Are you showing a Check Engine Light on the dash, which would indicate that trouble codes have been generated by the computer? That's always the first place to check. I'm wondering if you might have a fuel starvation problem. When the engine dies, will it start right back up again (only to die again a few seconds later?) or do you have to wait some time before it will restart? Have you checked the fuel pressure? Have you verified that the fuel pump is working? You can do this by listening at the fuel filler with the cap off, when the key is first turned on the pump should run for 1-2 seconds to prime the system. It's possible that the Inertia switch has been triggered and needs to be reset (if you don't hear the pump running).
Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
If you're not getting any codes, then resetting the computer is pointless. However, there are some codes that can be generated without triggering the Check Engine Light, though any serious enough to keep the engine from running should trigger the light. Here's how you can check the codes without a scanner:
Checking the fuel pressure is rather important, there could be other reasons why the engine may not be getting enough fuel to keep running (if that is indeed the problem.) And just because you have a new fuel pump doesn't mean it's working properly. The Fuel Pump Relay might not be triggering it correctly, the inertia switch I mentioned earlier might not be allowing it to run at all, the Fuel Pressure Regulator might be stuck open and not allowing the system to build enough pressure, even the fuel filter could be plugged. Any of these things, or even a combination of them could be keeping the system from operating at its needed 38-40 psi of fuel pressure.
And of course I could be totally off-base and it could be an electrical/ignition problem...
Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
Hi all.
Actually, we don't have results. We not tried all yours idea... but something is in our mind... time to swap the truck with a 302 engine... and the idea is gaining.
Or, someone know is a 4.0L engine with carb exist?
So... the real problem actually it's to find time for to do the rest of test that we have to do.
A 5.0 swap isn't too difficult, but there are a lot of little details involved. There are of course swap kits consisting of mounts and header to make the job a little easier (I made my own) and going carbed is simpler than staying with EFI but if you're up to the task, the EFI wiring isn't all that bad to deal with. I made mine all the more difficult by using a Mustang harness rather than buying an aftermarket engine swap harness, and am paying for it in wiring hassles that I didn't foresee...
Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
I agree with you about the fact the little more difficult to swap an EFI engine. It's why we found an 302 carb engine. But we won't to find the problem for the 4.0L engine before, just for challenge.
I hope that you get this before you switch to the 302--which would be pretty sweet! I have a 1993 4.0L V-6 and had the same problem where it would start and then it would start to sputter and die. It turned out that the throttle body was dirty and needed to be cleaned with SeaFoam. I believe that you can pick it up at any auto parts store. My brother had the same problem on his 93 ranger and you just spray it in the throttle body and let it sit for a little bit and then start it up. Don't worry when the exhaust is a bit white and smokey-it's just burning that crap out. Cleans it out really good. If you don't want to go that route then just take a good look at the throttle body and if it's all gunked up then just clean it out to make it run smoother. Hope this helps.
Check the fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel injector rail. Your description of the way the engine runs for a few seconds and then dies makes me think the fuel pump is not running after the engine starts. Some vehicles have a pressure switch that disables the fuel pump if the oil pressure is not maintained. If this switch were defective, you would get fuel pressure to the injectors, and they would have enough pressure in the fuel line to inject fuel for a few seconds. Just like what you describe. The passenger cars had a multifunction box that ran the fuel pump, and the cooling fans. It checked that the engine was running, either oil pressure or ignition pulses, and would disable the pump if it thought the engine was not running.
Where are you posting from?
tom
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Check the fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel injector rail. Your description of the way the engine runs for a few seconds and then dies makes me think the fuel pump is not running after the engine starts. Some vehicles have a pressure switch that disables the fuel pump if the oil pressure is not maintained. If this switch were defective, you would get fuel pressure to the injectors, and they would have enough pressure in the fuel line to inject fuel for a few seconds. Just like what you describe. The passenger cars had a multifunction box that ran the fuel pump, and the cooling fans. It checked that the engine was running, either oil pressure or ignition pulses, and would disable the pump if it thought the engine was not running.
Where are you posting from?
tom
I think you have the best information since the beginning... I already ear this kind of information but not with this precision. I'm glad to know that. We will check if we can do something with this... I think yes!
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