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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2009, 08:47 AM
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g_k50 g_k50 is offline
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One thing, my 1990 service manual shows the Bronco axle as having a flange where the ujoint bolts to the axle instead of the ujoint clamping condition shown in your video, my axle looks the same but I know that it's not the orginal axle. You can see the axle tag in my Garage, the build date is December 16, 1988, which doesn't make any sense for it to be in a 1990 truck. Can you get a shot of your axle tag?
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2009, 09:41 AM
alxsnmr alxsnmr is offline
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Broncos before 1990 had a yoke rather than the flange mounting. I agree with getting another transfer case. They are about 70 lbs dry, not the easiest thing to lift in and out but can be done. The axle is best to drain the diff and then take the cover off and observe where the slop is in the diff.

Your AOD may just need the TV cable adjusted so that shift points are correct for throttle position. There is a youtube video available to show how to adjust the cable from an auto repair video. Click on the link and it will show you the part of the video on adjusting the TV cable for the AOD transmission.

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Stock 1978 F250 Custom regular cab 4x4 with 351M and 4 spd.

1991 Bronco silver anniversary, 5.8L EFI, E4OD swapped for C-6, custom trimmed rear fenders finished in rust.

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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2009, 11:36 AM
fordbroncodave fordbroncodave is offline
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ok so if i adjust the shift linkage on top of the plenum for the transmission that should take care of the transmission problem?

the wobble on the output yoke on the transfercase could just be tightened with an impact wrench or won't it matter?

the rear is still sloppy, but not long ago i took the dif cover off and sprayed it all out and cleaned the magnet off. there was no metal on the magnet and the gear oil looked pretty clean yet. still changed it anyways. its been 6000 miles since it was done, and the truck had 123000 on it when i bought it and now it has 129000 on it.

it currently has 31" tires on it but previously it had 32"
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Old 07-09-2009, 11:59 AM
helirich helirich is offline
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On your shift issue from 3rd to OD. This is common with the AOD. Listen carefully. First, verify that you have a trans oil cooler. If not, get one. Second, when you are driving around town shift directlly to drive, NOT OD. Then when you get up on the highway over fifty to sixty, shift to OD. IF your getting off the highway, shift back to drive. IF you follow these suggestions, you will get alot more use
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90' Bronco, 351, MSD Ign., SS 3" exhaust,
38" x 15.50 R15 Dirt Grips, 14" x 15" Alcoa wheels
6" lift w/ cutout flares, 40 gal. fuel tank
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2009, 12:09 PM
fordbroncodave fordbroncodave is offline
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i am already doing that. saves the weak gear.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2009, 12:31 PM
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g_k50 g_k50 is offline
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I checked my axle with the trans in neutral, it has the same amount of slop.

It has the flange also, I was mistaken in my previous post.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2009, 03:36 PM
fordbroncodave fordbroncodave is offline
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ok so here is what i found.

the red bracket holding the 2 shift points on the side of transmission was loose. so i tightened it.

then i went on top of the engine and adjusted the cable. i just unsnaped it and the spring went where it wanted and i snapped it back in.

took it for a drive, seemed ok but it went into shifts really hard with a jerk. it also seemed to take more effort to shift up another gear.

so i pulled over on the side of the road and moved the spring to 1/2 of what it was. same situation, just with less jerk. i could hear the transmission making a bad humming noise in reverse.

so i went to 1/4 of the original full length and there were i left it. 1st and 2nd are quick and 3rd is really slow, kicks in at 25mph and goes til 45-48mph before overdrive goes in. with the adjustment in this position, i have not heard any clunking noises and it took care of that other problem i had earlier when it would bring the engine speed down.
so is it safe to say where it is at now? is it going to hurt anything? what else do i need to test?
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2009, 03:56 PM
alxsnmr alxsnmr is offline
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I think the video stated to leave the TV lever in the position that basically low pressure. It is spring loaded to pull it back into the low pressure position. Then to go to the top of the motor and release the cable in its holder then adjust to the point that the cable slack was taken up but not putting tension on the cable. So that basically the cable started pulling on the TV lever as soon as you opened the throttle. One of the levers should have been the gear selection lever and the one that moved with some resistance to return to its rest stop point is your TV lever. As long as you didnt tighten them to where it was difficult to move them you should be okay. The transmission doesnt require much torque to hold the bolts in place.

Is that what you did before readjusting on the road?
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Stock 1978 F250 Custom regular cab 4x4 with 351M and 4 spd.

1991 Bronco silver anniversary, 5.8L EFI, E4OD swapped for C-6, custom trimmed rear fenders finished in rust.

2009 Fusion SE 2.3L 5spd Red/black cloth n leather
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2009, 04:10 PM
fordbroncodave fordbroncodave is offline
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the only thing i did down bellow on the transmission was tighten a bolt on the bracket. the only one holding the bracket to the transmission. didn't touch anything else.

on top i left about 1/4" of spring showing but before it was pushed in all the way and there was no way to tell if there was a spring on it or not.
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