going from bad to worse, fast
#31
Hi again!
Looks like you are makeing some great progress - flamethrower - good idea.
If you have a 12 volt negative ground system, there are a couple thingsa that could be hooked to the coil.
The negative side of course goes over to your distributor. Second, as Old mentioned, there could be a lead for a tachometer.
The positive side there are two possibilities: First, is the power input from the ignition switch (providing ignition power - on a 12 volt system this wire usually has a ballast resistor inline as well); and second (and I have seen these connections wired in a number of locations) there should be another wire that runs to the "I" side of the starter solenoid. That can be connected at the ignition switch (which is where you will usually find it - simply for "wiring cleanliness") it can be connected at the positive side of the coil (IF you have a 6 volt system or no ballast resistor), or it can be spliced into the wire running from the ignition switch to the coil (ignition power) with the ballast resistor.
Here's a picture that may make it a little clearer. In the diagram the wire running to the "I" terminal is spliced in just south of the ballast resistor - heavy red wire.
Other than those three, you don't need anything else.
PS This is for my truck with a one wire alternator and hot starter button.
Looks like you are makeing some great progress - flamethrower - good idea.
If you have a 12 volt negative ground system, there are a couple thingsa that could be hooked to the coil.
The negative side of course goes over to your distributor. Second, as Old mentioned, there could be a lead for a tachometer.
The positive side there are two possibilities: First, is the power input from the ignition switch (providing ignition power - on a 12 volt system this wire usually has a ballast resistor inline as well); and second (and I have seen these connections wired in a number of locations) there should be another wire that runs to the "I" side of the starter solenoid. That can be connected at the ignition switch (which is where you will usually find it - simply for "wiring cleanliness") it can be connected at the positive side of the coil (IF you have a 6 volt system or no ballast resistor), or it can be spliced into the wire running from the ignition switch to the coil (ignition power) with the ballast resistor.
Here's a picture that may make it a little clearer. In the diagram the wire running to the "I" terminal is spliced in just south of the ballast resistor - heavy red wire.
Other than those three, you don't need anything else.
PS This is for my truck with a one wire alternator and hot starter button.
#32
Yeah there definatly is no Tach, so outside of taking the wire harness apart is there a way of checking to see where these wires go? I am thinking it is the "I" connection spliced into the wire running from the ignition switch to the coil (ignition power) because there is a ballast resistor. Again is there a way to test this?
#33
Yes, you gan get an "El Cheepo" multi meter and test for "continuety."
What you will do is disconnect the wire at the "I" position on the solenoid.
Take the multimeter and set it to "0 ohms" (the ohms symbol my look like a little upside down horse shoe - greek letter, Omega). Briefly touch the two leads together and the needle should deflect.
Now, at that setting you can touch the ends of any wire and the needle will deflect if you touch the other end of that(the same) wire. So, touch one lead of the multimeter to the wire that was on the "I" post and the other lead to the end of the wire in question. If the needle deflects, it is the same wire (or it is connected to that wire).
You can do this to trace any wire on your truck.
What you will do is disconnect the wire at the "I" position on the solenoid.
Take the multimeter and set it to "0 ohms" (the ohms symbol my look like a little upside down horse shoe - greek letter, Omega). Briefly touch the two leads together and the needle should deflect.
Now, at that setting you can touch the ends of any wire and the needle will deflect if you touch the other end of that(the same) wire. So, touch one lead of the multimeter to the wire that was on the "I" post and the other lead to the end of the wire in question. If the needle deflects, it is the same wire (or it is connected to that wire).
You can do this to trace any wire on your truck.
#35
#36
Ok, I did the continuity test and it looks like it is the one off of the "I" terminal of the solinoid but the only thing is that when I was doing the test I had the one probe on the wire connected to the "I" terminal and was going to put the other probe on the wires I am trying to figure out and accidently tapped the engine and it jumped. I then tapped it on the choke arm of the carb and it jumped also. I still think that this is the wire and I am going with it but I couldnt figure out why it would jump at the other two points.
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