting base end, like Ford so wisely designed it.
More thoughts for pondering.
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99 Ranger 4dr 4x2 4.0L 5spd auto 3.55L/S Payload pkg2 tow pkg
Details are trifles but trifles make perfection & perfection is no trifle
(Ben Franklin)
Our signature is a sign of a job completed autograph your work with excellence
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'95 F150 XL
PureOne 24651 vs.Motorcraft FL-820S
;-) 
