Repairing non working rear window on Lariat easy way
#16
#19
#20
best post in a while
i got into swapping the struts and shocks yesterday and decided to tackle this sliding rear window issue that i have had for about 3 years now. wish i wouldv'e seen this post before. i've got the 2004 FX4 which has the solid leather rear seat. if you follow this video it should take 5 minutes. it takes a few good pulls on the passenger side to break it free. pull straight up by leaning your shoulder into the back rest. only thing different i would suggest is to continue to lift up on the passenger side for leverage to break the drivers side free as there appears to be two clips on that side. i felt for the bump behind the felt and lightly tapped on it with a hammer while i used my other hand to work the switch. first shot and i was amazed that the window opened. these trucks are notorius for having leaking rear windows (car wash or heavy driving rain) and i thought for sure the window motor was shot due to water getting down behind the seat. vacuumend the track and lubed the cable up real good with a q-tip and some air tool oil. the window works like new.
thanks guys, this tip probably save me a few hundred.
thanks guys, this tip probably save me a few hundred.
I have a good idea how moisture is getting back there...I did all the custom work and posted a vid on how to remove your back seat. In the back there are 'pressure relief' vents in the back. They aren't the heaviest plastic vents so they open with a simple door closing.
It could be quite possible that they are allowing some type of condensation into the rear of your seats and since there is a 'back drop' behind the seat you would never see it unless you removed it like me to install an amp...it now makes sense why there was some buildup on the amp terminals....
Check out my vid and pause it at 1:37, you will see a small black shadow just to the right of the amp..there is your 'window of oportunity.'
<IFRAME height=349 src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/KeUcR0faIMw" frameBorder=0 width=425 allowfullscreen></IFRAME>
Hope this helps!, And I'm Going to try it out and see if tappin' it will get it goin again!
It could be quite possible that they are allowing some type of condensation into the rear of your seats and since there is a 'back drop' behind the seat you would never see it unless you removed it like me to install an amp...it now makes sense why there was some buildup on the amp terminals....
Check out my vid and pause it at 1:37, you will see a small black shadow just to the right of the amp..there is your 'window of oportunity.'
<IFRAME height=349 src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/KeUcR0faIMw" frameBorder=0 width=425 allowfullscreen></IFRAME>
Hope this helps!, And I'm Going to try it out and see if tappin' it will get it goin again!
#22
#23
Sorry but that didn't work for my 2011 Lariat. Motor change? The dealer replaced the switch and it's working. Stupid thing is that I had the switch out and could have easily replaced it but it would have cost me more than my $100 deductible (ext warranty) for them to diagnose and not fix. Thanks anyway.
#24
Worked! 2005 Lariat
This thread is now 5 years old, but your tip worked for me today. It took about a dozen pretty hard whacks with a hammer. I was about to give up, but with a really good pop while pressing the switch the window zipped open like it was brand new. Added some silicone lube to both sides of the cable like mentioned by some and wahoo! Thanks krane operator.
#25
Neat trick but agree with other poster who advised not to use WD40 to lubricate cable. WD40 is primarily a solvent and water displacer (ie WD). The lubrication effect comes from the solvent and is short lasting. It will actually attract moisture. Should use a true lubricant such as silicone, grease or graphite based product to lube cable.
#26
The knocking and banging worked for me as well. I bought a new motor and cable set but I could not figure out how to release the cable ends from their fits at the window pane. I came on the site to see if there was a post on how to replace and was directed to this thread. I gave a couple of knocks and off it went without issue. Lubricated the track and cables with Silicone lube and it operates great. We will see how long she goes. At least I have a spare if needed. Rhys.
#28
#29
#30
- Remove back seat.
- Remove felt liner
And the whole motor and cable is exposed.