I asked for recommendations in a separate thread about what kind to use. I want a display programmer. Something like a DASHDAQ. I defer to you on what would be a good affordable ($500 or less) programmer that could help as I tune and customize a little more as I go.

 

DPF R would be in that cost range. Reliable.


but you would need something like the dashdaq to read your temps..

 

You can do something like an SCT Livewire. That will allow for custom tunes and the ability to monitor. It will cost a bit more but the tunes are night and day compared to a dpf-r

 

Update & Questions:

Installed Motorcraft fuel filters. Unbolted & dropped the entire exhaust system after the down tube. The exhaust sensors that plug into the exhaust are dangling and I have a buddy with a full exhaust kit with the DPF delete about an hour and a half from me. I'm pushing a P2453 code. Truck starts and runs

If you read above, I had the DuraLast fuel filter on. I changed the oil and had to drain 3qts to get it to the appropriate level. Someone suggested that I change my oil again because it was possible that I had diesel in the oil and that was what caused the excess.

Questions:
1.) should I change the oil now that the Motorcraft filters are installed? (I'm betting that's a "yes")
2.) can I drive without an exhaust on for the hour and a half to my friends house?
3.) will my truck go into regen mode and melt the underside of my truck if I do drive?
4.) after I install the straight pipe exhaust, how long do I have before I need to plug in a tuner that will stop the regen process?

 

2453 is because you have the sensors disconnected.

At this point, if you have verified that your oil level is way over full then I think I would attempt to drain some off. Change it after you do the complete tuner and straight pipe install.

I think you could drive it but not sure how far you would get before it just starts to dump fuel down the exhaust. Is there any way you could get your buddy to come to you or at least come and tow your truck instead.

You would need to download the tune to the truck immediately after the straight pipe install. Otherwise you will throw codes and probably hit limp mode on the truck plus dumping a bunch of fuel.

 

I am about to order a tuner. I don't believe that I'm going to be playing with tons of different settings on it but I know that I want one with a dash display so I can monitor codes/temps/etc. I'm currently looking at the H&S Mini Maxx tuner without pyro on Amazon for $915.
Am I correct in thinking it will:
It will stop the regen cycle, allow me to set different tune packages for horsepower & economy & tow functions. Display any codes. Display temps (no?).

Basically, will I need any other tuner or display system to delete the DPF and be problem free?

 

Yes...it will allow you to see temps and codes. Plus changes settings.

 

Make sure it is indeed a "race" tuner. I believe some Mini Maxx's either allowed a full egr and dpf delete while others do not. You do not need the pyro connection because the 6.4 has it's own factory pyro that the Mini Maxx displays.

 

don't agree with this...if your oil level has increased due to fuel dilution , your oil which was 5W20 has been thinned out quite a bit and fuel will penetrate into the metals preventing oil to properly lube metal parts. you need to drain and refill all the oil.

 

Understood. The truck still has difficulty starting. I have to have air in the line. Does anyone have helpful hints in Lay-Man's terms about how to bleed that air out. If anyone suggests taking it to a shop please include approx price for the suggested work to be done. I'm thinking that I need to YouTube how to bleed air out of the Schreidder valve. Will I need any special tools or equipment to bleed the air out? Also, any help at all with what to watch for during the process would be welcome!

 

Scrader valve at the fuel cooler. Just let it dump into a bucket till the bubbles are gone.

You don't have to run the motor. Just key on. There are videos out there.

 

Delete post

 

Alright, I have some questions. I'm sure others will utilize this post in the future as well.

When bleeding the air out of a 6.4L, I bled the Schrader valve and it is out of air bubbles. I then loosened the banjo bolt and turned the key to activate the LPFP. Obviously I spilled fuel all over. My question arises with this:
I saw online how to tap a banjo bolt with a thread to allow a metal hose fitting to spin on and bleed this high pressure line too. How do I unscrew this banjo bolt that has been drilled and threaded through the top and then screw in the original banjo bolt without reintroducing air into the system? (If this is completely confusing then YOUTUBE "6.4 Powerstroke Air/ Fuel Bleed Tool" and meet Ronald.) I hope this makes sense. How to bleed the air out, disconnect, and not let air back into the system in the process.

 

My DPF is deleted and I installed the Mini Maxx Tuner. Wow! It's awesome. I'm still having trouble with air in my fuel lines though. Even after driving it for awhile if I let it sit and then come back to it. It will crank and turn over but die quickly. I then bleed the air from the banjo bolt behind the shrader valve and I have air every time. I cannot find any leaks. Does this air not get pushed out while it is running? Is it trapped in the fuel lines and just needs to be completely bled? Help me understand what's most likely happening.

 

You have a leak somewhere. I would remove the lower filter again and reinstall.