What oil for break in?

[Argess]

I use 20W50 Castrol, or a good equiv brand for break-in, then switch to 15W50 Mobil 1 Synthetic after about 1000 miles. I do this because I am under the impression that rings seat better with mineral oil, although I am aware many cars come from the factory with synthetic these days. Before the 1000 mile change, I pull the filter (and change it) somewhere between 300 and 500 miles, then cut it open (actually, now I use a re-useable filter that I can clean) to check for any crap. I pre-lube the cam when I put it in with cam break-in lube and use a similiar assembly lube for the bearings when I assemble the engine. I oil wrist pin surfaces where they fit into the rod and piston with motor oil and wipe the cylinder wals with oil as well. I don't immerse the piston/rod assembly in a can full of oil as it's very messy....LOL.

[RapidRuss]

Yeah I do also cut the filter open for the first few thoudand miles to keep an eye on anything that might be going wrong inside.... i have also found out over the years that the WIX filter work great..and are made better...and catch smaller Microns..

[Argess]

Well shoot....I meant to give you credit RapidRuss as your method is basically the same as mine.....sorry about that!

This is the "cleanable" filter I use:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SOF-209-512561/

Scary price.....I think when I bought it, it was less than 1/2 that price. Anyway, it's nice to check what you find inside. When you cut a standard filter apart, bit's of metal and paint can get inside and you wonder "Is that from cutting it apart, or did that come from the oil pan?"

This is the one I use for long term use:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRM-XG8A/

I prefer the HP1, but it's a special order from any of the auto shops where I am.

What's your WIX P/N?

[Putt]

The standard Ford V8 filter for the FE and most other older V8s is the 51515, there is a longer version if you have room that will hold another 1/2 quart, I "think" it is 51794.

[MeanGene427]

Originally Posted by RapidRuss

he had told me one day in my shop that nothing I had on the engine stands would pass his emiision test at the Station...

Well that sounded like a bet to me !!

Remind me one of these days I'll tell ya a good one about the old NOX device we had to use out there back in the 70's...

Yep, I had a little fun with one, when I had the 427 in my '77 highrider F250 4x4- set it up with plain-jane C4 heads, a little 275-500 solid, and the Autolite 4300 off my '70 351C Mach1- (which always passed reeel clean). It passed at about half the allowed values for the '77 351M
Then lit the 14x36.5's up from a 35 mph roll in 3rd leaving

I think I still have one of those #*&@ NOX setups somewhere out in the shop- it was hilarious, as a lot of them had you duct tape the sensor to the radiator hose- real clean & durable installation- not. I think my '69 Mach1 still has the little sticker in the windshield- as do the '69 and '70 Boss 302's I take care of- except they're "EXEMPT". I do remember the local Ford dealership doing a rather brisk business in 289 HiPo no-vacuum distributors and fender emblems about that time- and lots of "EXEMPT" stickers

The oil thing isn't that difficult, most of the suppliers have a lot of info on their sites, as well of a lot of other sites- and the GF-4 spec paper is out there, too. Just have to watch the labeling on your favorite snake oil to make sure they haven't switched it to the GF-4 on you- the right oil for our dinosaurs is the niche market, not the mainstream- most of the stuff on the shelf is the late-model GF-4 spec. As you said, gotta do your homework- and keep checking those labels before you buy