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  #31  
Old 02-19-2011, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by william_04_x View Post
Then I could see down into the hole where the ICP is located.. A long pick is really useful to disconnect the IPR and ICP connectors..Pull that harness out of the way once they're disconnected.. It sounds like a lot of disassembly, but this stuff comes off quick..
So I worked on my ICP today. I removed all the items in the original post, including the FICM, the FICM bracket and the injector clips.

Now I'm at the point where I need to disconnect the IPR and ICP connectors.
Does anyone have any tips on how to do this, realistically??!!
It was ****ing cold out, and I don't think my hand is that big, but jeez. I've read so many posts where this part gets a one line mention, but for me it's ruining my day.
Does anyone have any photos or videos they haven't shared yet?

Is the long pick mentioned above like a cotter pin puller?

I haven't even got the IPR connector disconnected yet.
Any help appreciated!!
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  #32  
Old 02-19-2011, 09:33 PM
william_04_x william_04_x is offline
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Something like the upper tool shown here is what you need to unclip the connectors. A strong light source so you can see in there is a must.

Click the image to open in full size.

Be patient. You will get it done. Look closely at your new ICP sensor to see how it connects to the harness. Getting the end of the pick behind the harness connector clip, and pulling it out, will free it.
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  #33  
Old 02-19-2011, 09:44 PM
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Thanks for the reply.

I'm psyching myself up for tackling this tomorrow ... just like it's the big game
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2003 SuperDuty 6.0L 4x4 CC SB - 325,000 miles - Rolled off the line 02/20/2003 - 17mpg
1997 Explorer 4.0L 4x4 6V OHV - 169,000 miles
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  #34  
Old 02-20-2011, 06:09 AM
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The connector is a PITA if you have never done so before, you just have to feel for it.
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  #35  
Old 02-20-2011, 02:05 PM
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Got the IRP connector off. With a thin needle nose pliers and a fresh attitude it took about 1.5 seconds. Felt like an idiot thinking about the grief it gave me yesterday.

Now I'm faced with the connector for the ICP and I found it's covered with a wrap of insulation/heat protection. Does this slide back, or should I cut it off? I've tried to slide it back along the wires to reveal the connector but no joy. Anyone had this on their setup?

I can see the sensor itself just barely peeking out from the end of the insulation. Looks manageable once I get past this point.

Click the image to open in full size.
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  #36  
Old 03-22-2011, 03:59 PM
eh844fd eh844fd is offline
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icp sensor replacement

