1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Stout 460 Motor mounts

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  #16  
Old 07-10-2009, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by monsterbaby
NEVER run solid trans mount with solid motor mounts unless you enjoy replacing bellhousings or cases.

That is a big no no.
uhh? You sure? What about when a motor plate is involved?

Cause not from what I've seen solid and solid is fine. But there is always a connection from the block/bellhousing junction to the roll cage.


I've always heard/seen that mixing and matching is bad.

Delrin Motor mounts and poly trans mount seem to be ok though...
 
  #17  
Old 07-10-2009, 05:47 PM
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Thanks for the info, for the street, I like the idea of the Autofab's. It has the strenght and the urethane. Also like the idea for the "chain limiter". Is there a sweet spot or ideal location for the chain limiter on the engine?Great stuff guys.
 
  #18  
Old 07-10-2009, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ChaseTruck754
uhh? You sure? What about when a motor plate is involved?

Cause not from what I've seen solid and solid is fine. But there is always a connection from the block/bellhousing junction to the roll cage.


I've always heard/seen that mixing and matching is bad.

Delrin Motor mounts and poly trans mount seem to be ok though...
Dang type-o's and time limts on editing posts That red not in my post was not supposed to be there.

As for the chain limiter - there are multiple ways to do it. The point is - IF the motor monuts break - you don't want the engine moving/flopping around under the hood due to the torque/roll created when you get on the gas - or in cases like what I do - when you hit a jump or set of whoops. Ask me how I had my hood dented upward from underneath in the 1st truck I ever owned

Anyways - the chain should go from the block/motor mount bracket on block to the frame/motor mount bracket on frame or around the motor mount. It should be pretty common sense to figure out based on my description of what you are trying to avoid above
 
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