I bought another F250, this one a 1988 with a 7.3 and I've not got it started yet. I took out the glow plugs so it would crank easier but I can't get fuel to the injectors. I've got fuel pressure from the mechanical fuel pump to the filter and from the filter to the injector pump but I only get a trickle from the injector lines to the injectors. I unplugged the wires to the injector pump and I can hear each one click when I plug them back on. Could the injector pump be so bad the engine won't even start or am I missing something?
Have you checked that the glowplugs are working? How long does the Wait to Start light stay on? Also you are probably going to have to crank it for a while to bleed any air out of the system (no more that 20sec at a time to keep the starter good).
All the glowplugs test ok. I removed them to make it crank faster. I'm getting plenty of fuel to the injector pump but very little out of the injector lines. I've cranked it a 100 times more than enough to purge any air out of the injector pump. I can hear the two relays on the injector pump click when I hook up the 12v wires to them but does that mean they are working? I find it hard to believe the injector pump could be so bad it wouldn't produce enough pressure to start the engine.
Even with a known good injector pump not very much fuel comes out of the pipes when cranking. The click you hear at the injector pump should mean that the fuel shutoff solenoid is working. OK all the glowplugs are good but are you getting power to them for about 10secs before you engage the starter?
You should have about 5 PSI at the fuel filter when you crank the engine.
You should also be getting at least 1/3 pint of fuel in 10 seconds of cranking.
Hook all the fuel lines back up, then remove the schrader valve from the filter bleed valve.
Hose to pressure gauge for first test.
Then remove the gauge and use the hose to route the fuel into a container for the volume test.
I had the same problem with mine and its still not running. My pump started leaking so I swapped on another one. After that I could get fuel to the injectors and smoke out the tailpipe but couldnt get her to start.
So I checked the compression and the results were scary!
2 - 280
After getting these numbers I new It wasnt going to start.
So I pulled the drives side head off yesterday and found the all the cylinders were clean except for 8 which was pitted and rusty as if it hadnt been getting oil.
So you might want to check the compression and see if the truck even has enough to start.
Im in the process of getting a 6.9 for mine, I couldnt believe how much more power it had then mine when I drove the other truck!
I put the glow plugs back in and they are getting power. But it doesn't crank over fast enough to start. I swapped the starter with my 87 F250 6.9 and it didn't change anything, it still cranks too slow. It has very heavy duty battery cables and they are in good condition. I've cleaned the ground cables to the engine as well as the battery cables. It's got two good strong batteries but it doesn't take much cranking to run them down. It's like it's sort of hard to turn over. If it had bad compression it should turn over easier, not harder. What could be making it so hard to turn over? I'm baffled.
on the injection pump the in line has a hose and fitting thats scews in to the pump take out and see if theres trash in the fitting.if there is then the pump is coming apart in side.its been along time since i have worked on idi but i thinking you need to try that.
Actually I think it's the opposite. I think the cylinders are dry and when I finally got a little fuel in there it started to turn over faster. But I still haven't got it started and it runs the batteries down too fast so I only have a small window to try it.
Check the passenger side positive battery cable clamp.
Is it getting hot when you crank the engine?
A common thing is corrosion inside the clamp where the wire conductors are.
That corrosion can not be seen from outside the clamp, but you can see the results.
Baked and discolored insulation on the cable, smoking hot terminal, or even swelling in the insulation close to the clamp all indicate corrosion inside the wire.
That results in low cranking amps/volts, even with two brand new 1000 amp batteries.
That will also kill a starter if left that way for many start attempts.
Dave, good to hear from you. Both 850 batteries and I've tried it with my 87 F250 with it's two batteries hooked up with jumper cables. I think like I said, the cylinders are dry and when I get a little fuel in there it starts spinning faster. I still think there's something wrong with the I/P as it's only putting a very little bit of fuel out of the injector lines. Just because I can hear the relay in the pump click does it really mean fuel is passing thru? What in the pump can I check to see if it's working?
try replacing the batterie cables and cleaning where the ground cables connect to the block i had a problem just like that with mine i never checked the fuel coming out of the pump but my truck wouldnt turn over fast enough to start and the batteries would drain down really fast i replaced my cables and all is well now she fires up right away everytime
I've already cleaned all the grounds and it didn't help. I can take the wires from my 87 and try them but they look 3 times worse than the wires on the 88. They are swelled and bare at the ends and the 87 cranks fine. The wires on the 88 that won't start look to be in excellent condition with no swelling, cracking, or burnt look. I still think it's the dry cylinders from lack of fuel.