Here's the problem: Rear door, extended cab. Not getting the "click" when the door handle is pulled. I have the panels off and the mechanism looks to be operating properly.
Does anybody know what I should be looking for?

John

 

Does the rear door have an inside door handle and does it funtion properly?

 

Yes, there is an inside handle. The mechanism is functioning, but it seems like it is not pulling enough to release the latches. The mechanism is going its full travel.

 

Do you see any type of adjustment mechanism in the assembly?

 

I was just thinking that. Maybe the cables stretched enough to cause this. I'll go and try a slight adjust.

 

Were you able to adjust it?

 

Does it open from the outside? There's that child - proof feature that keeps the door from being opened from the inside....it's right above the latch on the inside of the door.

 

+1 on that little square child proof lever in there. It's actually on the outside of the door at the jamb.

 

Looks like the lock for the lower latch is frozen. The cable is extending when the door handle is pulled but the locking cam is not moving which won't let the latch turn away from the nader pin. Sprayed with penetrating oil but as of this morning it is still stuck, probably needs more soak time.

The passenger side was getting hard to open, sprayed the lower latch with penetrating oil and it is now much eaisier to open the door. Time to get some grease into the mechanism.

Thanks for the help!

John

 

Hey John, Did you get your door to work?

 

I had the same problem with my upper latch on both doors about a week apart. Turned out to be a broken cable housing end on both of them. Very very very common problem. Here are some videos I made about how to fix it without going to the stealership.

Fix broken cable with bicycle brake adjuster - ford car truck van door won't open - stuck latch youtu.be/7Ta7yx26qwM
How to remove Ford rear door panels with/while door stuck shut: youtu.be/3tAdn3vXZqg
How to open stuck truck, van, or car door latch with broken cable: youtu.be/yfeQGMvsoSg
Broken cable housing repair (Extras): youtu.be/Xi1js3_RebQ

This is the old video I did showing how to fix it with a piece of plastic tubing, but the bike cable adjuster is much better. Or you can just buy one of the kits.
ford super duty rear door wont open part 1 of 3: youtu.be/_Bv4JNyAWQg

 

Bradxray is right. I had the same problem. This is a common problem because the manufacturer used cables instead of steel rods to actuate the latch release mechanism inside the rear doors. The cable end ‘stay’, which anchors the door latch release cable to the latch release mechanism has disintegrated, fell off, loosened, or broke. From the door handle there are two cables that actuate the ‘dead bolt’ mechanisms. One upper, one lower. When you pull on the door handle, the cables (very similar to a bicycle brake cable) just flex, flop around, or slide thru the release mechanism anchor without having any effect on it. What you need to do is climb into the back seat, remove the door inside facia, lift up or cut away the clear plastic sound barrier, find the upper and lower ‘dead bolt’ actuators, reach in with your hands and manually pull the actuator levers to pull the ‘dead bolts’ out of the door frame and release the door. Once the door is open and swung out, you can see where the cable end ‘stay’ should lock it into the ‘dead bolt’ release mechanism. Remember there are two, an upper and lower. Order a “8 ENDS Ford Door Latch Cable Repair Kit for F-series, E-series, Ranger, Expedition, Excursion, Navigator (Repairs Four Cables - 6 Standard 2 LOCKING CAM)” About $14. Install on the end of each cable, secure to the ‘dead bolt’ release mechanism, check that the release mechanism levers do pull the ‘dead bolts’ into the top and bottom of the doors when you pull on the door handle and your done. Reinstall the inside door facia and it’s a wrap! Good luck.