So the truck dropped off my latest project last week ... a 2006 F-250 6.0L w/ 35K miles. It was a theft recovery out of Texas .. one where they got most of the cosmetic stuff and then drove it around Mexico. Nothing on or about the engine was messed with.

Anyway ... the batteries were dead when it arrived, so I just put new fresh batteries in. It will turn over fast, but will not fire up whatsoever.

I checked all the fuses, etc. ... everything is there and good. When I try to start it, and the engine is turning over, the oil pressure guage takes a sec or two to move up ... but it does move. I did notice the oil is real dark and thick ... like, it does not drip from the dip stick.

Any ideas on where to start??

 

First thing you should do is tow it where you will be having work done on it,then drain the oil and see if it was tampered with. Start looking for codes.

 

i bought a theft recovery mustang not too long ago and all i can say is that you would be amazed at the stuff they will steal off a car or what they will do to it. i would just start at one end and work your way to the back. electronic stuff usually gets taken, so check all the wiring harnesses, fuses, etc. on the one i bought they had unplugged every connection inside the car. dome light, dash, speedometer, couresty lamp, etc. didnt take a single thing inside the car but unhooked everything. they even took a door panel and the gas door off and put them in the trunk. so dont over look something just because you think theres no way someone would do something that stupid. they probably spent a good day or two working inside the car and the only thing they took was the rear bumper cover and hood.

 

Well ... so far, I've drained the water from the seperator. Wasn't much water, mostly diesel and it was clear. I took the engine-mounted fuel filter cap off and the filter was pretty clean too. The check engine light does not stay on either.

I've checked all the wiring & connections and nothing seems out of place. There is some mysterious aftermarket wiring unde the dash (not upfitter related) that is tied into the ignition; however, I traced it all and nothing about it seems to have the ability to interfer with the engine starting. I just have no idea what the wiring could be for ... it's like two relays, a couple of fuses, and a lot of taps int the ignition connector.

A friend had the bright idea to spray ether into the intake ... we did and the engine would "try" to start then ... but still would not. My guess so far is that something is not letting the injectors fire for some reason.

Where is a good place to get an inexpensive scan tool?

 

With the batteries found dead, you could have a bad FICM.

Most autoparts stores have code readers they will let you use.

 

Interesting ... I'll get on this tomorrow!

The batteries have had multiple "deaths" I'm sure. So maybe the FICM is fried. But, if the FICM is fried & replaced w/ another, how does it get reflashed if the truck doesn't crank and can't make it to the dealer?

 

W/ a tow truck.

Definitely change the oil. Can you check the upper fuel bowl while cranking to make sure it is full of fuel? Also, do you have a gauge to watch the ICP pressure (take out the ICP sensor and install the gauge)? It must read 500 psig (high p ressure oil system) to fire the injectors. You might try starting it w/ the ICP sensor disconnected.

I would also quit using the ether - it can be damaging to the engine.

 

Mark, first thing I thought of was the FICM too. Mine was replaced under the 8 years/80K miles Emmissions warranty...$0 zero deductible.

 

Morning update ...

Pulled the connection off the ICP ... made no difference. Engine spins over, glow plugs heat, fuel pump runs ... but still not firing up.

Got a code scanner ... only code stored was a P2285 and that was thrown 'cause I pulled the connector off. I could clear the codes and nothing would be thrown until I pulled the ICP connector off again. However, the batteries have been disconnected numerous times, so any codes are probably long gone.

Haven't checked the oil pressure switch at the ICP yet ... I dont have a guage. Any recommendation on where to get one quick that would have the proper fitting for the ICP hole?

I'd hate to throw the $$ at a FICM and it not be the problem ... if I got one from a salvage yard off the same year model, would it be plug 'n play?

 

Continued ...

Got the FICM out ... it's has International markings with a 5/9/2005 date (truck is a 2006 model year).

The harness looks like the "redesigned" type ... I did not see any chaffing in the trio of connectors area.

Is there anyway to test the FICM now that I have it out; also, is there a way to test the #304 high current relay? I'd hate to buy another FICM just to have the truck still not crank.

I do not have the tools to tap into the ICP sensor hole and test the oil pressure =(.

Funny thing so far, I tried to crank the engine w/o the FICM installed and it turned over and acted the same as when it was installed.

 

I believe you need special equipment to test the FICM. There is an educational thread on the FICM in the Tech Folder.

 

The FICM can only be tested by International, Ford Dealerships do not have equipment to test them but before you condem it. With the FICM installed do you hear the injectors cycle? If so then more than likely the FICM is ok. Have you checked the cam and crank wiring? Are you showing base oil pressure on the cluster gauge when cranking? Also all relays can be checked by energizing the coil side and listening for the click and then using a dmm to check the continuity between the terminals.

 

Yes, base oil presure is showing on the cluster when trying to crank.

What should I listen for to hear the injectors cycle? I'll plug it back in and listen if it will help confirm the problem.

 

You should hear them cycle as soon as you turn the key to the "on" position waiting for the glow plugs to go off. Its hard to describe what they sound like so listen to this youtube video. Its the buzzing sound you hear before the truck fires up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uy_0dHhjgtk

 

OK ... per the instuction, I tested the #304 high current relay .. test OK.

I reinstalled the FICM. When the ignition switched to the "ON" position & with my finger on the injector, I can feel it "click-click-click-click". However, when the key is turned all the way and the engine is turning over trying to start ... I feel NO clicks at all.

As far as hearing it ... there's a lot of buzzing going on: the fuel pump, something in the right hand side cowl area, etc. I could'nt really hear the injectors, but I could feel the clicks for sure.

So, does this rule out the FICM? I really need to test the oil pressure ... just dont have a tool that would read over 100 psi. I did notice that it takes a few times of trying to start the engine for the dash oil pressure guage to finally move up to the center.