Great info, thanks. Subscribed.

 

2003 F350 6.0 Dually 4x4

Ok I did mine two days ago. Here is my 2 cents on how to do it.

First, go under the truck and remove the heat shield. The last bolt you can get to connecting the heat shield, is easiest from the passenger side and its a 10mm. Use a 4ft extension and boom the shield is off. The other two bolts are easy peasy from the drivers side. The top one is a 13mm and the lower is a 10mm.

Unless you have a skinny, multi jointed arm, that is 6ft long, go in from the top, to complete the job.

2nd, remove all the items listed above in the other posts, from the engine compartment. (I didn't remove the bolt in the back of the block.) Also, unhook the connectors from the ICP and the other sensor and pull back the wiring harness. Go over to the driver side of the truck and with a flashlight, shine it in behind the turbo and down a bit. There you will see the ICP, plain as day.

Use a 27mm deep well socket, with knuckle, with a long extension and snake it in there. Take out the old ICP by hand once loose, then put the new one in, by hand, then tighten the new ICP with the ratchet and extension.

Although I baught the 27mm wrench and deep well socket and was ready to cut them down, I didnt have too. Once that heat shield and other components are removed, its a two minute job.

VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!! Even though you dont have too, disconnect the injector connectors in the back, so you dont break one, while leaning in on the motor.!!!! I broke the furthest one back and now I have another problem to deal with.

If I had to do it again, I think it would take 30 minutes or so. Ok, an hour or so with a few beers.

 

Just to add a little to this post. Autozone has a semi-deep 1 1/16 socket for 7.99 that works great. It is a 6 point 1/2" drive but fits great. No need to cut it down. I use a 1/2" wobble and long extension. ICP sensor comes right out. from top after degas bottle and ficm are out of the way.

 

Ok, I just attempted this nightmare!!!. I read everything I could from different forum posts. I had my game plan and tools and was willing to give this a try. I have never done any work on a diesel. My mechanic experience is spark plugs, brakes, filters, etc. So I was a little hesitant, but wanted to save the 230.00 of labor the dealer wanted to charge me. Purchased the updated ICP sensor with harness for 140.00 on eBay.

It took me 4 1/2 hours to do. Some of the things I struggled with were

The Degas bottle, I removed the passenger side tube and then basically moved it to where the air filter was on the side. That seemed to work fine.

FICM - That damn thing has bolts in the tightest places. Plus removing the electrical connectors was nerve racking. Its like do I squeze on them or put a flat head on them to get them disconnected. There is a clip you can press that releases them, but its tough, not a lot of room there. After I got that off, I then removed the bracket, again tight quarters. I then removed the two back glow plugs connectors.

At first I'm like where is that damn ICP at, I see this heat shield down there and I'm like oh great, am I going to have to cut that. I grabbed some needle nose and pulled on it and the heat shield sleeve released and pulled back and now I could see the ICP.

I was able to remove both connector barely with my fingers, since the conector was on top. This was a relief, mine looked good so I didn't use a new wiring harness that I bought with the ICP.

So my biggest issue was, getting my damn cut down 1 1/16 6 sided socket on the ICP. For the life of my I couldn't get it on. It wasn't lining up and I wasn't getting the right angle. I played with this for about an hour. The problem I was having is that this heat metal shield was barely touching my socket from the side, so I wasn't getting the best angle to put the socket on. I then went under the truck and see if I could remove the heat shield. After about 30 seconds, no freaking way.

So this was a big help for me. I took a golf shaft, but you can use some pole and basically pounded the heat shield back about a 1/2 to a 1nch away further from the ICP. After doing this, I then had no issue putting on my socket, plus it gave more room in the area. I removed the ICP and then replaced the new one with the 3/8 gas line tube from Auto Zone. That worked great, just remember the tube goes on the inside. Took me a bit to figure that out. I thought it was being pulled over the top. I know, I'm a DA.

After tightening it down, I then put on the ICP connector the other sensor and I thought I was good and realized I forgot to put back on the heat shield sleeve. So I had to remove the connectors again.. Now I was getting ++_ing pissed. Got them removed heat shield sleeve in place and put back the connectors one. I'm just praying that I haven't pulled some wire loose from the connector.

Put back on the glow plugs, FICM and was nervous about those connectors. I hope they stay. I just worry about when your pulling on them or pushing on them etc.

Then had a fun time getting that ### air cleaner box back in.

I tried to ask if somebody new how to clear codes. So I didn't worry about this. I figured what the heck, go for it and see what the engine light does.

I then went and started it and it started right up. The engine light went right off and seems to be idling great and took it for a spin and seems a lot better.

After about 4 hours, I wasn't sure if saving the money was worth it. I'm still 50/50 on it. My hands all bruised, getting off and on the truck a million times. Just keeping my fingers crossed that all the connectors stay that way, because its seems the problem is fixed.

 

At what time did the ICP move from the rear of the block to the passenger side valve cover? I never bothered to look where mine is located, my motor build date is December 10 2003

 

9/23/2003 .

 

Sweet...! At least something on my 04 isnt a PITA.

 

I've read the whole thread because I'm planing to replace my ICP. I thought mine was under the turbo but I just found out I have mine on the valve cover. I have a 100803 build. So I have a round EGR cooler? Is that build date considered a late build or early?

 

10/08/03 is a late build truck

 

Also you have the square EGR cooler.

 

Thanks for the good news.

 

Ok, Now I'm starting to feel better . Thanks.

 

The square cooler is the one that fails way more often than the round cooler (which you can't use). You need to monitor the ECT/EOT relationship closely.

 

I thought it was the other way around.

 

Nope, sorry. Round = good; square = not so good.