Just change mine and I used a 1/2 drive -1 1/6 deep well socket, with swival and a 10 in extention. It is still hard to get to but it work very good. All else went back as you said. Thanks form the pics, if it weren't for them I don't think I would have found it.
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  #37  
Old 06-07-2011, 08:50 PM
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Working on replacing my ICP sensor and I unfortunately snapped off one of the mounting bracket bolts for the FICM and it appears that it also doubles as a bolt to the valve cover. Does anyone know where i can find a part number for this bolt or do I just have to got to the dealer for it.
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  #38  
Old 06-07-2011, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattison57 View Post
Working on replacing my ICP sensor and I unfortunately snapped off one of the mounting bracket bolts for the FICM and it appears that it also doubles as a bolt to the valve cover. Does anyone know where i can find a part number for this bolt or do I just have to got to the dealer for it.
Ford or Navistar dealer. I've got a lot of part numbers but not that one. There are two different valve cover bolts so make sure they get one with the stud on top..
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  #39  
Old 06-07-2011, 09:53 PM
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Changed mine last week, Joy, Joy!!!
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  #40  
Old 06-10-2011, 09:56 AM
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Got my ICP sensor replaced definately not the easiest job. Also, I couldn't have done it with out everyones help by sharing tricks, tips, and especially pictures. Thank you all for sharing. The 3/8 fuel line worked great. I didn't have to cut down the socket I just used a 1/2' drive universal joint (taped) and 10" extension. Thanks again!!!
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  #41  
Old 06-12-2011, 12:35 PM
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Good to hear and that is why we like FTE.
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  #42  
Old 06-25-2011, 06:30 PM
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Ok fellows here is the easiest way to do it. Going from the top is too hard, too time consueming and too much has to be removed. Get all your ducks in a row before you start. Get a 1/4 drive ratchet, short extension, a 10mm and a 13 mm socket, a long 13mm open wrench. You will need to get a old 1 1/16 box end wrench. I got one made in china at a flea market for .50 Cut it off with a zip grinder. 6" long over all length. Have your truck at a height that you can roll around under it comfortably. Get your trouble light so you can spot every thing. The secret is positioning your body so you dont have to be double jointed or long arms. I started on drivers side with my legs pointed toward the right side. Look up and you can see 10mm bolt back on heat sheild. Dont try and look up at while you are working. Just simply run your arm up and let it curve around the trans, (not uncomfortable) Take 10 mm bolt out. Next take your 13 mm and losen the 13 mm bolt behind the left exfhaust pipe. Thats why you need a long open end. Once you brake it loose, take your ratchet, with short extension, 13mm socket and take the bolt all the way out. Little tight but just keep your body in a comfortable working position. Next move over to the right side and reposition your body, locate the 10mm bolt on the other side of heat shield, reach up and take it out, slide sheild back or to one side. Now take your light and look up and you can see the IPC valve. Now reach up and you can feel the latch, pull up on it a little and at same time gently unplug wireing harness. Take your 1 1/16 box end wrench and losen sensor, screw it out with your hand. Get your light and inspect plug end, make sure it is ok, clean off any oil, careful dont let the insulated sleeve fall off. Get your new valve screw in in by hand, (not hard to get your hand up there) Tighten it with your wrench. Snap in wireing harness. You dont need to see it, you can feel the tang on the sensor and latch on wire, not hard. Next replace the heat shield. Might give you a little trouble getting first 10mm bolt started because you cant see and have your arm up there too. If it does give you trouble, find a old 10 mm bolt cut the head off and just screw in in a couple of turns with your finger. Then set shield on stud and you can move over to other side and start the other bolt, (dont tighten) remove stud, start other 10mm bolt, now take a little slicone and stick in your 13 mm socket, place bolt in it and carefully start it. Be careful because you are going in at a slight angle and you dont want to cross thread it. After you are sure it is started in straight, tighten it up, tighten other 2 bolts. If a 71 year old man, with arthuritis, can do it in a hour, I know you young fellows can do it faster. Sounds more complicated than it is. Lots to take off if you to from the top, and still tight getting your hands in there.

Last edited by john11139; 06-25-2011 at 06:49 PM. Reason: mispelled
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  #43  
Old 08-13-2011, 08:11 PM
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Thanks for info on p2245

Hi, I just wanted to thank you for the step by step instructions on how to change the icp sensor. It may have been easier to do it from the bottom with a lift, but I don't own one. My arms are not long enough without one.
Your helpful instructions made it possible for me to do from the top and I just wanted to thank-you. Much appreciated. Jim
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  #44  
Old 08-14-2011, 06:20 PM
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You dont need a lift. Just Jack it high enough that you can work comfortably. high enough that you can move your arms. Be sure and set it on jack stands.
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  #45  
Old 09-06-2011, 08:22 PM
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Thanks for info, saved me alot of headaches. I did it from the top using a ground down Craftsmen socket. I see others saying they didn't need to grind the socket down but since i grind stuff for a living i couldn't resist. To reinstall i bent universal all the way to one side and used regular old scotch tape to wrap around joint so it stayed that way. i put 3 tiny pieces of tape at front of socket to hold sensor in place during entry. Then a little finesse put it right in the hole. Hardest part for me was getting new connector connected. I noticed the new plug is a little different from the old one and does not come with color coded wires. It also has yellow rubber piece that seals the connector after its seated. The old one had nothing like this. You have to keep old connector handy to use as a guide during crimping since wire colors do not match.

I chose to do it from the top as soon as dealer told me 90% of the time they sell the sensor and harness at same time since both are known to fail. I just couldn't see me being able to strip and connect new harness from bottom. Plus it rained cats and dogs all day here today. Ill finish it when sun comes up and find out if it was all worth while.
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:22 PM
 
 
 
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