I have a 1966 Ford F600 and I am not sure what size engine is in it.
the number on the intake manifold is C5FE-9425-F.
a little further over held on by 2 flat head screws is a tag that says 5L24
Under the block on the driver side are the numbers 40 DIF.
I know that DIF means Dearborn Factory, but what does the 40 mean?
right next to the oil filter housing adapter is a tag that reads _K28.
I am unable to make out the first digit. It sort of looks like the Fish symbol standing on end.
Help please,
Thanks,
Erich
Hi, thanks for your help.
The Vin# is F60CE831004
1966 Ford F600 Oil Tanker.
Bought from either Charlotte, NC or Raleigh, NC in 1966 and had an Atlas PL three compartment 1500 gallon Petroleum Tank with Lookheed pump installed.
So the truck was of course bought as a Chassis-Cab configuration for multiple applications.
By the warranty plate: the engine should be 330/332 2v carb medium duty.
Transmission is NP4235 4 speed.
Rear differential is Eaton 13802 2-speed.
I think at some point the engine was replaced. This truck was very well cared for by it's only owner. Yearly Hazmat/emissions inspections were conducted.
I can't be sure what the third digit in C5_E-9425-F is. It looks like part of the letter has been chipped off. It could be a T or an F. We should check into possibilities.
What does the 40 DIF on the driver side under block mean?
The valve covers have been painted so I can't get any info from them. And the engine is installed in the truck and in perfect working order so I can't get to some of the block marks.
Let me know where else I should look.
I really want to know what size the engine is. If it was replaced with another 330/332 or larger.
Thanks,
Erich
Erich, One thing that you might do is grab a 14 ga. white house wire about 6-8" long. Remove one of the front spark plugs, and the coil wire. Have a friend turn the engine a couple rounds with a socket on the crank nut. Poke the wire in the hole. With a Sharpie resting on the manifold against the wire, measure the length of the mark left by the rotation.
That might help getting started by knowing the stroke.
John
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Hi, Thanks again John.
I was thinking about that today using a dowel.
I have what I need to remove a spark plug, but does it need to be torqued back it?
I haven't done anything like that with anything other than my 73 VW Westy when I was in college.
Do you know off hand what the stroke distances are for the FE engines? I have seen it somewhere but I can't remember where.
Happy 4th of July,
Erich
Thanks guys,
I am going to measure the stroke with a dowel rod today.
It will be a good start. I am also replacing the Oil filter adapter housing, when I replaced the oil pressure sending unit I found that someone had used some kind of sealant to rig a crack in the housing at the bottom of the Oil Pressure sender. I managed to get a good deal on a new one....I don't like any surprises when it comes to the oil system. I lost my 1985 Merc. 300sd that way. I certainly don't want to have to replace my perfectly fine engine in my truck because some fool rigged something instead of repairing it. This truck is no Volkswagen of the 60's and 70's. I plan to continue to baby it.
My wife is jealous, but she's coming around.
Anyway thanks again,
Erich
Erich, Use a dowel if it makes you happy, the reason I recommend a white 14ga. house wire is because it is smaller than a wooden dowel and the black mark left by a Sharpie shows up well. The dowel that I used once drug and rubbed, the wire with a very slight bend in it does not.
John
__________________
In the cool still quiet hours of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
the two speed axle is easy. If you are trying to pull or are loaded down, the orange plunger should be pushed in. That is the lower ratio on the rear axle. Up is the higher ratio. It is sort of like overdrive in a way, except you essentially have 8 gears. I mostly drive it in high. here's how it works. I start the truck in neutral., then I push the clutch pedal in, at this point you can select rear low or high, then I put the floor shifter in 2nd gear and drive as normal. The 1st gear is a granny gear which to my understanding is a very low gear that is used to get the truck moving when loaded and is not needed under normal driving so I always use 2nd-4th and downshift while slowing but do not include the 1st/granny gear. It doesn't have synchronizers for 1st(granny gear), so you can only put it in that gear when you are at a complete stop. The other day I pulled my old 1985 300sd out of the shed to get rid of it and I used granny/low rear speed and I really couldn't even tell that I was pulling anything. With that eaton 2 speed rear end and the np435 4 speed you really have a great pulling combo.
In addition, if I was pulling a heavy load for a distance I would start in 1st/granny with low rear end gear and progress through 4th and then I would push in the clutch and pull the oranger plunger up tyo shift into 4th/high rear gear. It is in a way like over drive.
The truck will do 65 or better in 4th/high but with heavy duty tires and leaf springs it isn't a comfortable ride. But this truck wasn't really built for comfort, it was built for pulling and utility.
Thanks again,
Erich
Thanks for the link. I had no Idea what split shifting was. I don't think I'll try it.
I'll probably just stick to High rear setting unless I'm going to pull........I already said that in the post at the link/thread above.
Thanks again,
Erich
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